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1983 300D
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
on the 190E calipers (1988), when changing pads;

a) is the tool used to push the pistons back absolutely necessary, or can a C-clamp or channel-lock pliers be used?

b) are there 2 pistons on each caliper that need to be pushed back; or is there just one (my old saab had a single piston)?

c) can i lock-tite the caliper bolts or do i need to drive to the dealer for some bolts?


thanks a lot.

take care.
 

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A- use the old pad with a c clamp to push back the piston. No need for special tool IMO. Just apply even pressure

B- the fronts are single piston where as the rears are dual piston with pins that hold the pads align. On the rears be sure not to removethe bolts which hold the caliper together there's four of them.

C- Ijust use the old german gutentight torque spec if you want to use lock tight I don't see an issue. I took off the calipers completely at 160k withno issuereusing the bolts
 

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1983 300D
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks for the reply. i took off one of the rear calipers but this tool i "rented" to push the pistons back wasn't made for these type of calipers. should have just payed $4 for a c-clamp. i put the old pads back, with their few millimeters left. i'm going finish it up over the next couple weeks.

thanks again.
 

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'86 190E 2.3, '08 RDX, '09 C63 AMG
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I thought you don't need to remove the rear caliper? I haven't done it yet, but looking at the Haynes manual, it says to pop off the retaining pins, remove spring, and slide pads out.

But before sliding pads out, do you push them back in using a prying motion and screwdriver to move the piston back?
 

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I thought you don't need to remove the rear caliper? I haven't done it yet, but looking at the Haynes manual, it says to pop off the retaining pins, remove spring, and slide pads out.

But before sliding pads out, do you push them back in using a prying motion and screwdriver to move the piston back?
Technically u don. Need the calipers off you could do just that but in my situation I replace the parking break components plus rotors
 

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1983 300D
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I thought you don't need to remove the rear caliper? I haven't done it yet, but looking at the Haynes manual, it says to pop off the retaining pins, remove spring, and slide pads out.

But before sliding pads out, do you push them back in using a prying motion and screwdriver to move the piston back?
i thought the same thing.. after taking the caliper off. i haven't had time to go back and replace the pads but i was a little worried that i might damage the rotor by trying to pry the pistons back. i'm not sure how much force is needed to push them back yet. if not too much then i think it would be relatively easy. i'll find out in a few hours.

taking the caliper off is very quick however, and worth it if there is any chance of causing a bigger headache by pushing with uneven pressure or needing to use the rotor to brace against.
 
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