Ok, I received my 190E 1.8 about 5 days ago, and I've been trying to compile a list of things that need fixing. I knew the car had some pretty major engine problems before I bought it, and because I am strapped for cash, I'm happy doing most of work myself if I can. I just need to find out what the problems are and prioritize the order with which I'll fix things. Any help suggesting what to fix first is much appreciated.
You guys seem to know your cars pretty well, so I'll just list down symptons and what I think the problem is. Any input on things that I don't know or mistakes that I've made will be great. Also, if you could tell me whether changes and replacements are easy enough to be done at home, I'd appreciate that.
This is going to be a long read, but I really do need the help.
Symptons
--------
Hard startes, needs a good nudge on gas while starting, sometimes more than once. Starte motor sounds fine. Right after it starts, sputtering with plenty of engine knock, like its running on 3 cylinders instead of 4. Also, if the car is slightly cold, it will sputter on acceleration from a stand still, knocking all through first up to second gear, but sometimes it doesn't do that. The car is as smooth as butter above 40mph though, and on the motorway, it runs great, purring its way happily at 70mph. It has no problem looking for gear.
My diagnosis
------------
I know from the car's previous owner that the spark plugs need replacing. I'm guessing they explain the hard start and the sputtering, as well as the knock during acceleration from a standstill. I'm also suspecting a set of dirty fuel injectors, or clogged fuel rail.
Symptoms
--------
Chain noise from bottom right of car at idle, as well as rolling starts, up to 30mph. No grating noise, just sounds like a loose chain.
My diagnosis
------------
No clue. It doesn't seem to be affecting performance, it's just a noise, but I'm concerned it might be something serious that needs to be looked at.
Symptoms
--------
Car overheats in stuck traffic. Temperature shoots past 80 while oil pressure is 2.something. If the car is in D at a stoplight, the car shakes, threatening to stall. Once shifted into neutral, it idles at 1000rpm, which I think is too high.
My diagnosis
------------
I'm sure the water pump needs replacing, and maybe a radiator and cooling system flush. There is defintely no coolant loss because I check the reservoir bottle every day and it hasn't moved, which means I'm not losing water. The previous owner told me the water pump defintely needs replacing (find out why below). That explains the overheating, but doesn't explain the stall threat in D.
Symptoms
--------
On full wheel lock, the car stalls, in both D and R.
My diagnosis
------------
Previous owner told me he blew the head gasket while stuck in traffic in London. The car overheated (due to faulty water pump), and they got his engine block welded. The technicians told him that there was 'compression' loss and that was why the car stalled on full wheel lock. To me, that doesn't make sense because the car runs like silk over 40mph. I've tried kickdowns and the car will happily go for hours at 80. The acceleration is pretty impressive, and eventhough I've never experienced the 1.8's performance, I can tell it has gobs of torque. I can't see how there is compression issues in one of the cylinders. Also, my old man has an 84 200, and it had the same problem (nearly stalling on full wheel lock). Turned out to be electrical. In my car, the alternator and battery have been recently replaced.
This car probably sounds like a dump, and in all likelihood it probably is. I have to live with it for a while, so I have to figure a way to keep it in running order without dishing out a fortune for a new engine. Gradually though, I would like to fix it up, slap on an intake and resell it.
Besides getting rid of it, what do I need to do? Cheers to all who've helped me so far.
You guys seem to know your cars pretty well, so I'll just list down symptons and what I think the problem is. Any input on things that I don't know or mistakes that I've made will be great. Also, if you could tell me whether changes and replacements are easy enough to be done at home, I'd appreciate that.
This is going to be a long read, but I really do need the help.
Symptons
--------
Hard startes, needs a good nudge on gas while starting, sometimes more than once. Starte motor sounds fine. Right after it starts, sputtering with plenty of engine knock, like its running on 3 cylinders instead of 4. Also, if the car is slightly cold, it will sputter on acceleration from a stand still, knocking all through first up to second gear, but sometimes it doesn't do that. The car is as smooth as butter above 40mph though, and on the motorway, it runs great, purring its way happily at 70mph. It has no problem looking for gear.
My diagnosis
------------
I know from the car's previous owner that the spark plugs need replacing. I'm guessing they explain the hard start and the sputtering, as well as the knock during acceleration from a standstill. I'm also suspecting a set of dirty fuel injectors, or clogged fuel rail.
Symptoms
--------
Chain noise from bottom right of car at idle, as well as rolling starts, up to 30mph. No grating noise, just sounds like a loose chain.
My diagnosis
------------
No clue. It doesn't seem to be affecting performance, it's just a noise, but I'm concerned it might be something serious that needs to be looked at.
Symptoms
--------
Car overheats in stuck traffic. Temperature shoots past 80 while oil pressure is 2.something. If the car is in D at a stoplight, the car shakes, threatening to stall. Once shifted into neutral, it idles at 1000rpm, which I think is too high.
My diagnosis
------------
I'm sure the water pump needs replacing, and maybe a radiator and cooling system flush. There is defintely no coolant loss because I check the reservoir bottle every day and it hasn't moved, which means I'm not losing water. The previous owner told me the water pump defintely needs replacing (find out why below). That explains the overheating, but doesn't explain the stall threat in D.
Symptoms
--------
On full wheel lock, the car stalls, in both D and R.
My diagnosis
------------
Previous owner told me he blew the head gasket while stuck in traffic in London. The car overheated (due to faulty water pump), and they got his engine block welded. The technicians told him that there was 'compression' loss and that was why the car stalled on full wheel lock. To me, that doesn't make sense because the car runs like silk over 40mph. I've tried kickdowns and the car will happily go for hours at 80. The acceleration is pretty impressive, and eventhough I've never experienced the 1.8's performance, I can tell it has gobs of torque. I can't see how there is compression issues in one of the cylinders. Also, my old man has an 84 200, and it had the same problem (nearly stalling on full wheel lock). Turned out to be electrical. In my car, the alternator and battery have been recently replaced.
This car probably sounds like a dump, and in all likelihood it probably is. I have to live with it for a while, so I have to figure a way to keep it in running order without dishing out a fortune for a new engine. Gradually though, I would like to fix it up, slap on an intake and resell it.
Besides getting rid of it, what do I need to do? Cheers to all who've helped me so far.
