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Outstanding Contributor
450slc5.0cab 280sl5sp 280se4.5 500se+500slAMG +250seStkW108 350sl4spdX3 500secEuro
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Discussion Starter #1
Put my car in shop for Tierods & Shocks... Yesterday I got THIS PICTURE on my phone

I told him to replace anything that makes sense to replace while in there replacing the tie rods and shocks. I hadn't expected this. Says he's replacing motor mounts now too. I knew there was a lot of bad rubber, but no idea we were going THIS far. Watch out check book!
 

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Registered
1976 450 SLC. (working, in need of paint)/1987 300E/1989 635 CSI/2004 Honda Element (appliance)
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142 Posts
Wow... I wish I could do that to my car... Might as well replace engine mounts and shocks.. I mean how much more can it be?
:bowdown:
 

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Outstanding Contributor
450slc5.0cab 280sl5sp 280se4.5 500se+500slAMG +250seStkW108 350sl4spdX3 500secEuro
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Discussion Starter #5
Wow... I wish I could do that to my car... Might as well replace engine mounts and shocks.. I mean how much more can it be?
:bowdown:
Shocks were on the initial list. Engine mounts hit the list after they decided to replace the subframe mounts. I think all the ball joints and a whole bunch of stuff I never wanted to replace are all on the list. You know what the Irony of it all is... they said one of my tierods is fine. So 4 shocks, one tierod... how does that lead to a total front-end rebuild?

Well, it is 37 years old.

Oh crap.:givemebeer::givemebeer::asshat:
 

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Always Remembered RIP
1979 280sl 4 sp w/ac 1957 MGA 1998 volvo xc/70 2004 F150
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6,050 Posts
I hope you have a good proctologist in the neighborhood!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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One of the BW Old Guard/R129, W204 Moderator
1997 SL500- 40th Anniversary
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7,166 Posts

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Outstanding Contributor
450slc5.0cab 280sl5sp 280se4.5 500se+500slAMG +250seStkW108 350sl4spdX3 500secEuro
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22,569 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
^^^ Yes recall work was done before my purchase. Too bad all the rubber wasn't replaced then too... or maybe it was, just eons ago.
 

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Registered
1978 450SL (RIP); 2007 Impala 9C3 (Police); 2010 Ford Edge
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212 Posts
Sounds like you mechanic was short on work this week...and then you showed up with a 37 yr old car. $$$$

Needed to be done but......:eek:

(I'm also jealous, too)
 

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1986 300 SL Euro spec - Signal Red/Black Eng/Trans: Inline 6 (M103.982) / 722.322 Auto
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1,976 Posts
Look at it this way, at least you can feel confident behind the wheel after this extreme makeover !! I am in the process of changing front end rubber parts, a section at a time and Im about 75% done.

Good luck (and hope you can negotiate payments) :D
 

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1979 450 SL
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120 Posts
Don't fell like you are alone and poor. I started out having my mechanic change out the dried out of what was left of the lower control arm bushings. I ended up replacing all rubber bushings to include the rear subframe bushings. All with OEM parts. While it was apart we ( I paid, he did the work) also replaced the tie rods, lower ball joints, outer tie rod assembly. My previous indie shop used to charge $90 an hour, while my new mechanic only charges $50. The money I save on labor now goes for additional needed parts and repairs. When completed they will save me more money on labor and then I will get even more parts and repairs that will save me money. Who says you can't own a 107 and save money too?

The money spent on the front end work I believe was well worth it. The ride is better and I feel more confident driving the SL knowing the front end is in good shape and should not be subject to any failures in the foreseeable future. (KNOCK ON WOOD.)
 

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Premium Member
89 R107, 05 CDI
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2,536 Posts
Dude, that's awesome, she's gonna drive so NICE!

Why not do both tie rods though? Even if the other one is good it won't be as good as the other side and then it'll need to be replaced soon cuz it's old anyhow...
 

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Premium Member
'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,340 Posts
Actually, That is probably an easy way for shop to do that work, especially the engine mounts.

I had shop do my front end - shocks, subframe mounts and engine mounts with parts I supplied - Labour C$630.00 - They didn't drop the subframe and had a lot of difficulty with the engine mounts - Otherwise, job should have cost less.

I was just happy I hadn't tried it myself.
 

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Outstanding Contributor
450slc5.0cab 280sl5sp 280se4.5 500se+500slAMG +250seStkW108 350sl4spdX3 500secEuro
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Discussion Starter #15
The passenger side tie rod must have been recently replaced, plus I think he messed up the order and only ordered one tierod. Luck? Coincidence? Whatever works. I was actually shocked at how much less he's getting the parts for (and only charging me cost for them). I think he gets up to 40% off the prices we see at the online discount parts providers. He gets some wholesale prices, plus the parts typically come from New Jersey and take a 1/2 day to arrive from the time he places the order. I'm certainly ordering all parts from him from now on.

