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· Registered
00 SL500 SOLD, 05 SL600 Sport, 09 Silverado 4x4 LTZ,SOLD '15Silverado LTZ 6.2 8Speed John Deere 318
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1,821 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have a polish to remove FINE scratchs from the wood trim on the console??? I just was'nt sure about a fine rubbing compound or polishing compound.
 

· BenzWorld Elite Member
2004 SL55, 2006 Range Rover Supercharged, 2013 Infiniti M37
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310 Posts
I had a local guy polish it, he had experience & knowledge with automotive woods. The piece looked new when completed, I think he charged $ 50.00 - well worth the $$.
 

· Registered
'03 CL500,& '07 GL450
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229 Posts
At the suggestion of other posters I tried the following and had excellent results on the burlwood interior pieces of my 1999 SL500:
3M-Plastic Cleaner-#39017
3M-Plastic Polish -#39010

Even though it's primary use is for plastic soft top windows you might try some of the POLISH on the interior wood- it worked for me.
 

· Registered
1991 500SL
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51 Posts
Console restored

Jay, I restored my wood console and it turned out great. I removed the console sanded (wet) with 1500 wet/dry paper then 2000 (Caution: the wood veneer is very thin and easy to go through). The console had some scratches and was dull, and one small crack about ¾ inch long. After sanding and scuffing with a gray scotch brite, wiped down with prep-soul. I put two coats of clear on. I used Sikkens 3 part clear came out great, very little dust/dirt. To remove any dirt I used 2000 wet and went over it with 2500 and buffed. As for the small crack I scuffed it with a gray scotch brite mixed some clear an filled the crack with clear using a tooth pick sanded an buffed. Use your paper wisely I think 400 grit is a little aggressive, I would use 800 or 1000 a little more work but safer, unless you have experience. The added value with clear is the UV protection.

The leather on MY 91 has a semi gloss finish
 

· Banned
Y2K SL500 Silver
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8,710 Posts
Center console fine scratch removal success stories....

Does anyone have a polish to remove FINE scratchs from the wood trim on the console??? I just was'nt sure about a fine rubbing compound or polishing compound.
Paul, I thought I would resurrect this thread and see if there are any smart guy's out there, besides you and Albert, who have been able to polish their center console to a glass finish w/o having to R&R the whole console.

One thing I have learned is to use blue painters tape to protect the black roll top area from getting wax into the grain finish.

I also read about using Mother's or Mequire's Plastic Polish or Scratch-X, etc.

I even bought one of those small red polishing balls that you can use on your wheels, that are worthless!

Now I want some success stories.
 

· Sith Lord
72 280SE 88 560SEC 92 E500 6.0 95 SL320 14 GLK350
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11,821 Posts
I used Pledge - not sure under which brand name it goes in the US - made by Johnson & Johnson. It brings furniture to a shine, and works well on car wood trim.
 

· Registered
2000 SL500 Black Diamond Designo, 1987 Porsche 944, 2005 Chrysler Pacifica
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150 Posts
I would treat it like a painted surface. it must have a protective clearcoat on it. Wetsand with super fine paper "like a 2000 grit" then buff and polish. It works on fine veneers.

I have carbon fiber overlay and it's coated 3 stage clearcoat.
I now treat my center console like my HOOD! Never set anything on it! Cups, keys, cell phone.....
 

· Banned
Y2K SL500 Silver
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8,710 Posts
I used Pledge - not sure under which brand name it goes in the US - made by Johnson & Johnson. It brings furniture to a shine, and works well on car wood trim.
Yes, I use Pledge also and it used to work great on my motorcycle gas tank.

But I want to get out the fine scratches first then Pledge.
 

· Banned
Y2K SL500 Silver
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8,710 Posts
I wet sanded mine with 1800 grt wet or dry sand paper and polished with finalglaze. Looks new
Sounds like a plan but I have never color sanded and I'm not comfortable using sandpaper and water on ANY surface but I guess I have to start somewhere.

So far I think I'll try the Mequiars Plastic Cleaner then Polish first. It used to work well on the windshield of a Cessna P210 or Piper Dakota.
 

· Greek God of the R129
SL500-500SEL-190E
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8,737 Posts
It is like having an itch, I scratch, here,,, there....
But there is one place I 'll never scratch.

