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2010 Mercury Milan Hybrid, 1993 BMW 325i convertible
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Discussion Starter #1
I think I've now gotten the last of the little glitches worked out of the ACCII system. I plugged off the line to the footwell pod because I'm just not up for ripping apart the interior of the car yet. I finally investigated why in the world MB put a huge coil of green wire in the space behind the glovebox and didn't hook the end up to anything. They didn't. It was probably the same mensa member who replaced the vacuum tubing and hooked it all up wrong. He stuffed one end of the coil into a spare vacuum port and then tie-wrapped it so it wouldn't rattle around. Put a proper vacuum cap on. And last but not least, I found a vacuum line that had popped free of it's rubber connector.

So it heats up perfectly, I couldn't ask for better. If I have the AC compressor switch on, it cools down beautifully. The fan cycles up and down, everything works just the way it should. There's something it does, though, that would be a pretty good design feature if they actually planned it that way. I'm asking because the owner's manual doesn't say anything about it.

If the ambient/interior temperature is much higher than the set temperature on the control panel, the fan won't kick on unless the AC compressor switch is also turned on. Once the ambient/interior temp gets closer to the set temperature, the AC compressor switch doesn't have any affect. The fan will work with it on or off. It makes sense - if the ambient temp is 90 and the set temp is 75, having the fan run without the AC compressor on will just get you hot air. But is it a design feature? Or do I have more troubleshooting to do?
 

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Premium Member
2010 Mercury Milan Hybrid, 1993 BMW 325i convertible
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6,077 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Oh, one other thing. In case anyone is curious.

The rubber boot behind the center vents on my car was pretty much shot. I brushed my hand against it and punched a hole in it. I ordered a new one through the MB dealer, but didn't dare ask the price. Turned out it was only about $40. And it went on slick as a whistle. Total time to take the old one off and install the new one was about 45 minutes, and most of that was taking out the instrument cluster and glovebox and putting them back in. You have to reach through both holes to get things lined up right, but there's plenty of expansion and it's easy to get it on.
 

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ScottinSoCal said:
If the ambient/interior temperature is much higher than the set temperature on the control panel, the fan won't kick on unless the AC compressor switch is also turned on. Once the ambient/interior temp gets closer to the set temperature, the AC compressor switch doesn't have any affect. The fan will work with it on or off. It makes sense - if the ambient temp is 90 and the set temp is 75, having the fan run without the AC compressor on will just get you hot air. But is it a design feature? Or do I have more troubleshooting to do?
I haven't run my AC in a while, the switch being broken and all, but if memory serves me mine operated the same way you are describing. It's about time I r&red that switch.
 

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1980 450SL & 1988 560SL
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I feel your pain on that servo. I pulled mine out to see if I could repair it and found it was............cracked, rusted, locked, shorted, open, seized, leaking, gummed up and in overall poor condition. I would post pic, but it would scare the crap out of the youngsters. :surrender:
 

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Digmenow said:
^^^
Something like this, perhaps?



(Didn't want to disappoint)
Methinks, not. More of a low to mid chirping.The rodents don't approach my car for a reason.
The chirp you should hear is when the big birds fly,
All within a mile or two start paying attention, and heading for home. R107 style.
 

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If this is any help, I have my servo pulled out of the car and on the bench and my AC compressor will still cycle on with the defroster switch on.
 

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1980 450SL & 1988 560SL
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Yea, rollin restore is my excuse when it breaks down. Kinda like taking your grandmother kick boxing.......... you something is going to break, just not what.
 
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