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Discussion Starter #1
2006 s500

I usually work on my own cars but I don't have a lot of experience with Mercedes. Forums are a huge help. I haven't found anything with the search bar yet and hoping for some direction. We've owned the car for about a year and it has about 125,000 miles on it.

Yesterday, my wife said she had trouble starting the car and got a message about pre-safe unavailable. I think the battery may need to be replaced soon but it starts fine for now. We've never had to jump start it. She also said she noticed a burning/plastic smell. I got in and it started fine with no messages. I could smell it also but it was faint.

This morning, she said that the trunk wasn't working. A little digging and I find that the door locks, trunk, rear head rests and lumbar don't work either. I read on the forums and find that I can reset the PSE by pulling the 20A fuse behind the light in the rear passenger seat. The fuse looks good but pulling it doesn't correct the problem.

I disconnected the negative battery cable and reconnect with no change.

I pull the PSE out and I can hear clicking but no motor when I press the remote buttons.

Is there a way to bench test the motor of the PSE? Can I simply replace the motor? What else could it be? Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
a little more... I watched a video showing the internal propellers possibly being damaged. I pulled my motor out of the PSE and dis-assembled it. The graphite propellers looked fine. I hooked the motor up directly to 12V and nothing. I'm sure my motor is bad.
 

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I stopped by the salvage yard and found a CLK. The pump assembly was a little different but I pulled the motor out anyway. I'll have to transfer some parts to the motor, but it may work.
 

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2005 S600
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It won’t work.

It has to be programmed for the options/circuits that exist on your particular car.

You need to hook it up to STAR for module programming.
 

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2005 S600
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It likely won’t work.

It has to be programmed for the options/circuits that exist on your particular car.

You need to hook it up to STAR for module programming, unless you just wire the motor into you existing pump and circuit board...

But that doesn’t always work.
 

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I didn't think I would need to reprogram it because I'm going to use the same circuit board. This motor won't work though. It's smaller. I'm going to try and source just the motor. It's very easy to get to and there are only 2 wires that need to be soldered to the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
someone sourced a motor for $3.50. His was a w140 S-Class. I'm sure we can find a motor for the 220.

 

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Discussion Starter #9

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W220 Moderator
S500 W220 SLK320 R170 C200 CDI W203 Peugeot Expert Van
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Thoughts are you should have at least have read codes before pulling the fuse etc etc because it has likely burnt out due to a leak, there would have been "Timed Out" codes now there won't.

You may get lucky the Motor Brushes do wear and the Motor then burns out, where you're at now I would start with a decent new motor ;)

By the way, what's that "Real Time Answers" all about in your heading ??

Members here will answer as and when they get the chance, and don't forget the World Time differences !! Yes sorry to say it, but that's how it comes across ;)

HTH,
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thoughts are you should have at least have read codes before pulling the fuse etc etc because it has likely burnt out due to a leak, there would have been "Timed Out" codes now there won't.

You may get lucky the Motor Brushes do wear and the Motor then burns out, where you're at now I would start with a decent new motor ;)

By the way, what's that "Real Time Answers" all about in your heading ??

Members here will answer as and when they get the chance, and don't forget the World Time differences !! Yes sorry to say it, but that's how it comes across ;)

HTH,
The fuse didn't blow.

RTH is an abbreviation often used in another forum I follow to indicate that someone is currently working on the vehicle.
 

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S500 4Matic 2005
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@tusabes is right. If you are just transferring the motor, you do not need programming. BUT just like Dave said at this point I would look for a new pump since any other salvage yard one will be as tired if not more tired as the one that just burned out. The new pump it will need to be programmed to accommodate the features that you have in your car. Whatever you decide to go with, make sure you keep an eye out to find out what caused the old one to burn. Good luck.
 

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W220 Moderator
S500 W220 SLK320 R170 C200 CDI W203 Peugeot Expert Van
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LOL where did I mention blown fuse, you said you pulled the fuse out, which on W220 will erase PSE Module Faults. It is about the only Module that power disconnect, (battery or fuse) does erase.

Yes Tusabes is correct, doesn't need Version Coding if same PCB
 

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Discussion Starter #14
@tusabes is right. If you are just transferring the motor, you do not need programming. BUT just like Dave said at this point I would look for a new pump since any other salvage yard one will be as tired if not more tired as the one that just burned out. The new pump it will need to be programmed to accommodate the features that you have in your car. Whatever you decide to go with, make sure you keep an eye out to find out what caused the old one to burn. Good luck.
First of all...thank you for all your help and information. I love forums like this. I'm definitely a DIY guy and I like to fix rather than replace. I could never do it without think-tanks like this.

I'm sure my motor is dead. I hooked it up to 12 volts on my bench and nothing. Motors go bad sometimes.

I believe my pump and circuit board are good. The fuse didn't blow and I can hear clicking from the pump assembly when I press the key fob.

I also don't believe I'll need to re-program. I am changing just the motor which is connected only by 2 wires.

Thanks again for all the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
LOL where did I mention blown fuse, you said you pulled the fuse out, which on W220 will erase PSE Module Faults. It is about the only Module that power disconnect, (battery or fuse) does erase.

