The point: Three important things:
1.The part of the door handle that does not move is held in by a VERY SPECIAL Left-hand screw, with reverse washer teeth. If you break the screw (its metal, and does NOT break easy) You have to buy the whole piece together with the partial handle and screw. *you'll need a long reach T20 Torx to reach it. No, a short 1/4 socket version on an extension will not work. No, a T20 screw driver will probably not work either. its needs to be long and thin.
2.There are driver side and passenger side springs. I found out the hard way.
3 When putting the spring in, it doesn't go in the hole you think it does does. Theres another hole further under...yes I am sure... keep looking. Mine were filled with schmoo and it looked like there was no hole there at all.
long story:
If your locks are bouncing up and down, and not locking, and you DON'T want to pay hundreds per door to fix it and instead would rather spend $12 to fix the doors yourself...be careful. I did both passenger doors. With a $12 kit off ebay. Works great. But it's not easy. Getting the door panel off is not difficult, but be sure to use the right tools. don't use a flathead screwdriver to pry it off, you could damage the panel and scratch the paint. plastic trim tools are at harbor freight cheap. Its dealing with the windows and and getting the actuator assemblies out that is the real PITA. I was never able to actually separate the actuator from the assembly and replaced the springs while it was all still attached. Do yourself a favor and sweep and clean the floor under you before you start and put down a white t-shirt/sheet to catch it when you drop the spring.... because you WILL drop it.
1.The part of the door handle that does not move is held in by a VERY SPECIAL Left-hand screw, with reverse washer teeth. If you break the screw (its metal, and does NOT break easy) You have to buy the whole piece together with the partial handle and screw. *you'll need a long reach T20 Torx to reach it. No, a short 1/4 socket version on an extension will not work. No, a T20 screw driver will probably not work either. its needs to be long and thin.
2.There are driver side and passenger side springs. I found out the hard way.
3 When putting the spring in, it doesn't go in the hole you think it does does. Theres another hole further under...yes I am sure... keep looking. Mine were filled with schmoo and it looked like there was no hole there at all.
long story:
If your locks are bouncing up and down, and not locking, and you DON'T want to pay hundreds per door to fix it and instead would rather spend $12 to fix the doors yourself...be careful. I did both passenger doors. With a $12 kit off ebay. Works great. But it's not easy. Getting the door panel off is not difficult, but be sure to use the right tools. don't use a flathead screwdriver to pry it off, you could damage the panel and scratch the paint. plastic trim tools are at harbor freight cheap. Its dealing with the windows and and getting the actuator assemblies out that is the real PITA. I was never able to actually separate the actuator from the assembly and replaced the springs while it was all still attached. Do yourself a favor and sweep and clean the floor under you before you start and put down a white t-shirt/sheet to catch it when you drop the spring.... because you WILL drop it.
