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1985 300E US Champagne, 1978 280SE Euro Milan Brown Metallic, Gen1 1985 500 SEC Euro Paget Red
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105 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I need a full weatherstripping kit to install after the paint job.
This side door was quite a mess; someone put a bumper into it, but luckily only the door and window were damaged. The trim/molding and glass on the driver door is from a donor car. I've been trying to find a complete door to save the time fixing this one, but there is only one nearby, and the owner is reluctant to part with it, even though he's got no engine,trans and the body is totaled. I'm not going to get into that though...
Anyhow, this one is as straight as I can get it without re-skinning, which was another option, but I couldn't find a source for door skins.
The sheet metal was pretty badly stretched, and will never be completely straight, but from this far back in primer I can't really tell. When it gets a black base coat with high polish clear, THEN we'll see how bad a job I did.



So... black with clear or something else? The trim will be body color.

thanks for lookin
 

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Mercedes
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9,043 Posts
Personally I would have removed the mirror and door handle prior to painting. The chrome trim on the door and rear corner are easily removed. I would paint them separately and then install once ready.

Regarding paint color, are you going with a metallic or non-metallic black? If non-metallic, you don't necessarily need clear coat.
 

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1985 300E US Champagne, 1978 280SE Euro Milan Brown Metallic, Gen1 1985 500 SEC Euro Paget Red
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105 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks for the tip. The lower cladding and trim was all primed separately. I test fit it for this picture to make sure the door looks straight. It's not perfect yet; to get the crease where the door metal meets the top of the lower cladding is difficult. I'll have to glaze it and sand it a few times to get it close enough.

The door handle is actually masked out, but I do want it out so that the rubber doesn't get painted over and end up letting water under the paint etc.. I do need to take it off, because the guys who are doing the final paint would just paint right over the rubber, or mask it and hope they don't get any overspray. Once there is room for it in the paint shop, all that stuff is coming off.
Initially I thought that the trim would be OK without removing it, but the gaps between the body and the trim get dust in them, and that looks like shit if you paint over it.

I think it will be non-metallic. I haven't seen a metallic job done by these guys, so I'm not sure if I want to risk it.
thanks,
-b
 

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1990 560 SEL with Euro engine, 1998 SL500 Sport
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2,957 Posts
Good luck with your project. It's not an easy job by any means so I commend you for trying....

Agree on the side mirror. It comes off very easily and will be a lot easier to paint anyway.
I would also remove the door handles. It takes less time to remove those than it takes to properly mask them. You really want the paint to be underneath the door handles instead of butting up to it.

Black is a tough color because it shows every imperfection so I would make sure the door dings are all as smooth as possible.
 

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1985 300E US Champagne, 1978 280SE Euro Milan Brown Metallic, Gen1 1985 500 SEC Euro Paget Red
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105 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, I'll give them a call.
Blue island is about a half hour drive in the parts truck.
 

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'70 280S-'73 450SLC-'81 380SL-'84 500SEC Euro-'92 300SL24-'95 E320
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984 Posts
The car will retain a higher residual value if you keep it the original color, but to each their own. I'm sure whatever you choose, it will look great. Just my $.02
dws
 

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1990 560 SEL with Euro engine, 1998 SL500 Sport
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2,957 Posts
The car will retain a higher residual value if you keep it the original color, but to each their own. I'm sure whatever you choose, it will look great. Just my $.02
dws
I personally don't think it really matters that much. Our cars are already at rock bottom so I say so what if you get $1,000 less for it than if it were original color?

It is however far more costly to change colors (to do it properly)... so that's a consideration if you don't want to lose even more due to the higher paint cost.
 

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1989 560 SEC,1991 300 SEL, 1985 380 SL-Sold, 1982 300 Turbo Diesel-Parts Car
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160 Posts
FS: SEC Doors $125 & Trunk $95
Hello everyone,

I have the driver's and passenger side door and a trunk off of a W126 chassis SEC. There is a key included that works for both doors. Both doors are rust & dent free. The driver's side door is missing the door panel. Both doors have good window glass. The trunk is missing the Mercedes emblem. They are all burgundy colored exterior pieces from the same car.

$125 each for the SEC doors, and $95 for the trunk.

PM or call Denis @ 301-964-7355
 

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560SL,380SL
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4,012 Posts
It IS possible to get metal reasonably straight, and then skim coat GOOD bondo and block sand. It's a lot of work but it pays off later in the process. Ironically, the better the paint turns out (featureless and shiny), the more important a perfect body becomes. It's possible to put "too good" of a paint job on a non-straight car!

Metallic paint hides a lot, but not everything...
 

