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Discussion Starter #1
I've read loads of threads about the auto drop and soft top operation and previous problems. My window total stopped working because of worn teeth. I needed new glass so basically stripped out the whole door. Welded the crank and refitted everything. Window works great from the switch but does not auto drop. Other door window works perfect.
I have resynced using the window switches... no help. Checked the door handle micro switch with a meter.. seems to switch ok. Battery is ok. Roof has also stopped working ( I expect because window phase is inop).
Is there any way to check the logic at the control module?? or any other hints.
I intend to get the fault codes read and reset... I guess that is the next obvious step.
Out of interest - are the control modules full of computer chips, or is it something a competent electrical person could deal with.. ie television repair man?
I have had my car about 6 months but I'm getting to know it quite well, and also finding my way round this excellent Forum.
Cheers
 

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This happened to me on my '98 SL500, not stripped gear wheels but the window wouldn't drop. I just did the windows up and down two or three times, and the steering opposite lock two or three times to rectify the problem.

I'm sure Klaus will have a better answer :thumbsup:
 

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Did you disconnect the battery during the operation? If so then you need to re-sync the windows. Roll down the windows all the way - manually - and close them again by holding the button down. Keep holding it down for another 5-8 secs after the window closes.
 

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More details needed

rocketfixer,

you have asked a pretty loaded question here, stuffed with a lot of background info. Allow my to paste comments and ask questions below:

I've read loads of threads about the auto drop and soft top operation and previous problems. My window total stopped working because of worn teeth. I needed new glass so basically stripped out the whole door. Welded the crank and refitted everything. Window works great from the switch but does not auto drop. Other door window works perfect.
I have resynced using the window switches... no help.
I'm not sure that I understand exactly what you did. Did you replace the motor, and did you replace it with one from a model '95+?

Since the other window is apparently auto-dropping, this sounds like the controller is not able to read the bad window's position correctly.

Sounds like you did the proper resynch, but I'll mention some details for other readers in the future. Part of proper resynch is to have the trunk closed completely, engine off and doors closed while you run the windows down and up...

Checked the door handle micro switch with a meter.. seems to switch ok. Battery is ok. Roof has also stopped working ( I expect because window phase is inop).
Which switch did you check there? The window position gets signaled from a Hall sensor in the window motor - the controller basically counts how many times the motor has turned to determine the window position. Connects to the wiring harness with a 4-pin connector in the top front of the door.

Yes, the roof will not work if the controller doesn't know the position of the windows.


Is there any way to check the logic at the control module??
Checking the logic in the control module beyond what you can find the RST Controller Ultimate Thread http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1324795-r129-roadster-soft-top-electrical-controller.html#post2419223 is very difficult.

or any other hints.

I intend to get the fault codes read and reset... I guess that is the next obvious step.
Reading and resetting codes is good, but you may not yet have to spend the money on it. I recently had a window malfunction caused by the controller, and disconnecting the battery for an extended period actually solved the problem.

Out of interest - are the control modules full of computer chips, or is it something a competent electrical person could deal with.. ie television repair man?
All chips and tiny components, plus a few relays. Usually far beyond the competence of a TV repair guy. Some folks have been lucky to find cold solder joints or sticking relays in the past, but that usually applies to the '90-'94 models only.

I have had my car about 6 months but I'm getting to know it quite well, and also finding my way round this excellent Forum.
Cheers
Let's keep our fingers crossed that it's only a loose wire from the Hall sensor...

Hope this helps,

-Klaus

[email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you all for the quick replys, and Klaus for the details.
Answers - No parts changed/replaced, but because I had to remove the windercrank to repair the teath, I took the opportunity to replace a badly scratched window, therefore most parts removed from door. All the original parts went back. I tested the motor before connecting it to the crank, so this obviously put it out of sync. I knew the door handle had a micro swt so I removed the whole assy including lock solinoid and checked the whole thing for correct operation.. all ok.
I figured the motor should still be ok as it was only disconnected and no work performed. I did read about the hall sensors, but again all was ok before removal so I hoped once the window was resyncd every thing would come ok.
But,, you have mentioned a very important oversight on my part. I did the syncing with doors closed, but I had the tail/boot open ( battery needed trickle charging).
I think I will disconnect the battery for a couple of days while I reassemble everything, adjust the window correctly and go out for a drive and try and resync again. What do you you think??
Again many many thanks.
:)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Window auto drop & roof fixed

Good news .. Car is back to normal.. Everything working as it should. I notice that often solutions are not posted, so here is the final chapter. All the excellent help from this forum guided me in the right direction.. So many many thanks.
I,m not a 100 percent sure what actually fixed it, but my final actions were,,, disconnect battery for 2 days. Reset 2 plugs on the controller. Made sure boot was closed. Charge battery, Reconnected battery and one resync of the windows, all came good. I hope this gives hope to others, because I had pretty much accepted that. I might need a control unit £1000s!!!
I,m happy:)
 

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closing trunk lid required for window synch on MY '95-'02

Rocketfixer,

congrats, and thanks for letting us know. The charger cable going to the battery has fouled up many window synchs - glad that bulk info dump made you find the correct solution, and it may help others in the future! :)

Oftentimes, other forums pay the search engines more and their old posts come up first in google searches, but BenzWorld's R129 forum truly rocks... ;) Your detailed description and follow-up helped in creating a very useful thread.

-Klaus

[email protected]
 

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Not sure if this is related, but when I use the key in the door lock:

1. All locks operate as they should.
2. As I continue to hold the key the windows roll up.

This is a good thing.

However, when I use the remote:

1. All locks operate as they should.
2. As I continue to hold the remote button down the emergency flashers go on but the windows remain open.

?????? :surrender:
 

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2. As I continue to hold the remote button down the emergency flashers go on but the windows remain open.

??????
Welcome to the R129 forum!

I'm not sure what your question is. Do you think you have a problem? #2 above is correct. You have to raise your windows with the interior window switches or place the IR remote control about 1-2" from the exterior of the door sensor, in dim light, and that will raise or lower the windows. See your Owners Manual for additional info. if needed.
 

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Thanks Lynns for the welcome.

I just tried it again with the remote very close to the door receiver and it worked. I think I may need to replace the battery in my remote.
 
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