[amosfella]

I was curious if someone has made a machine like a pressure bleeder that would flush the transmission out without having to run the engine while doing the procedure. was thinking of trying to build an attachment from a old filter from a 722.6 tranny, some glue and pvc fittings. I just didn't know if the pump would allow the fluid to go through while the car is stopped, or would it be unable to go through the cooler, and running the car is the only way.

I have 2 cars that seem to need a change. My car appears to have never had the trans fluid changed. The black tab is still on the dipstick tube. Seems to shift fine according to the mechanic that did the PPi. My grandma's car needs a change as well. I know that it hasn't been changed for about 80k for sure if not more. She and I were talking about it, and she wants me to do it. The dealer prices were well over crazy. Also, the one dealer for sure is still pushing the 'sealed for life' carp.... grrr...

 

[Kajtek1]

You can buy ATF flushing machines.
I did pictorial on using one in General Section.
But the power flush is not the best recommended method on older transmission as it can swirl the dirt.
I think youtube has a method where owner stick rubber hose into the filter hole, dip it in gallon container of new ATF, put big drip pan under open transmission and run the engine for few seconds to naturally flush the internal parts.
If you do the job only as a prevention, I think dropping the pan, let the fluid drip overnight, what will give you about 4l is simply enough service and crucial IMHO is wiping the pan clean.
DON'T FORGET TO REPLACE PILOT BUSHING.

 

[amosfella]

DON'T FORGET TO REPLACE PILOT BUSHING.

Could you explain??

 

[ezzo]

....
DON'T FORGET TO REPLACE PILOT BUSHING.

Why should the pilot bushing be replaced if it was not leaking?

 

[Kajtek1]

How do you know it is not leaking without pulling it out and checking the plug?
Pilot bushing is #1 source of troubles on those transmissions and with about $10 cost should be changed with any transmission service.

 

[ezzo]

..
I think youtube has a method where owner stick rubber hose into the filter hole, dip it in gallon container of new ATF, put big drip pan under open transmission and run the engine for few seconds to naturally flush the internal parts.
....

Thanks for mentioning this video, I cycled through a few until I found it. Here is the link with the time of your exact point.
[ame]https://youtu.be/tAYEozocvJM?t=10m46s[/ame]

 

[ezzo]

Watch at 10m46s

 

[ezzo]

Got ya. I thought the leak would be visible without taking it out. And at $10, it is worth it.
Thanks!

 

[amosfella]

Ok. I've got the parts in my order cart. Genuine mercedes part for $14 cad... lol

 

[ezzo]

Ok. I've got the parts in my order cart. Genuine mercedes part for $14 cad... lol

What part are you referring to here? Can you post a link?

 

[amosfella]

What part are you referring to here? Can you post a link?

https://order.germanparts.ca/produc...20&subapplication=194&search_type=APPLICATION

 

[amosfella]

For those looking in Alberta and Saskatchewan, and maybe BC, UFA Petroleum has Shell ATF 134 for $6.67 cad a quart.

 

[Sixmyles]

Best flush video I've found.

 

[amosfella]

Looks easy enough for my from the videos and pics that I've looked at. Oil is ordered for both cars mentioned. Now, looking for transfer case oil, diff fluid, brake fluid, and coolant. Does anyone know the most recent MB spec numbers for those items for both of the cars mentioned??

I've got an idea for a tool for flushing the old fluid out from the banjo bolt. When I get one made, I'll show it on the forum.

 

[Noodles]

For the transfer case it is a very special ATF that I only get from MB. It hold less than one liter. It is also a light brown color. The part number for it is 001989230310 and is under $20 a liter.

Brake fluid needs to be DOT4+. Do not use DOT 5. The brake flush really needs to done with the MB Star system and a pressure bleeder filled with the brake fluid.

Coolant life is 15 years or 150k miles. At that time the coolant is replaced with MB G-48 blue coolant. The exapansion tank is also supposed to be changed with a genuine one because the tank has a packet of silica in it to keep the coolant freash and is depleted by the end of coolant's lifespan.

For the diffs front and rear I use the MB 75w-85 gear lube. Current part number should be 001989330312. It is not cheap, but the diffs cost thousands so I am sticking with the MB fluid.

 

[amosfella]

Thanks, Noodles. Do you know if the DOT 4+ and diff oil is good for the 97 e420 as well?? And the coolant? I'd bet that the brake fluid hasn't been changed in that cor for about 8 years. Good that I live in a very dry climate, and the car isn't used much. It's grandma's go to church car. I've been struggling to find the info on the current MB spec for that car.

I have a pressure bleeder on order, and I have purchased 2/3 of the STAR system. I'm waiting on Paul's contact to get back to me about the mux.

Does anyone know if 12 ton a piece jackstands are heavy enough to hold the car up, or will they fold like bad origami under the car??

 

[Noodles]

The Dot 4+ is good to use on youre W210. The coolant is easliy substituted with Zerex G05. It is avalable at many big box parts stores and also at Amazon for a decent price.

The jack stands you listed will hold up the car with no worries at all.

 

[amosfella]

The Dot 4+ is good to use on youre W210. The coolant is easliy substituted with Zerex G05. It is avalable at many big box parts stores and also at Amazon for a decent price.

The jack stands you listed will hold up the car with no worries at all.

I hope you realize that the question about the jackstands was a joke... lol I"m only saying this so that everyone here doesn't think I'm an idiot...

Thanks for your help.

I"m looking at building an attachment tool for flushing out the torque converter/rad/cooler lines without doing the nut and screw clamp attached to the return banjo bolt thingy... I'd rather have something I can thread on easily. Got the tap for cutting the M14x1.5 threads. Just have to get a bit of time at the lathe to cut the body.

 

[260e crusier]

I hope you realize that the question about the jackstands was a joke... lol I"m only saying this so that everyone here doesn't think I'm an idiot...

Thanks for your help.

I"m looking at building an attachment tool for flushing out the torque converter/rad/cooler lines without doing the nut and screw clamp attached to the return banjo bolt thingy... I'd rather have something I can thread on easily. Got the tap for cutting the M14x1.5 threads. Just have to get a bit of time at the lathe to cut the body.

On the 97 E420, there is a drain plug for the torque converter. Very easy to locate by turning engine clockwise (facing engine) with a 27mm socket on the harmonic balancer bolt. Might be better/safer than flushing an old transmission. Your call.

You can check the pilot bushing by flipping white lever down and taking the plug out of socket. If it's leaking there will be fluid inside. I prefer not to change it out unless it's leaking. Less chance of stripping the small bolt. I do check mine on a regular bases. Again your call.

I don't use jack stand anymore, even though I have a very good set. I just don't trust them especially when I'm yanking real hard on a bolt. This is what I use (no way it's going to tip over!):

 

[amosfella]

On the 97 E420, there is a drain plug for the torque converter. Very easy to locate by turning engine clockwise (facing engine) with a 27mm socket on the harmonic balancer bolt. Might be better/safer than flushing an old transmission. Your call.

You can check the pilot bushing by flipping white lever down and taking the plug out of socket. If it's leaking there will be fluid inside. I prefer not to change it out unless it's leaking. Less chance of stripping the small bolt. I do check mine on a regular bases. Again your call.

I don't use jack stand anymore, even though I have a very good set. I just don't trust them especially when I'm yanking real hard on a bolt. This is what I use (no way it's going to tip over!):

I have looked at the idea of using blocks like that. But as I want to bleed the brake system while I have it up, I've been looking to take all 4 wheels off at one time... Setting tires on boards doesn't seem to be compatible with that idea.