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1985 300E US Champagne, 1978 280SE Euro Milan Brown Metallic, Gen1 1985 500 SEC Euro Paget Red
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105 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
strife2:
I just can't get the overall bulge out of the door. It's smooth, but not as straight along the body lines as the pass. side door. It's the stretching problem. I'm not sure it will shrink any more than I've been able to do with a torch and water quenching. After all, if it takes 10+ hours to get nearly straight, might as well get another door!
I have the paint:
Jet black + high gloss clear with super slow activators considering the weather lately.
A really high gloss jet black is going to need absolutely perfect panels, so I'm wet sanding a few hours a day. FUN!
Denism: will PM about the doors.
 

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Premium Member
2012 CL550 4MATIC Coupe
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9,992 Posts
For God's sake, take off the antenna too! It's only two screws! The door handles come off easily, read my door handle rebuild thread and it will show you how to take apart the coupe door handles to paint the guards body color like I did mine. It's fairly easy to do.

Also, I would roll the windows down and then take off the rubber molding and then take off the chrome arches over the windows. That too is a bit of a pain, and you have to make sure you re-seal them properly to keep water and rain out.

Then mask out the window area while open.
 

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1985 300E US Champagne, 1978 280SE Euro Milan Brown Metallic, Gen1 1985 500 SEC Euro Paget Red
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105 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
It's all coming off now. i have to find someone to remove the front/rear glass and figure out how to get the door strips off without damaging them.
I'm using the primer in the photo as a guide coat now. It will mostly be sanded off before sealing the whole thing with 2k epoxy.
 

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'82 Euro 500SEL, '85 Euro 500SEC AMG WB Cabriolet,'86 Euro 500SEC RUF
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9,487 Posts
If you are pulling the windshield and back glass, I would take it to Saflite and pay them to remove and replace after the paint. Well worth the bucks. I had them remove the bad back gkass and replace it with a backglass I got from a yard. Cost $100. Well worth the time and money and I didn't break the glass which is why I had it professionally done.
 

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1985 300E US Champagne, 1978 280SE Euro Milan Brown Metallic, Gen1 1985 500 SEC Euro Paget Red
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105 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
If you are pulling the windshield and back glass, I would take it to Saflite and pay them to remove and replace after the paint. Well worth the bucks. I had them remove the bad back gkass and replace it with a backglass I got from a yard. Cost $100. Well worth the time and money and I didn't break the glass which is why I had it professionally done.
Yeah I don't mess with pulling glass out either. I have a Safelite down the street.
I'm going to have them do the glass at the painter's shop if I can.
The rear rubber is in good shape, although it leaks at the left corner.
There's no delam on the rear glass yet. It's mostly been kept inside.
The front rubber I'd like to replace. It's had the most UV exposure. Where to get that and the window felts?
 

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Premium Member
2012 CL550 4MATIC Coupe
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9,992 Posts
The rear glass should come out, and that should def be done professionally as Charlie suggested.

The front windshield should NOT need to come out at all. Just take the two side gutters off. They have a rubber seal that hides the screws. Take those two sides off, then take off the chrome molding that surrounds the windshield. You can then easily mask just the glass. The glass is glued on and that joint is covered with the chrome trim which has a nice overlap.

The rear glass has the seal all around that pates to the painted surface, so that should be removed, and then replace the seal. They are like $100.00. Get only OEM, not the crap aftermarket one.
 

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Premium Member
2012 CL550 4MATIC Coupe
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9,992 Posts
Here are some pics of my car when she was being prepped and painted:
 

Attachments

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Premium Member
2012 CL550 4MATIC Coupe
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9,992 Posts
Here is my door handle removal and dis-assembly thread: HERE

I put all of the pics in a zip file at the end of the thread for reference.
 

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'84 500 SEC Euro 040 black Lorinser 2005 sl500
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2,516 Posts
The front windshield should NOT need to come out at all. Just take the two side gutters off. They have a rubber seal that hides the screws. Take those two sides off, then take off the chrome molding that surrounds the windshield. You can then easily mask just the glass. The glass is glued on and that joint is covered with the chrome trim which has a nice overlap.
Really good advice here to help keep cost down regarding the front windshield. Once you get the trim off, it is very easy to mask as mentioned above if your glass is not going to be replaced.You will see that once the trim is off, the glass is 3 or 4 m away from the painted surface. No reason to pull the glass it at all, just the trim.

The rear glass seal is much more expensive now(1266700239). The Mercedes dealer charge (list) is now $256.00 but through parts.com the cost would be $183.60. Buy it now for as low as you can get it because it seems to be going up in price.
 
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