Welcome to the most active of the forums Clasico - you'll have problems keeping your kids out of the drivers seat tho' !!!!
This list has been posted before but might help
Oberoi
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The basics of the R170 are the same as the W202 - C class (same
engine/trans/brakes/diff/suspension.) so a Haynes book (3511) is
handy(no kompressor inf.)-- there is no manual in hard copy for the SLK but copies of Benz WIS disks can be found on Ebay - I got the set of 2 - never use them - dreadful to navigate but may help one day
>>>>>>>> Transmission -change fluid between 30-50k is good as insurance (jerky first couple of cold changes - normal)
>>>>>>>> Coolant change is vital - every 3yrs - use Benz coolant - cheap
>>>>>>>> If it starts throwing codes/running rough - Maf is first suspect.
>>>>>>>> Oil type air filter might cause Maf contamination - minimum benefit
>>>>>>>> Oil separator can be cleaned to ensure no oil gets to Maf - easy
>>>>>>>> Starting/stalling - look at crank pos. sensor or cam pos. sensor
>>>>>>>> Brake pads, easy - Brake fluid flush at 2 yrs - easy cheap job
>>>>>>>> Engine mounts are oil filled and can go at 140K kms+ - quite easy
>>>>>>>> Drive belts (2) at 100k kms - 10 min job - belts cheap
>>>>>>>> At 100+ k kms, consider the lower front susp. rubbers - knocking
noise when braking hard (Dealer job)
>>>>>>>> Any noise from engine at start up is likely to be belt tensioner
brgs (2) - $30 fix - easy- Idler bearing is bought as a complete unit (easy fix but $60)
>>>>>>>> Kompressor runs until engine heats up (can feel noisy)- otherwise
cuts in at about 2300 rpm - (pre face lift models)
_____________SLK SPECIFIC________________________
>>>>>>>> Peeling console paint - all 6 colours are avail. - easy and perfect
$40 fix.
>>>>>>>> Shocks might be shot at 120k kms+ - easy install -KYBs - $300 USD from Tirerack, really worth it
>>>>>>>> IMPORTANT - use short wheel bolts in tool kit if fitting the
emergency spare wheel - using std wheel bolts will cause serious damage !
>>>>>>>> Important to keep PSE dry (pneumatic pump for central locking etc) - RH side trunk - under jack in foam jacket - Usual problem is a leaky trunk seal or aggressive hose washing - some guys wrap in plastic or mount upside down.
>>>>>>>> The K40 relay sometimes has an issue with 2 dry solder joints -
again fairly easy fix by checking and re soldering
>>>>>>>> Noisy diff/transm. sound is nearly always tyres -aggressive tread
is bad news - many posts on this. Soft tyres also aggravate the noise -you can tell when tyres need air by the sound.
>>>>>>>> Roof has 5 hydraulic rams - oil level inspection RH side in trunk - unusual to have to have to top up- generally reliable.(ram seals fixable) Any problems with roof - check switches first - Lube all hinges with silicone spray and cycle roof regularly- (lube 4 locking hooks also)
>>>>>>>> Clean rubbers where roof joins and lube with Krytox grease (dupont) (dont use ordinary grease on rubber) Lubing the rubbers will get rid of nearly all creaking - notice how quiet your car is after washing or rain
>>>>>>>> Rattle behind seat is usually 2 rubber blocks fallen out where window touches the parcel shelf (in trunk) -1 minute
>>>>>>>> Lights behind heater controls can be changed by pulling knobs off
>>>>>>>> Lights behind speedo cluster is fiddly but do-able -2 large 15 small
>>>>>>>> Headlights can mist up after washing (they have to breathe)- silicone bead down vert join on lights is cheap invisible fix - 2 min.
