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OK I ruled out fuel pump, filters and any other fuel supply and vacuum issues. Today I pulled both carbs and will package them up for professional rebuild and bench test. I regret having to do this but I am convinced the idle problem is in the carbs and I don’t think a simple do-it-yourself rebuild kit will get the job done on 40 year old carbs. I expect to pay about 250 each for all. Wife is OK with it, just have to wait until after Christmas. Will update later
 

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Who did you send your carbs to and did it help? my problem is the car cuts out under hard acceleration and I'm convinced its the carbs.
 

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1971 250/8 sedan with 80 K miles. Driven only in Summer.
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Since you pulled both carbs, it's easy to open them up. Your idling problem will be the tiny idling jet . Remove the the top stage only. Do not forget the center screw in the aircleaner hole. There is lots of info. on this forum. Extract the jet carefully and clean the inside. I used a the smallest needle from a welding tip cleaner [0.45mm].The kit is un der $10 . Do the main jets also and use common sense . Brake cleaner works very well to make them shine and save the $500. There is an english guy in Hamburg who does the complete rebuilding professionly. Jens Peter Adam at www.su.stromberg.de also Bob Tyler at www.bobs.service.de Hope this helps. Harald.
 

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1971 250/8 sedan with 80 K miles. Driven only in Summer.
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Waiakoafarms. Please mention the model you drive. I had the same problem as you. Question. Do you still have the original fuel pump. When I pulled mine , I discovered a dirty fuel filter as part of the pump. Nobody ever cleaned it in 35 years. There should be a tiny screw holding the cover. I ordered a new pump befor I pulled mine but didn't have to. It just might fix your problem. Just trying to help. Harald
 

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1965 220S, 1999 Volvo V70 (wagon), 2006 Ford Crown Vic Police Interceptor, 72 350SL 4 Speed
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He did, look at the title.
 

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64' 220SEc, 72' 300SEL 6.3, lots of parts
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All that the re-builder is going to do is the same thing you can do to the carburetors. If you know what to do that is.

It is just a procedure to do this and save $500.
I have done this for fun and beer.

they do not need bench test bolt on and go (if done correctly)

first thing, take the top off a carburetor and do a visual check for crud in the bowl. do this without removing the carb from the manifold, (brilliant those engineers)

If visible particles of any kind, then to the next stage.
 
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