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1998 SL500 Black on black
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
OK, looks like you understand somewhat now, your observations for lug bolts is correct, but to be more specific for "clearing the Rear Parking Break", the length of threads sticking out of the back side of the wheel, (any Mercedes wheel), should be 17mm to 20mm, or about 3/4". At least 17mm to make sure enough threads are engaged for safety, and no more than 20mm to clear the parking brakes. Also with spacers, you of course need to add in the width of the spacers as well.

Here is a link to Otis, unfortunately it appears they are out of stock on the different lengths of 12M R14 bolts, call them to be sure.


See the attachment for a simple drawing of how to measure correctly for bolt length..

Good Luck

PS: just looked at that Otis link again, looks like they have one size left, 55mm length, maybe they can cut them down to the exact size you need, call them and find out.
i appreciate your quick and thorough reply and help. Even though we’re off topic from lowering the car, this is huge as well.
I’ll be taking FatherTimes advice about HR springs and smaller cups. I’ll probably end up getting the fenders roll so I don’t rub.
 

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Premium Member
SL's & 500E's
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1,978 Posts
Here is an additional website, to help you pick the right size tires.


On the screen you will see a place to compare two different sizes. Typical way to use this web site is to plug stock or current sizes on the left side, then play with the right side combinations until you get compatibility it possible.

In your case on the left size plug in your stock wheel and tire sizes. For a 129, the stock sizes are;
wheel = 8 x 16 ET34; Tires = 245/50 16

Look at the overall diameter measurement when the above sizes are entered, you will see that the tire outside diameter is 25.7" , this is important to remember.

That is important to keep in mind, it makes a difference on speedometer & odometer readings, and of course your biggest challenge is going to be the prevention of tire rubbing, especially after you have lowered the SL..

Questionable ET, wide tires, and suspension lowering is a perfect storm for tire rubbing, that will drive you nuts...

So I used this website to see what tire sizes you should consider with the wheels you purchased, but I fudged the ET input to reflect the addition of 20mm spacers all around

I came up with 245/40 18 fronts, and 275/35 18 rears,

good luck
 

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1998 SL500, 1999 ML320
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128 Posts
I know this is late but here is what I see in my SL320/SL500/SL600 1990-02 parts manual.

Front Springs w/SLS are same 1990-02
Front Springs w/o SLS list 90-92 and 93-98 as separate items. Interesting in that my parts list goes from 1990-02

Rear Springs are different for w/SLS and w/o SLS but apparently date independent 1990-02

As for lowering any car where I live now, it would be instant suicide. Road maintenance is not good Things did get better when I put in new engine mounts and front steering components. When I lived in California I drove a series of 4 Corvettes, talk about a clearance problem! (I still wish I had my last Vette instead of this older and more expensive to maintain 98 SL500. I have spent incredibly more on maintenance and restoration of the SL than on toe total of all the Corvettes, my 300ZX, and an original Austin Healey 100/6.
 

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M113 SL500
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498 Posts
H&R never made different springs for V6 or V8, and even if they did, it has nothing to do with whether H&R makes Sport AND SuperSport springs for the R129. Eibach no longer makes springs available in the US for the R129. You may be able to import from Europe at premium. You may be able to find stock of Vogtland or B&G lowering springs somewhere, but they are not widely available.

Guess what though...none of these spring manufacturers advertise a 2"+ drop. In the rear you may be able to get 2" if you're starting with a #3 then go with a #1 spring pad, but you'll have to cut any one of these spring manufacturers' front spring to match the 2" drop in the rear. You'll be riding around on your bumpstops and will have reduced half or more of your travel from rest to full compression. None of these springs are stiff enough to prevent you from bottoming out your shocks if you go that low, no matter which shocks you go with and riding around on your bumpstops to keep from bottoming out will make you hate yourself, life, and your car. If you're willing to pay to play and lowered looks are all you really care about, have at it.

Knowing how and where to buy stuff is the easy part. Search is your friend.

BTW, no one ever said you have to buy RAD lugbolts did they?

 

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1998 SL500 Black on black
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
When removing the front and rear springs, can you just drop the LCA so the spring falls right out?
 
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