[260e crusier]

I hope you realize that the question about the jackstands was a joke... lol I"m only saying this so that everyone here doesn't think I'm an idiot...

Thanks for your help.

I"m looking at building an attachment tool for flushing out the torque converter/rad/cooler lines without doing the nut and screw clamp attached to the return banjo bolt thingy... I'd rather have something I can thread on easily. Got the tap for cutting the M14x1.5 threads. Just have to get a bit of time at the lathe to cut the body.

On the 97 E420, there is a drain plug for the torque converter. Very easy to locate by turning engine clockwise (facing engine) with a 27mm socket on the harmonic balancer bolt. Might be better/safer than flushing an old transmission. Your call.

You can check the pilot bushing by flipping white lever down and taking the plug out of socket. If it's leaking there will be fluid inside. I prefer not to change it out unless it's leaking. Less chance of stripping the small bolt. I do check mine on a regular bases. Again your call.

I don't use jack stand anymore, even though I have a very good set. I just don't trust them especially when I'm yanking real hard on a bolt. This is what I use (no way it's going to tip over!):

 

[260e crusier]

I have looked at the idea of using blocks like that. But as I want to bleed the brake system while I have it up, I've been looking to take all 4 wheels off at one time... Setting tires on boards doesn't seem to be compatible with that idea.

I have eight blocks. If I need to take off wheels, I just put the blocks under the jack pads points by lifting from the front cross member, differential or factory jack holes with grade eight bolts.

One advantage I found with blocks is that I can safely work on my sloped driveway if I need to. Changing fuel related items is one example I don't want to do inside the garage.

Whichever way you choose, be safe.

 

[260e crusier]

I use 236.12 in all of my transmissions. Don't know if it's any better, just my choice.