[Clasico]

Hi everybody,

Just landed from the evergreen w123 coupe territory looking for a 170.

I no longer need the 5 seats on my 280 CE cause my 3 children do not like classics and going around with dad in old cars!

So i am searching for a roadster and the SLK r170 looks the part. Now gentlemen, a few questions from a newbee to be.

What are the major points to look at an SLK 230 K? Is there anything i should be specially aware in buying a 10 or so years old? any no nos?
Are many km on the odometer a firm deterrent or should i look elsewhere to decide upon?
Differences between pre and post-restyling, any worthwhile improvement?

Since I am in Spain i won´t ask you about target prices. Just for you to have an idea they range from 8 to 15K € for a 230K 2000 overhere.

Thanks in advance for your help

 

[oztds]

There is nothing wrong with classic cars, especially ones that are well looked after.
The good news is there is no room for children in the R170.

There are plenty of posts her on tips for new buyers.
First and foremost is good history on the car - maintenance records, genuine mileage, no crash damage, not being written off etc. Good condition of body, paint and panel fit is important too. The condition of the interior will tell you a lot about the care taken by previous owners.
Common problems are untreated diagnostic codes (get them read), MAF (easily fixed), faulty camshaft position sensor, oil leaks from the engine sensors migrating along the wiring harness, the K40 fuel pump relay (dry joints), faulty brake lights (easily fixed), faulty brake switch, leaky hydraulics in the roof, water getting into the PSE, faulty windscreen washer / radiator reservoir sensor.
Good mileage comes with age of the car - go for less below averag (ie. say 10,000kms per year). 1998 is the most common year. Post facelift (after 2001) is arguably a better sorted package with some of the earlier problems attended to.
Overall it's a pretty reliable car and holds up well with age.
You see lots of problems on this forum and lots of solutions because people come here if they have problems.
Good luck with your search, and welcome to the forum.

 

[gakz]

Make sure there is no body damage..

If the rear end was hit it could be slightly off and cause problems either now or in the future with the convertible top.

 

[oberoi]

Welcome to the most active of the forums Clasico - you'll have problems keeping your kids out of the drivers seat tho' !!!!

This list has been posted before but might help

Oberoi

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The basics of the R170 are the same as the W202 - C class (same
engine/trans/brakes/diff/suspension.) so a Haynes book (3511) is
handy(no kompressor inf.)-- there is no manual in hard copy for the SLK but copies of Benz WIS disks can be found on Ebay - I got the set of 2 - never use them - dreadful to navigate but may help one day

>>>>>>>> Transmission -change fluid between 30-50k is good as insurance (jerky first couple of cold changes - normal)

>>>>>>>> Coolant change is vital - every 3yrs - use Benz coolant - cheap

>>>>>>>> If it starts throwing codes/running rough - Maf is first suspect.

>>>>>>>> Oil type air filter might cause Maf contamination - minimum benefit

>>>>>>>> Oil separator can be cleaned to ensure no oil gets to Maf - easy

>>>>>>>> Starting/stalling - look at crank pos. sensor or cam pos. sensor

>>>>>>>> Brake pads, easy - Brake fluid flush at 2 yrs - easy cheap job

>>>>>>>> Engine mounts are oil filled and can go at 140K kms+ - quite easy

>>>>>>>> Drive belts (2) at 100k kms - 10 min job - belts cheap

>>>>>>>> At 100+ k kms, consider the lower front susp. rubbers - knocking
noise when braking hard (Dealer job)

>>>>>>>> Any noise from engine at start up is likely to be belt tensioner
brgs (2) - $30 fix - easy- Idler bearing is bought as a complete unit (easy fix but $60)

>>>>>>>> Kompressor runs until engine heats up (can feel noisy)- otherwise
cuts in at about 2300 rpm - (pre face lift models)

_____________SLK SPECIFIC________________________

>>>>>>>> Peeling console paint - all 6 colours are avail. - easy and perfect
$40 fix.

>>>>>>>> Shocks might be shot at 120k kms+ - easy install -KYBs - $300 USD from Tirerack, really worth it

>>>>>>>> IMPORTANT - use short wheel bolts in tool kit if fitting the
emergency spare wheel - using std wheel bolts will cause serious damage !