That is a hemorrhoid itch....I leave this one alone.

This Albert here say's leave this one alone.

If you want to do a good job.....
Is to remove the console strip, stain, and refinish.
(Good luck with the stain.)

Or if scratches are not deep, (No finger nail catching.)
They can be buffed out on an electric wheel buffer with cutting compounds.

There is always a possibility of braking it.
Also that you will damage/remove the markings from the switches.

Mine is scratched up too, but I am noooot touching.
Did I mentioned that I do have the buffers and tools etc, to do the job. ;)
I am not scratching. :( Haha.

Regards.
aam.
 

· Registered
'93 SL500 (sold), '88 GMC Sierra 360,000 miles, '86 Yamaha FJ1200 (criminally fast)
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765 Posts
Paul, I thought I would resurrect this thread and see if there are any smart guy's out there, besides you and Albert, who have been able to polish their center console to a glass finish w/o having to R&R the whole console.

One thing I have learned is to use blue painters tape to protect the black roll top area from getting wax into the grain finish.

I also read about using Mother's or Mequire's Plastic Polish or Scratch-X, etc.

I even bought one of those small red polishing balls that you can use on your wheels, that are worthless!

Now I want some success stories.
I used plastic polish... It worked "pretty good". ( Mine was really scratched)

I might try the Plastic Headlight Lens Restorer kit sometime..... It could be the deal!
 

· Registered
'93 SL500 (sold), '88 GMC Sierra 360,000 miles, '86 Yamaha FJ1200 (criminally fast)
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765 Posts
My opinion is, that's just a wax......Wood flooring is a soft wood and not a fine-finish as our console.

It's the fine scratches we are wanting to remove.

( Headlight restorer ..like what I used on my & g/f's car, was great. The Turtle Wax style has 4, grit compound, super-fine sanding pads ( 1 1/2" square pads) then a polish. Great for tight places...

If you don't see fine scratches after the clear headlight is done, you should have a nice finish on your console.
 

· Greek God of the R129
SL500-500SEL-190E
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8,737 Posts
I suspect that the console is baked, that is why the thick finishing is so hard and
durable.
As time goes on the humidity and heat expansion/contraction, it then cracks.
Now as refinishing goes,,, if it is very bad then do it, it will be better then before.
But if is a mediocre........

Regards.
aam.
 

· Banned
Y2K SL500 Silver
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8,710 Posts
I suspect that the console is baked, that is why the thick finishing is so hard and durable.
As time goes on the humidity and heat expansion/contraction, it then cracks.
I believe your right about it being due to age.

I hand rubbed it with a micro fiber pad and scratch remover polish and followed up with Mothers Plastic window polish. It looks bright and shiny but when you shine the light on it you can still see the fine scratches from whatever someone rested on it.

It's an anal thing for me but it doesn't justify removing the climate control, radio, and all of the switches with the likelihood of something breaking in the process.
 

· Super Moderator
1986/1990 W126
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21,892 Posts
I noticed your post, i used metal polish with excellent results, came up like glass. But i did it by hand and it took absolutely ages, with the console removed. If not removing you'd need to take care not to rub off markings on switches - i dont know what they're like in your car. Afterwards i wax it like my paintwork, with a deep lustre wax.
 

· Banned
Y2K SL500 Silver
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8,710 Posts
I noticed your post, i used metal polish with excellent results, came up like glass. But i did it by hand and it took absolutely ages, with the console removed.
Great idea. There are all kinds of different grit polishes it's just a matter of how much time you want to take.
 

· Registered
'96 SL500, Triple Black
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1,655 Posts
Everything I have tried by hand doesn't do the trick but going to try the metal polish now! The surface is just too hard to get any real permanent results from what I have seen. The compounds, swirl removers take some swirling out and waxes fill some in but, with my experience you still notice scratches when in the sun or under a good light.

That's as far as I am going with mine unless it cracks or really gets to me. Just not worth the risk yet.

My Dad removed his and used a random orbital with a combination of Megs polishes and pads - I don't have the details (haha no pun intended). I have to admit though, I didn't think his looked very bad to begin with. It did however look horrible at first all marred with his first round of cutting pads but with persistence and many combos of polishes then waxes I have to say it looks showroom now.
 
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