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1988 560SL
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I have been researching the best method to reinstall the window Block that attaches to the Rail inside the Drivers Side Door. I have read so many suggestions that I need to see if this can be reattached without completly removing the glass from the Window? at the Chrome Piece which is at the door strike upper section if I take the Allen Screw out does this lift the entire rail out freely or does the window come with this as well. I am trying to reattach this Block, what started this process is the Thunk of the Door was not working and it appeared that the window needed adjustment because when the window is down the door close's perfectly. I removed the inside Trim and at the bottom was the rear window block less the screw that holds this in place. I am assuming that this piece fits vertically on the side bottom of the window and screws thru the Rail and the window is held in place with the Felt channel that appears to have some residue of Mastic or window adhesive that has failed. if anyone can share any experience on this specific repair I would be grateful, otherwise off to the Dealer for this repair. I found this image below on another site from a 380SL on Pelican Forum Thread. Thanks for helping
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2611584
 

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1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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5,147 Posts
The block attaches to the glass, not the rail. It was originally a press fit combined with some sort of glue. You will have to remove the window to fit it. The small block is at the rear of the glass near the bottom.I used glue and some absorbent tape. Removal of the window is well described in the manual. Care needs to be taken when removing the large chrome piece so as not to scratch anything. Use a piece of one of those thin plastic kitchen cutting mats. You can see all the black mastic junk I used on the block. Typically it is the small blocks that fall off the glass. You will note there is a nylon sleeve that's inside the block and acts as a shim for the rail.Also. there may be an adjusting screw on the block (I've seen some without) Don't screw it tight , it's meant to be a loose fit on the rail. :)
 

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1976 450SL
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422 Posts
I have been researching the best method to reinstall the window Block that attaches to the Rail inside the Drivers Side Door. I have read so many suggestions that I need to see if this can be reattached without completly removing the glass from the Window? at the Chrome Piece which is at the door strike upper section if I take the Allen Screw out does this lift the entire rail out freely or does the window come with this as well. I am trying to reattach this Block, what started this process is the Thunk of the Door was not working and it appeared that the window needed adjustment because when the window is down the door close's perfectly. I removed the inside Trim and at the bottom was the rear window block less the screw that holds this in place. I am assuming that this piece fits vertically on the side bottom of the window and screws thru the Rail and the window is held in place with the Felt channel that appears to have some residue of Mastic or window adhesive that has failed. if anyone can share any experience on this specific repair I would be grateful, otherwise off to the Dealer for this repair. I found this image below on another site from a 380SL on Pelican Forum Thread. Thanks for helping
AussieMerc posted some great instructions on this a few years ago, and I followed them when doing mine.

What I did was:

  • Remove all the blocks (or recover from the bottom of the door if they've already fallen off...)
  • Clean and degrease both the glass and the blocks, and remove the felt if any remains
  • Use thin aluminum sheet, and cut into a rectangle, fold it around the edge of the glass so it will fit between the glass and the block in a 'u' shape. Basically, this makes a u-shaped trim that fits inside the block, and wraps around the edge of the glass
  • Trim it so it fits inside the block (or only slightly larger).
  • Drill lots of 1/4" holes in the metal piece (might be better to do this before bending)
  • Put some Expoxy FlexSet on the glass where the block goes. This is an amazing epoxy - will stick well to clean glass, but is not cheap...
  • Push the strip onto the edge of the glass where the block goes (epoxy should come through the holes). Add some more so it's covered
  • Push the block on over the strip (tight fit, but you should have epoxy squeezing out the edges
  • Clean any extra FlexSeal off the window...
Leave for a couple of days (at least) before re-fitting the window

I know that AussieMerc posted photos; I probably have some as well if you need them...

-Steve
 

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1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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5,147 Posts
Martin, as long as you can successfully glue it to the glass the correct way in the right place the rest is straightforward. There are different glues around that work with glass and metal. Steve is right- give it plenty of time to harden .I see in that pic of the block it doesn't have a screw but that doesn't really matter.Having said that I successfully cut a thread in one and bought a screw to fit but I'm not sure it's worth the effort.
Graeme

Ps That first pic is one of mine.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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I am sure I must have posted about how I did this way back. (OK, HERE in 2007) I used FlexSet (NOT FlexSeal!), made by Travaco (Marinetex) bought at West Marine, but now maybe available at Home Depot etc. Before using that, I tested several other adhesives. and FlexSeal worked best. The original installation used some sort of impregnated felt to center the glass in the aluminum. Instead of that, I made some narrow shims out of thin aluminum. Not full width, just wide enough to keep the glass positioned while leaving a wider gap for the epoxy. Been in there now for years without a problem.


 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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9,999 Posts
There are different glues around that work with glass and metal.
This is true. Others I tried adhered (like 3M 5200) but were not nearly as good as FlexSeal. Later, I used Dow 795 on my boat windows. This adhesive is used to adhere glass to aluminum frames in high rise buildings. It would also likely work on our windows, but is not one I tested.
Thinking back Aussie - Didn't you use Dow 795? If so, did it work long term?
 

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1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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5,147 Posts
This is true. Others I tried adhered (like 3M 5200) but were not nearly as good as FlexSeal. Later, I used Dow 795 on my boat windows. This adhesive is used to adhere glass to aluminum frames in high rise buildings. It would also likely work on our windows, but is not one I tested.
Thinking back Aussie - Didn't you use Dow 795? If so, did it work long term?
Yes, now that you mention it MBG. Dow 795 worked fine. Well , it's only been 4 years though. :)
I bought it at a ship supply.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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9,999 Posts
Yes, now that you mention it MBG. Dow 795 worked fine. Well , it's only been 4 years though. :)
I bought it at a ship supply.
795 can be hard to buy retail. In Canada, distributor would only sell me a case of 12 cartridges! I was able to buy a single cartridge when we were in SC one winter. Wholesale shop. Guy told me they sold it to local aquarium to seal the glass viewing ports. The guide isn't under much stress. So long as it stays adhered to the glass (it should), it should be fine.
 

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1985 380SL w 5OO SEL block, 2005 SL500, 2011 C300
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