Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

181 - 200 of 304 Posts

·
Registered
1991 SL500
Joined
·
132 Posts
Yes, we did torque the nuts loaded. We actually had to replace the brand new Bilstein HD shocks in the first week because the first new ones 'creaked' when i turned the wheels, strange, never heard that noise before. Ordered new ones again, and only one creaked, so ordered one more. In the mean time we checked and retorqued the three smaller nuts and strut nut. It's strange that i can hit a larger hole and no problem but a sudden 1 or 2 " drop in pavement and i get a real abrupt 'bang', i'll figure it out shortly and will report the finding. Thank you for the tips !
 

·
Banned
Y2K SL500 Silver
Joined
·
8,660 Posts
make sure the upper mount is seated properly in the fender, the 3 nuts (13mm) need to be torqued gradually and in criss cross fashion, so the mount is mated to the fender properly and not wedged.

Also, you need to make sure the upper nut (22mm) is also torqued properly...

any of these nuts not torqued properly or not mating properly, will cause a slap sound when the spring is deployed...
Sounds good to me.

All the bolts need to be tightened with the suspension loaded.
That means car on the floor, or a jack under....... ;)

Regards,
aam.
Sounds good to me.
 

·
Banned
Y2K SL500 Silver
Joined
·
8,660 Posts
if it does i'm going to chop an inch or two off maybe.
That was also suggested to me, but NOT necessary, and I have NOT experienced your problem.

Is there a possibility that you have placed the new bump stops up side down?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
98 SL500
Joined
·
362 Posts
Strut Mount Replacement - in trouble

Hey guys, following the thread I am in the middle of changing out a cracked mount.

Removed the old mount without any problems. installed the new one and lightly tightened the three 13mm nuts.

Now the problem:mad:
I can't get the strut shaft to come out the strut mount hole. As I lower the jack the tire is on the ground and the shaft is still 4in or so from the hole. If I continue to lower the car will the shaft find its way without damaging something? Once the weight is on the tire the strut doesn't move easly for alinement. Help :bowdown::bowdown:
 

·
Moderator
SL55, 300SE, GL450, Daytona 955i
Joined
·
10,293 Posts
Hey guys, following the thread I am in the middle of changing out a cracked mount.

Removed the old mount without any problems. installed the new one and lightly tightened the three 13mm nuts.

Now the problem:mad:
I can't get the strut shaft to come out the strut mount hole. As I lower the jack the tire is on the ground and the shaft is still 4in or so from the hole. If I continue to lower the car will the shaft find its way without damaging something? Once the weight is on the tire the strut doesn't move easly for alinement. Help :bowdown::bowdown:
thats wierd... is your shock collapsed?

I usually wear a thick glove to protect my hand, and use someone to look from above and guide me to aim the shaft where the hole is...

at the same time I have one hand on the compressed shock rod, and another on the jack pump rod...

its tricky the first time you do it, but not impossible to do...

be careful though... dont hurt your hand...
 

·
Registered
98 SL500
Joined
·
362 Posts
thats wierd... is your shock collapsed?

I usually wear a thick glove to protect my hand, and use someone to look from above and guide me to aim the shaft where the hole is...

at the same time I have one hand on the compressed shock rod, and another on the jack pump rod...

its tricky the first time you do it, but not impossible to do...

be careful though... dont hurt your hand...
I don't know if the strut is collapsed or not.
I'm trying to do it by my self that may be the problem.

But is lowering it completly down before the threads show the norm?
 

·
Moderator
SL55, 300SE, GL450, Daytona 955i
Joined
·
10,293 Posts
not really...

if you get any threads through the hole, then attach the nut, tighten it slowly by a hand tool, and it will pull the strut up to where it belongs...

the tricky part is to get the threads through the whole...

also, try to wobble the wheel and move it out of the way, when you undo the upper strut mount, the wheel gets deattached from the body at the top, it is alway a possibility that you have the wheel wedged under the car, thus it is touching the ground prematurely... giving this false impression that the car is lowered...
 

