[ssanmor]

Thanks, babybenz, but now I am totally lost:
My car has one rotary switch at the front,...

Thanks, babybenz, but now I am totally lost:
My car has one rotary switch at the front, near the ignition ECU, with 2 positions: S and N, currently set to "S".
Behind the battery, near the fuel injection ECU, there is another one with positions from 1 to 7, currently set to "1".
Does someone know what is this mess?

BTW, I use regular 95 octane fuel.

Best regards

 

[babybenz]

The one for the timing is next to the CIS unit on the left fender (with S and N marking).
...

The one for the timing is next to the CIS unit on the left fender (with S and N marking).

I also have one behind the battery (marked 1 to 7) set to position 1 by default but I do not know what it's for.

What is the current setting on your resistor?

Cheers.

 

[Hellme]

Guys, just wanted to tell you all that you've been a great help. It's time for me to move on. This 190 has been causing me more grief than pleasure, so she's off to be swapped tomorrow (hopefully) for something less prestigious but more within my scope. For the past few months I have discovered:
1. Definite low compression on piston 3 due to...
2. Weak engine block welds (!).
3. Dead water pump, now leaking
4. Rusted (beyond recognition) heater matrix.
5. Blown coolant level/washer level sensors
6. Blown lines in dashboard loom.
7. Worn tensioner belt.
8. Worn tracking rod.
9. Worn fan viscous coupling.
10. As of yet, undiagnosed sound from drive shafts.
11. Rusted ignition leads.
12. Leaking rubber seals on trunk (leading to small lakes inside trunk)

I've fixed what I could, lived with some, and wondered how I'd make the money to buy parts needed for the rest of them. What have I learned? Never assume a relative isn't going to screw you over on a car, and never leave anything unfixed. If your Merc complains, fix it pronto, or you'll suffer the consquences later because 1) broken parts tend to ruin others 2) everything sort of fails at the same time, making fixing it that much more difficult and costly.

Thanks again for all your help

 

[jacques Guého]

Fuel check valve for fuel system for W124 E Class W126 S Class W140S Class W201 190 Class , W210E Class
Mercedes Benz A2014760232 Fuel Check Valve
This inexpensive valve that is mounted on the fuel tank may be the cause of failing fuel pumps and poor injector sprays and may even cause bad fuel consumption with the combined effects experienced.
W124/W201 Fuel Vent Valve
Part number
A 201 476 02 32
The purpose of this valve is to allow air to flow into the fuel tank when there is a vacuum of certain pressure that has built up within the fuel tank.

The vacuum is created when fuel level starts to drop [ going out via the fuel pump and to the injectors within the engine's cylinders ]. Assuming the fuel tank cap is working proper, the tank should be air tight and if the volume of fuel decreases without compensating for the reduction of fuel volume within the tank, a vacuum will be created.

Imagine the vacuum pulling the fuel back to the tank when the fuel pump is trying hard to push it to the injectors. The fuel vent valve ensures that external air is allowed in once the vacuum inside reaches a certain threshold.

A symptom to look out for will be loud air gushing sounds whenever the fuel cap is opened for refuelling at the gas stations.

At most local Singapore stockists for less than S$30, this is an inexpensive restoration that might have the most benefits. Installation of the item can be done quite swiftly at your preferred workshop.

Actual location of how it goes into the fuel tank can be found at this site [ Item 71 on the diagram]

If for any reasons, the part is not available in your region, it is recommended to release the vacuum pressure, by opening and closing the refuelling cap, before you begin a new trip on your W124/W201.