>>>>>>>> Loose indicator stalk is a remove steering wheel job - quite easy 2
bolts for airbag and 3 for stalk - large allen key for st/wheel (IMPORTANT - disconnect battery)
>>>>>>>> Door trims can creak/armrest come loose - easy fix - remove trims & re-glue armrest and other bits. - zero cost
This list has been posted before but might help
Oberoi
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The basics of the R170 are the same as the W202 - C class (same
engine/trans/brakes/diff/suspension.) so a Haynes book (3511) is
handy(no kompressor inf.)-- there is no manual in hard copy for the SLK but copies of Benz WIS disks can be found on Ebay - I got the set of 2 - never use them - dreadful to navigate but may help one day
>>>>>>>> Transmission -change fluid between 30-50k is good as insurance (jerky first couple of cold changes - normal)
>>>>>>>> Coolant change is vital - every 3yrs - use Benz coolant - cheap
>>>>>>>> If it starts throwing codes/running rough - Maf is first suspect.
>>>>>>>> Oil type air filter might cause Maf contamination - minimum benefit
>>>>>>>> Oil separator can be cleaned to ensure no oil gets to Maf - easy
>>>>>>>> Starting/stalling - look at crank pos. sensor or cam pos. sensor
>>>>>>>> Brake pads, easy - Brake fluid flush at 2 yrs - easy cheap job
>>>>>>>> Engine mounts are oil filled and can go at 140K kms+ - quite easy
>>>>>>>> Drive belts (2) at 100k kms - 10 min job - belts cheap
>>>>>>>> At 100+ k kms, consider the lower front susp. rubbers - knocking
noise when braking hard (Dealer job)
>>>>>>>> Any noise from engine at start up is likely to be belt tensioner
brgs (2) - $30 fix - easy- Idler bearing is bought as a complete unit (easy fix but $60)
>>>>>>>> Kompressor runs until engine heats up (can feel noisy)- otherwise
cuts in at about 2300 rpm - (pre face lift models)
_____________SLK SPECIFIC________________________
>>>>>>>> Peeling console paint - all 6 colours are avail. - easy and perfect
$40 fix.
>>>>>>>> Shocks might be shot at 120k kms+ - easy install -KYBs - $300 USD from Tirerack, really worth it
>>>>>>>> IMPORTANT - use short wheel bolts in tool kit if fitting the
emergency spare wheel - using std wheel bolts will cause serious damage !
>>>>>>>> Important to keep PSE dry (pneumatic pump for central locking etc) - RH side trunk - under jack in foam jacket - Usual problem is a leaky trunk seal or aggressive hose washing - some guys wrap in plastic or mount upside down.
>>>>>>>> The K40 relay sometimes has an issue with 2 dry solder joints -
again fairly easy fix by checking and re soldering
>>>>>>>> Noisy diff/transm. sound is nearly always tyres -aggressive tread
is bad news - many posts on this. Soft tyres also aggravate the noise -you can tell when tyres need air by the sound.
>>>>>>>> Roof has 5 hydraulic rams - oil level inspection RH side in trunk - unusual to have to have to top up- generally reliable.(ram seals fixable) Any problems with roof - check switches first - Lube all hinges with silicone spray and cycle roof regularly- (lube 4 locking hooks also)
>>>>>>>> Clean rubbers where roof joins and lube with Krytox grease (dupont) (dont use ordinary grease on rubber) Lubing the rubbers will get rid of nearly all creaking - notice how quiet your car is after washing or rain
>>>>>>>> Rattle behind seat is usually 2 rubber blocks fallen out where window touches the parcel shelf (in trunk) -1 minute
>>>>>>>> Lights behind heater controls can be changed by pulling knobs off
>>>>>>>> Lights behind speedo cluster is fiddly but do-able -2 large 15 small
>>>>>>>> Headlights can mist up after washing (they have to breathe)- silicone bead down vert join on lights is cheap invisible fix - 2 min.
>>>>>>>> Loose indicator stalk is a remove steering wheel job - quite easy 2
bolts for airbag and 3 for stalk - large allen key for st/wheel (IMPORTANT - disconnect battery)
>>>>>>>> Door trims can creak/armrest come loose - easy fix - remove trims & re-glue armrest and other bits. - zero cost