Yes Tusabes is correct, doesn't need Version Coding if same PCB
I thought you were referring to the fuse in the first paragraph when you said it likely burned out due to a leak. I don't know how I would find the leak though without first repairing the pump assembly. I pulled the fuse as a first step to see if it was blown and found it in good condition.

The pump assembly is easily accessible so using a sourced motor that may or may not be exact is worth the risk. I'm pretty sure I can get close with matching the motor.

Again, I appreciate the help.
 

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W220 Moderator
S500 W220 SLK320 R170 C200 CDI W203 Peugeot Expert Van
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Hi,

I think we got crossed wires here lol ...................

What I was saying is the usual cause of a Motor burning out in a PSE is because somewhere on one of the Doors, Trunk Seats etc there is a Vac or Pressure leak, and that will set a xxxxxxx Time Out Code.
Had you not pulled the fuse to try and reset it you could have checked out the codes, and known in advance if there is a leak, pulling the fuse or battery clears the codes, (only in PSE no other systems), hence my statement.

Sometimes they just burn out due to worn brushes through old age ;)

There is nothing to stop you fitting a new motor, indeed you need to, but just be aware that you may have to go leak finding.

As soon as it is up and running again, go round and lock / unlock / soft close / open and shut trunk, seat massage, lumbars rear headrest lowering, (and raise if it's fitted) test anything PSE powered that is fitted to your Car ;)

Don't do everything at once, you don't want to work it too hard lol, they are a bit under rated power wise IMHO, especially if you have full options ;)

It is best to test one item at a time, give it 60 - 120 seconds or so then do the next and so on :)
Now read the PSE on SDS and see if there is any codes, you are looking for "Time Out" within the words.

It does need to be checked on SDS.

If there are codes there will be a leak, and leaks cause the pump to burn out the Motor ;)

HTH,
 

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Discussion Starter #17
One of the things I want to do is contribute. Out at the salvage yard, there were 4 or 5 models that would have had a compatable PSE. All of them were gone. It seems like it's a common problem. If I can help others who don't rush to the dealership, I want to.

I've found 2 possible replacement motors. I think if I had some more info like RPM's of the motor and exact dimensions... I think could source it for less than $20 shipped to the US. I put mine back together so that we can still drive the car until the new motor arrives. We just can't lock it and have to actually close the door on our own. lol

The first one was on ebay for around $77 and I'll get it in about 10 days. https://www.ebay.com/c/7009287055

The other is on Aliexpress and will take until the first part of November to get here but it's less than $40.

2607917


If anyone has the exact measurements and RPM speed of the motor, I'd like to do a little more research.

This is all I could find online for an OEM unit. From my math, the motor itself looks like it is 45mm long by 52 mm in diameter.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hi,

I think we got crossed wires here lol ...................

What I was saying is the usual cause of a Motor burning out in a PSE is because somewhere on one of the Doors, Trunk Seats etc there is a Vac or Pressure leak, and that will set a xxxxxxx Time Out Code.
Had you not pulled the fuse to try and reset it you could have checked out the codes, and known in advance if there is a leak, pulling the fuse or battery clears the codes, (only in PSE no other systems), hence my statement.

Sometimes they just burn out due to worn brushes through old age ;)

There is nothing to stop you fitting a new motor, indeed you need to, but just be aware that you may have to go leak finding.

As soon as it is up and running again, go round and lock / unlock / soft close / open and shut trunk, seat massage, lumbars rear headrest lowering, (and raise if it's fitted) test anything PSE powered that is fitted to your Car ;)

Don't do everything at once, you don't want to work it too hard lol, they are a bit under rated power wise IMHO, especially if you have full options ;)

It is best to test one item at a time, give it 60 - 120 seconds or so then do the next and so on :)
Now read the PSE on SDS and see if there is any codes, you are looking for "Time Out" within the words.

It does need to be checked on SDS.

If there are codes there will be a leak, and leaks cause the pump to burn out the Motor ;)

HTH,
no worries here... I'm just the student here. I did ask my wife if she had any problems with the locks or lumbar support. She said that the rear passenger side doorlock sometimes was slow to unlock. I think you may be onto something.
 

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The reason the pse pumps are all gone at the self serve junkyard is eBay parts resellers - they strip all the high value parts and resell on eBay for profit .

I’m sure you can find a motor for $3,50 like the mabuchi motor from that surplus site
 

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2007 E220CDI, 1990 300E-24V, 1987 W124 3.6 AMG build 1993 E500 W124, 94 320CE, 1997 W140 S280
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Very interested to hear if someone can find a compatible aftermarket motor for these. I have soldered in used replacement pumps before to make one good PSE pump for a w220 out of 2x dead ones.

Just a titbit of info for you guys. A dude on a forum had 100 or 200 motors produced as exact replacements for the w140 pumps. These were identical to the factory units down to the screw holes and shaft was exact correct length + ground to suit the drive. Literally bolt in and solder - done. No filing no messing around. He had these made by a China motor company IIRC and they were very nice quality units.

He is still selling these motors today as he has some left over. Indeed I bought a full tray off him to service my 3 140s into the future. (12x motors)

They are not the same as the w220 motors but this approach of getting some.made would be awesome if someone was in a position to do it. I'm sure they would make a killing on Ebay too...
 
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