There is a seal kit available in the EPC. The only problem mine had was a bad leak from the side of the box where a metal plug slides in, seals with an O-ring, and is fixed in place with a circlip. I ordered the plug, o-ring, and circlip. Installing them eliminated my leak. All the parts were under $30 total, but if I was really cheap, probably just the o-ring would have done it for about a buck.
If you've got other issues like bearing wear, side play in the pitman shaft, etc. then you're into a full rebuild and the parts in there aren't cheap. I looked over the workshop manual for doing it back when I wasn't sure where my leak was coming from and they did have a bunch of special tools and things, but it's probably something that could be done by someone pretty mechanically inclined. You'd need the workshop manual instructions for sure though.
Boy that response is a ray of sunshine[xx(]. Mine has TONS of play in it. I have worked out all the other loose spots in the bushings etc. and this is all that is left and is the main problem. I can turn the wheel a fair amount before it turns the pitman arm.
The play is adjustable up to a point. There is a screw with a lock nut on the upper face of the box. You loosen the lock nut while holding the screw in place. Then unscrew the screw (needs to move out and away from the center of the box) to reduce play.
Do this a little bit at a time. If you can't adjust it so that you have reasonable play and smooth return to center, it's worn out. At that point the worn out parts are the big items, not seals.
That is correct but anti-clockwise is the direction to tighten it. Lubricate the threads so the locknut is easy to turn down as you adjust it. Opposite of most other steering boxes. If you over tighten it will kill the box fast so go a little at a time and test it. As Alan said, you want the wheel to return to center after turning without resistance and a small amount of free play at the wheel. MB power steering boxes are often "adjusted" by alignment shops who do not understand how they work.
As long as there's no side-play in the bearings of the input or output shaft, then a simple adjustment will probably take care of it. Like the others said though, don't try to remove ALL the steering wheel play, and make sure you check the resistance to turning at the steering wheel ALL THE WAY from lock to lock. It can feel loose in the middle and significantly tighter near the ends of the steering wheel travel, or vice-versa, can be tight in the middle and looser at the ends.
You don't want it to lock up on you in a corner somewhere. But as long as you check it all the way through the travel, and leave some play at the tightest point, you'll be fine.
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