[jtoma878]

I plan on doing my front brake pads this weekend...

Can the rotors ot these cars be cut? I know my OEM rotors on my CLK could not be cut, something about the metal they were made of made it impossible to cut. You just had to replace them. Are the older models the same way??? Or am I stuck buying new ones?

Also, is there any "Wierd Mercedes" (as I like to call them) things I need to know about doing the front pads? Or is it a pretty conventional brake job?

Thanks,

Joe T
'84 300D
'01 CLK 320

 

[MB-Owner-in-ind]

Not sure about the rotors, most cars aren't trued up anymore because it doesn't cost much more for new rotors. There is something weird about replacing the pads, you don't have to remove the calipers to do so!!
In fact removing the calipers actually will make the job harder.

 

[MBeige]

Well there's something about reinstalling the wheels that are peculiar with the W123--the lug bolts already have the thread in them so you'll need to feel your way into installing the first lug bolt because the hub will only have holes. Once the first bolt is in, you'll be able to find the rest (and let go of the wheel too).

 

[jtoma878]

Karugs, I actually have a centering tool from my CLK that takes care of that!!!

How do the pads come off w/o taking calipers off??? Kinda sounds impossible

 

[MB-Owner-in-ind]

jtoma878 - 1/28/2005 7:43 PM


How do the pads come off w/o taking calipers off??? Kinda sounds impossible

On top of the pads is two pins, just undo them, pull them out then pull the pads out.

 

[MBeige]

Jtoma,

Glad you have it, I don't! [] No idea about the pads, I haven't done my brakes--went to a shop and learned my lesson not to go back to them!

Here's what Haynes said about removing pads:

Use needle nose pliers to unplug the wear sensor connectors if equipped. Remove the locking clips and drive the upper retaining pin out using a small punch. Remove the retaining spring and then drive out the lower pin. Grasp the ear of each pad with pliers and push the piston evenly into its bore, then withdraw the pad.

 

[MB-Owner-in-ind]

Yeah, that sounds right. Sorry, it has been over a year since I changed the pads but I did them without reading how first and it was the easiest pad job I ever done and I have done a lot.

 

[sokoloff]

MB rotors don't have that much metal to allow them to be turned. If you try to turn them, you'll likely be at or below the wear limit. New ones are so cheap that it's usually not worth turning them anyway. Also on the 123 chassis on the front if you take the rotors off, you sure as hell don't want to put turned or worn rotors back on. The fronts are enough of a PIA to do that I would put nothing on them except brand new rotors. So either just leave them on if they have life left or replace them altogether.

Len
'83 240D 342,500 miles original owner

 

[AlanfromBigEasy]

Replacing pads is also a good time to check for wheel bearings if the car is new to you.

My rotors will need to be replaced next time, but one wheel bearing was pretty dry when I repacked them. Glad that I did.

Alan

 

[ilikemercedes]

It looks like you have some extra cash to spend on upgrading, the cheapest and easiest imo, would be to upgrade to 126 callipers (same calipers just wider, they used the same pads I believe) that way you can upgrade to 126 vented disks (or aftermarket disks).

The pads don't require any special tools just a punch (small skinny screw driver to punch the pins out) and hammer, the tricky part (if all goes well) is compressing the spring when the new pads are in.

If the rotors need to be replaced then you'll need to get a wrench and stuff (haven't actually needed to do it yet). But the pads are easy, don't forget the anti-squeeling compound and sensors.

 

[MBeige]

ilikemercedes - 1/29/2005 1:34 AM

It looks like you have some extra cash to spend on upgrading, the cheapest and easiest imo, would be to upgrade to 126 callipers (same calipers just wider, they used the same pads I believe) that way you can upgrade to 126 vented disks (or aftermarket disks).

The pads don't require any special tools just a punch (small skinny screw driver to punch the pins out) and hammer, the tricky part (if all goes well) is compressing the spring when the new pads are in.

If the rotors need to be replaced then you'll need to get a wrench and stuff (haven't actually needed to do it yet). But the pads are easy, don't forget the anti-squeeling compound and sensors.

Didn't W123's have ventilated discs? On my Haynes manual there is a diagram on the front cover showing ventilated discs. [?]

Anyhow, I agree with Ilikemercedes on the W126 brake disc and caliper upgrade if you're heading there as well. I read it at the W123 MSN club and it's possible. I think you'll need longer retaining clips for the wider calipers though.

 

[BF_JC230]

yes you can do the w126 upgrade as we have the same front spindles....you will need rotors and calipers...new pads, etc...i read that the best stuff is the 560...now what i can not say is if the offset for the rims will be a o k ...but i am pretty sure that a w126 runs a 25et...the same as us...i have read of people doing it...i will do it when my drilled slotted rotors are done - thatll be in a while...i suggest those, they are great...

the goodridge stainless lines are a good thing too, take a little tweeking to be perfect, but no big deal...

"The fronts are enough of a PIA to do that I would put nothing on them except brand new rotors. So either just leave them on if they have life left or replace them altogether." - holler

jake