·
Registered
98 SL500
Joined
·
362 Posts
O-K thanks for the help.
It my be time for new struts but I wanted to wait to the fall.
I'll go back out and give it another try.

Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
98 SL500
Joined
·
362 Posts
not really...

if you get any threads through the hole, then attach the nut, tighten it slowly by a hand tool, and it will pull the strut up to where it belongs...

the tricky part is to get the threads through the whole...

also, try to wobble the wheel and move it out of the way, when you undo the upper strut mount, the wheel gets deattached from the body at the top, it is alway a possibility that you have the wheel wedged under the car, thus it is touching the ground prematurely... giving this false impression that the car is lowered...
Finally got it.:):) I was always a half hole off as I lowered the car. Couldn’t align it with the weight on it. Doing what Bayhas suggested I moved the wheel -I pulled the bottom to me and pushed the top in. This moved the shaft to the opposite side and as the jack was lowered it brought it into position. It still had only a thread or two showing . Used the nut to (again Bayhas) pull it through. This was done with out the cross over bracket in place. Then had to raise the car to lower the threads to get the bracket on. When I lowered the car the threads were showing. :D
I want to thank every one who contributed to this thread for their helpful instructions and to Bayhas for getting me through to the end.
 

·
Banned
Y2K SL500 Silver
Joined
·
8,660 Posts
make sure the upper mount is seated properly in the fender, the 3 nuts (13mm) need to be torqued gradually and in cris cross fashion, so the mount is mated to the fender properly and not wedged.

Also, you need to make sure the upper nut (22mm) is also torqued properly...
Well I had my MB strut mounts replaced when I upgraded my entire suspension to Bilstein strut/shocks, H&R Springs, Meyle strut mounts 18 months ago and 11.5K miles.

The other day I notice a strange sound coming from my suspension on the left side when I turned the steering to the full left in a non moving position. At first I was concerned that it was a noisy steering pump.

Here are a couple of pictures of my driver side Meyle strut mount. Please notice that one (outside) of the three Meyle bolts are sheared off. I will never know if they were not torqued properly by my Indy. But I do know that my center bolt was loose and needed to be torqued again until I can have the new $56.00 Meyle strut mount replaced again by my Indy at $100.00 labor.

Note: the sound went away after the center bolt was tightened.
 

Attachments

·
Greek God of the R129
SL500-500SEL-190E
Joined
·
8,372 Posts
Have the mechanic CK the strut bumper.
If it is damaged or not.

Remember that lowering the car makes the strut longer.......

Regards,
aam.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
I'm finding quite a few different part numbers for this strut mount. The dealer told me I needed part # 1293200344 which lists for almost $300. I noticed the autozone strut mount is not as tall as the original one. I also noticed there mite be a difference if you have self leveling. Does any one have an insight to my problem?
 

·
Moderator
SL55, 300SE, GL450, Daytona 955i
Joined
·
10,293 Posts
0344 is the one for SLS... And its the only part that fits your car...

The one for non SLS is 0473
 

·
Registered
Buncha W124's
Joined
·
2,052 Posts
Please don't buy parts for your R129 at AutoZone, or from eBay sellers hawking no-name junk made in China. Please! Especially avoid Uro, FEQ, and APA brand parts... all are excellent paperweights and good for nothing else.

Either get the OE "Genuine Mercedes" item from parts.com or your favorite MB dealership, or at least get OEM (Boge, Lemfoerder, etc) item from a reputable aftermarket vendor like AutohausAZ or Buy MB Parts.

:(
 

·
Banned
Y2K SL500 Silver
Joined
·
8,660 Posts
I'm finding quite a few different part numbers for this strut mount. The dealer told me I needed part # 1293200344 which lists for almost $300. I also noticed there might be a difference if you have self leveling. Does any one have an insight to my problem?
Does your car have self leveling? Then you need two each of MB p/n 1293200344

Note: there are very few 1999 SL500's with the self leveling as an option because of it's cost. Whereas the SL600 came stock from the MB factory with it.

Most 1999 SL500's have a standard suspension that require two each of MB p/n 1243200473
 
181 - 200 of 304 Posts
Top