>>>>>>>> Important to keep PSE dry (pneumatic pump for central locking etc) - RH side trunk - under jack in foam jacket - Usual problem is a leaky trunk seal or aggressive hose washing - some guys wrap in plastic or mount upside down.

>>>>>>>> The K40 relay sometimes has an issue with 2 dry solder joints -
again fairly easy fix by checking and re soldering

>>>>>>>> Noisy diff/transm. sound is nearly always tyres -aggressive tread
is bad news - many posts on this. Soft tyres also aggravate the noise -you can tell when tyres need air by the sound.

>>>>>>>> Roof has 5 hydraulic rams - oil level inspection RH side in trunk - unusual to have to have to top up- generally reliable.(ram seals fixable) Any problems with roof - check switches first - Lube all hinges with silicone spray and cycle roof regularly- (lube 4 locking hooks also)

>>>>>>>> Clean rubbers where roof joins and lube with Krytox grease (dupont) (dont use ordinary grease on rubber) Lubing the rubbers will get rid of nearly all creaking - notice how quiet your car is after washing or rain

>>>>>>>> Rattle behind seat is usually 2 rubber blocks fallen out where window touches the parcel shelf (in trunk) -1 minute

>>>>>>>> Lights behind heater controls can be changed by pulling knobs off

>>>>>>>> Lights behind speedo cluster is fiddly but do-able -2 large 15 small

>>>>>>>> Headlights can mist up after washing (they have to breathe)- silicone bead down vert join on lights is cheap invisible fix - 2 min.

>>>>>>>> Loose indicator stalk is a remove steering wheel job - quite easy 2
bolts for airbag and 3 for stalk - large allen key for st/wheel (IMPORTANT - disconnect battery)

>>>>>>>> Door trims can creak/armrest come loose - easy fix - remove trims & re-glue armrest and other bits. - zero cost

 

[Clasico]

Oberoi, that list of yours is impresive.
Thank you so much, I´ll keep it handy.

As for the search of the right car, hopefully i should have it before summer.

My prefered car is a 200K (i don´t think is available in some markets) auto trans, facelift model on dark blue or silver and black leather interior. running on standard wheels and no mods. This 4 cylinder engine produces 163 hp and has not the 230K issues with some electrothing of some kind that I readed in a few posts. Also being a facelift model should have an smoother hood operation and the back lights and other gremlins sorted out!!

All this for a maximun of 12.000 €. Will that be possible??

I shall keep you posted.
Thanks

 

[32krazy!]

slk32 nothing more to say!!

 

[galaxys]

The SLK 230K is a sweet machine! Test drive one and see if it fits your needs

 

[ByByeAmericanPie]

I agree with 32krazy...if you are gonna buy, why not go for the gusto and grab a 32AMG

 

[Clasico]

Well yes errr is only money!!!!
Otherwise 32AMG rules

Actually I am not a flashy person so I don´t know if the extra AMG whisltes and bisltes would suit me!! The engine yes.

 

[delhiboy3732]

I had the 230 and now the 32. I must say I still miss the manual transmission of the 230.

 

[ByByeAmericanPie]

One of the members on here has a 32 on sale at eBay with a manual. Last bid I saw was somewhere in the $9,100 range. Not too bad a deal.

 

[delhiboy3732]

Interesting...I wonder how you do it and what tranny can handle that engine?

 

[ByByeAmericanPie]

Sorry....my bad. It's a 320 not a 32

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...geName=ADME:L:LCA:MOTORS:1123#ht_1829wt_1076\

 

[Clasico]

Well clearly car prices in USA are cheaper than in Spain.
Although roughly similar if you forget about currencies. That is, 10.000$=10.000€, easy really.

I have seen a local 99 230K advertised, silver, black leather, manual, fully stamped book and looks ok in the print (they all do, don´t they).
At 8200 looks like a good deal but there is one little catch it has close to 120K miles.

Is this kind of mileage something that you shouldn´t consider or depends on proper maintenace to last say other 60K?

What would be the main areas to look and see if they have been changed or renewed.

Thanks