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Coupe/Convertible Forums Moderator
CURRENT: 2011 SL550, 2011 C300 FORMER: ML350, CLK550 Cabriolet, C240, ML320, 300TD
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Discussion Starter #21
There is no way to remove the pulsation dampener without sliding the pump forward. There's just not enough room. Also, you must b VERY CAREFUL not to let any dust, dirt, debris or other items from entering the pump while the dampener is removed.
 

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2007 SL550 (R230) and 2012 SClass Designo (W221)
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29 Posts
Help with Pulsation dampener

Rodney, Many thanks for sharing your process, it is working soefar. I cannot get the original dampener off. 17mmn on top of globe, counterclockwise. Won't budge. Also how do you get the wire off? are their Clips?

Thanks, MNSL550
 

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2005 SL65 plus 13 other non MB toys
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713 Posts
Sometimes it takes a little "shock" to get them loose. Do you have room to tap on the end of the wrench with a hammer? Same idea/similar effect as using an impact wrench.
 

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2007 SL550 (R230) and 2012 SClass Designo (W221)
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Thanks for the thought Triple Cranks. I gave it one more hard crank and broke it loose. Got everything thing back together and running quiet as new. Now what should I do with the $1500++ savings burning a hole in my wallet?
 

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Coupe/Convertible Forums Moderator
CURRENT: 2011 SL550, 2011 C300 FORMER: ML350, CLK550 Cabriolet, C240, ML320, 300TD
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Discussion Starter #25
Hmm, $1500, I am certain my wife could spend it for you! :p
 

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2004 (w220) S500 & (R230) SL550 2007
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645 Posts
I am stuck. I have the serpentine belt off & the pulley of pump off & the E12 bolt top left of pump out
but the bolt below the top one seems to have not enough room and there is not enough room the remove the pulley once you get the 3 bolts out to make room. There is also some mention of a rear bolt which I can't see or feel. What step am I missing?
 

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Coupe/Convertible Forums Moderator
CURRENT: 2011 SL550, 2011 C300 FORMER: ML350, CLK550 Cabriolet, C240, ML320, 300TD
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19,248 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
You don't need to remove the pulley entirely - just remove its bolts and move it to access the bolt it is blocking. There is on more bolt under the pump. You will need to access it from below and you can only see it with a mirror, so it will be done by feel.
 

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2007 SL550 (R230) and 2012 SClass Designo (W221)
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29 Posts
Perhaps Mr. Rudeny's write-up as posted on the "other forum" would be useful, see post #9 here: (I used this procedure on mine and it worked perfectly). You do need to remove that bolt from underneath and by feel.

 

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2004 (w220) S500 & (R230) SL550 2007
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okay i have both front E12 bolts out so I'm now trying to get this final 3rd bolt? nut? from the rear.
How is this done? Do I have to remove a wheel liner or under panels? what size is this 3rd one?
should it be completely removed or just very very loosened? I'm hoping this is the last puzzle piece.
 

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CURRENT: 2011 SL550, 2011 C300 FORMER: ML350, CLK550 Cabriolet, C240, ML320, 300TD
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Discussion Starter #30
There are three bolts. Looking at the WOS doc:


It's two bolts labeled "9a" and one labeled "5". I assume it's 5 that you are having a hard time with. it's on the back of the pump, at the bottom. It actually holds a bracket onto the pump that them bolts to the engine block. Some people say to remove the bracket from the block (like WIS shows), but I think that's very hard to get to and it's easier to remove the bracket from the pump, but you have to do that from underneath with the lower engine covers removed (not the fender shroud - just the horizontal covers under the engine).
 

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2004 (w220) S500 & (R230) SL550 2007
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That PDF is most helpful but leads to new questions not mentioned in the postings. When removing the 2 front BOLTS do the nuts on the back fall off (9e & 9b) or are the front bolts unrelated? Then what is the consensus on removing bolt 5 vs 9e ? Is it better to remove bracket from enging block or better leave bracket attached and remove pump from bracket? Thanks this job could have been 5 minute job with some better design by placing the pulsation dampner so it could simply been unscrewed and replaced Grrrr
 

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Coupe/Convertible Forums Moderator
CURRENT: 2011 SL550, 2011 C300 FORMER: ML350, CLK550 Cabriolet, C240, ML320, 300TD
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Discussion Starter #32
Honestly, I can't remember about the nuts. As for the bracket, I think I removed it from the black as that was easier to access, but again, my memory fails me (it's tough getting older!)

As for the the suggestion that a different design would make the dampener easier to replace, keep in mind that the official procedure is to only remove the dampener with the pump turned upside-down to prevent any debris from entering the system. This quick method of loosening the pump goes against that process.
 
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