I really do believe that they are looking out for me. The idea is to save "crossover" time to get as much done as inexpensively as possible. I think it also happens to be a good week for them having at least one big job canceled. Add to that the fact that I don't need the car right now. We've got snow (and probably salt) on the ground right now. So it's fine for me if it sits in there for a while. ... I also need to fix that coolant leak which I believe is where the hose from the blower box connects to the heater core... and leaks on the gas and brake pedals. I don't feel like fixing that in this cold weather.

My car is going to be on a "layaway" plan for me to pay for this. :)
 

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'85 380SL (155Kmiles), '82 240D stick, '80 300SD, '77 240D, '89 BMW 535i, 3 VW Diesels, 2 Triumphs
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As a newbie to this chassis, please allow me to ask a couple of stupid questions...

1) I see the subframe lying there- what does the car look like now? Is it up on jackstands with a stout jack under the oil pan? And , if so, how did he roll the subframe out while the engine was supported from underneath ( or maybe it wasn't supported from underneath?)

2) What is keeping the springs from flying out?

I am hoping to never have to do any of this on the front end, but in another thread Scott said the easiest way to pull the engine ( and THAT might happen) is to drop it with the subframe, so I am trying to wrap my head around how the puzzle fits together..

Rick
 

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Outstanding Contributor
450slc5.0cab 280sl5sp 280se4.5 500se+500slAMG +250seStkW108 350sl4spdX3 500secEuro
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Discussion Starter #17
As a newbie to this chassis, please allow me to ask a couple of stupid questions...

1) I see the subframe lying there- what does the car look like now? Is it up on jackstands with a stout jack under the oil pan? And , if so, how did he roll the subframe out while the engine was supported from underneath ( or maybe it wasn't supported from underneath?)

2) What is keeping the springs from flying out?

I am hoping to never have to do any of this on the front end, but in another thread Scott said the easiest way to pull the engine ( and THAT might happen) is to drop it with the subframe, so I am trying to wrap my head around how the puzzle fits together..

Rick
Sorry, but as I just received the picture on my phone, I don't know the answer to either of the above questions. I'm sure someone here does though.

The car is surely on one of the shop's three lifts, where I last saw the car. No jack-stands. In fact, last I saw, the owner's rally car was being stored below the SL at night.
 

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560SL,380SL
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I wish I had the equipment to do this, so much of what I've done would have been easier...with the assembly out, I hope he replaces the upper and lower control arm bushings. I got the uppers out the hard way, but it would be much easier and safer to do the lower ones out with the entire subframe out. He could even get at the spring pads.

On a 20+year old car, let's face it, there IS no "good" rubber. Even when I've replaced rubber parts that seemed OK, the difference in size and "springiness" between old and new was surprising. This should translate to better ride/steering/handling. The biggest change in feel in my case was doing the subframe mounts, but every little bit helps.
 

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1976 450 SLC. (working, in need of paint)/1987 300E/1989 635 CSI/2004 Honda Element (appliance)
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142 Posts
Rs:
I do not think that it is hard to do if you have a lift, and a nice engine hoist. The first thing that you need to do is to make sure that neither the engine or subframe will fall out of the car while you do it. Then you disconect the brake lines, ABS sensors (if you have them) and wear pad sensors.
After you disconnect this, you disconnect the steering arm steering damper, the 4 bolts holding the subframe, the 4 bolts holding the sway bar and the 2 bolts holding the shocks. Gently lower it. You do not want to be underneath it..
Now as for how the springs are not flying off, notice that there is an upper and lower control arm, and that the spring is going to a perch on the subframe, and the upper control arm counters the springs tendency to push the lower control arm down. It is a bit different from my 300E where the spring goes on a perch of the car.
If you have any 107, and want it to drive as "new" this is the easiest way of doing it, as you can get to all the annoying bits, the upper and lower bushings, subframe, shocks, engine mounts, engine shocks....
You could always replace them piecemeal, but it would be a major PITA.
:thumbsup:
 

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'85 380SL (155Kmiles), '82 240D stick, '80 300SD, '77 240D, '89 BMW 535i, 3 VW Diesels, 2 Triumphs
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1,553 Posts
smolina-

I actually do have a 2-post lift ( if I can get the non-functional cars off it and out from under it) and can borrow/rent/buy an engine hoist.

So basically hold the engine/tranny/subframe from the top,disconnect everything, lower it to the floor, pick up the car?

I guess I understand the spring issue- its basically the same as asking why the springs don't fly out if you lift the car....

I am used to W123s and W116s, ya see...


Rick
 
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