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r170 wannabe

2552 Views 13 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Clasico
Hi everybody,

Just landed from the evergreen w123 coupe territory looking for a 170.

I no longer need the 5 seats on my 280 CE cause my 3 children do not like classics and going around with dad in old cars!

So i am searching for a roadster and the SLK r170 looks the part. Now gentlemen, a few questions from a newbee to be.

What are the major points to look at an SLK 230 K? Is there anything i should be specially aware in buying a 10 or so years old? any no nos?
Are many km on the odometer a firm deterrent or should i look elsewhere to decide upon?
Differences between pre and post-restyling, any worthwhile improvement?

Since I am in Spain i won´t ask you about target prices. Just for you to have an idea they range from 8 to 15K € for a 230K 2000 overhere.

Thanks in advance for your help
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Welcome to the most active of the forums Clasico - you'll have problems keeping your kids out of the drivers seat tho' !!!!

This list has been posted before but might help



The basics of the R170 are the same as the W202 - C class (same
engine/trans/brakes/diff/suspension.) so a Haynes book (3511) is
handy(no kompressor inf.)-- there is no manual in hard copy for the SLK but copies of Benz WIS disks can be found on Ebay - I got the set of 2 - never use them - dreadful to navigate but may help one day

>>>>>>>> Transmission -change fluid between 30-50k is good as insurance (jerky first couple of cold changes - normal)

>>>>>>>> Coolant change is vital - every 3yrs - use Benz coolant - cheap

>>>>>>>> If it starts throwing codes/running rough - Maf is first suspect.

>>>>>>>> Oil type air filter might cause Maf contamination - minimum benefit

>>>>>>>> Oil separator can be cleaned to ensure no oil gets to Maf - easy

>>>>>>>> Starting/stalling - look at crank pos. sensor or cam pos. sensor

>>>>>>>> Brake pads, easy - Brake fluid flush at 2 yrs - easy cheap job

>>>>>>>> Engine mounts are oil filled and can go at 140K kms+ - quite easy

>>>>>>>> Drive belts (2) at 100k kms - 10 min job - belts cheap

>>>>>>>> At 100+ k kms, consider the lower front susp. rubbers - knocking
noise when braking hard (Dealer job)

>>>>>>>> Any noise from engine at start up is likely to be belt tensioner
brgs (2) - $30 fix - easy- Idler bearing is bought as a complete unit (easy fix but $60)

>>>>>>>> Kompressor runs until engine heats up (can feel noisy)- otherwise
cuts in at about 2300 rpm - (pre face lift models)

_____________SLK SPECIFIC________________________

>>>>>>>> Peeling console paint - all 6 colours are avail. - easy and perfect
$40 fix.

>>>>>>>> Shocks might be shot at 120k kms+ - easy install -KYBs - $300 USD from Tirerack, really worth it

>>>>>>>> IMPORTANT - use short wheel bolts in tool kit if fitting the
emergency spare wheel - using std wheel bolts will cause serious damage !

>>>>>>>> Important to keep PSE dry (pneumatic pump for central locking etc) - RH side trunk - under jack in foam jacket - Usual problem is a leaky trunk seal or aggressive hose washing - some guys wrap in plastic or mount upside down.

>>>>>>>> The K40 relay sometimes has an issue with 2 dry solder joints -
again fairly easy fix by checking and re soldering

>>>>>>>> Noisy diff/transm. sound is nearly always tyres -aggressive tread
is bad news - many posts on this. Soft tyres also aggravate the noise -you can tell when tyres need air by the sound.

>>>>>>>> Roof has 5 hydraulic rams - oil level inspection RH side in trunk - unusual to have to have to top up- generally reliable.(ram seals fixable) Any problems with roof - check switches first - Lube all hinges with silicone spray and cycle roof regularly- (lube 4 locking hooks also)

>>>>>>>> Clean rubbers where roof joins and lube with Krytox grease (dupont) (dont use ordinary grease on rubber) Lubing the rubbers will get rid of nearly all creaking - notice how quiet your car is after washing or rain

>>>>>>>> Rattle behind seat is usually 2 rubber blocks fallen out where window touches the parcel shelf (in trunk) -1 minute

>>>>>>>> Lights behind heater controls can be changed by pulling knobs off

>>>>>>>> Lights behind speedo cluster is fiddly but do-able -2 large 15 small

>>>>>>>> Headlights can mist up after washing (they have to breathe)- silicone bead down vert join on lights is cheap invisible fix - 2 min.

>>>>>>>> Loose indicator stalk is a remove steering wheel job - quite easy 2
bolts for airbag and 3 for stalk - large allen key for st/wheel (IMPORTANT - disconnect battery)

>>>>>>>> Door trims can creak/armrest come loose - easy fix - remove trims & re-glue armrest and other bits. - zero cost
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