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2004 CLK320, 2000 CL500 (my moms now), 2006 C230, 2004 CLK500, 2001 CLK430 (x2) (sold)
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Discussion Starter #1
The power assist on my passenger door quits a lot. You then have to close it harder, like a normal door to fully close it. I've unhooked the battery which seems to reset them over bringing it to the shop to have the code erased which costs A bill each time. Now the drivers door & trunk seem to be starting the same thing...

I only found 2 threads about the assist problems and neither seemed to be similar to my problem. There's been no "pops" and they work fine after I unhook the battery for several seconds. I don't hear any air leaking noises either.. Does anyone know what the problem might be?
 

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Any idea where and what the fuse location is for cl500 2003' my lock and power assist are not working on passenger side.
Thanks!
 

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2004 CLK320, 2000 CL500 (my moms now), 2006 C230, 2004 CLK500, 2001 CLK430 (x2) (sold)
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104 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Fuse in below the passenger side rear seat. Behind where you feet would be if sitting there. There's a hidden cover that pops off... I *think* it's a 15 amp one, possibly blue.. Don't remember exactly. I found which one it was on here somewhere.
 

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Lots of collector cars from the 50's to present
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Most of the time

I find that if a specific door or trunk is not woring and everything else is, it is usually the actuator on that particular door or the trunk. I find removing the trunk unit you can fix most all the vacuum leaks on those. The diaphragm unit either leaks of one of the check ball plug splits. Use a 1 minute epoxy to seal that area. Put a vacuum pump on and check to make sure the unit holds vacuum. Make sure you plug the outlet with a rubber nipple. If it doesn't hold air keep pumping with your hand pump until you find the leak and then seal it. I just happed to fix my trunk yesterday. Even though it was under warranty, I have replaced that 3 time and the car only has 7,500 miles. I found that at one of the check balls the plastic was splitting. I used the epoxy on all of the ends and it hold vacuum perfectly now. I was finished in less than an hour. It was just easier than having to drop it off and wait for them to repair it and I wanted it fixed right then. On another car the diaphragm housing was cracked so I used epoxy on it as well. Worked perfectly. If you have a leak in the system it will effect other systems as well. I do find on these cars if you do not close the door to the right position and you leave it to long it will time out and then you do have to disconnect the battery to reset the system. If your having to do it all the time, I'm would venture to say your unit in the door might have a leak. Take it out, put a hand vacuum pump on it. If it doesn't hold air, epoxy the leak and put it back in. Now if your windows do not close fast enough then that is an indication that the pump is failing. The others are the usual suspects, leaks in the plastic. They used the worst chemical compounds on those and they have always leaked, once the plastic starts aging or is in a hot climate. Good luck and let us know how it works out.
 

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2004 CLK320, 2000 CL500 (my moms now), 2006 C230, 2004 CLK500, 2001 CLK430 (x2) (sold)
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104 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I find that if a specific door or trunk is not woring and everything else is, it is usually the actuator on that particular door or the trunk. I find removing the trunk unit you can fix most all the vacuum leaks on those. The diaphragm unit either leaks of one of the check ball plug splits. Use a 1 minute epoxy to seal that area. Put a vacuum pump on and check to make sure the unit holds vacuum. Make sure you plug the outlet with a rubber nipple. If it doesn't hold air keep pumping with your hand pump until you find the leak and then seal it. I just happed to fix my trunk yesterday. Even though it was under warranty, I have replaced that 3 time and the car only has 7,500 miles. I found that at one of the check balls the plastic was splitting. I used the epoxy on all of the ends and it hold vacuum perfectly now. I was finished in less than an hour. It was just easier than having to drop it off and wait for them to repair it and I wanted it fixed right then. On another car the diaphragm housing was cracked so I used epoxy on it as well. Worked perfectly. If you have a leak in the system it will effect other systems as well. I do find on these cars if you do not close the door to the right position and you leave it to long it will time out and then you do have to disconnect the battery to reset the system. If your having to do it all the time, I'm would venture to say your unit in the door might have a leak. Take it out, put a hand vacuum pump on it. If it doesn't hold air, epoxy the leak and put it back in. Now if your windows do not close fast enough then that is an indication that the pump is failing. The others are the usual suspects, leaks in the plastic. They used the worst chemical compounds on those and they have always leaked, once the plastic starts aging or is in a hot climate. Good luck and let us know how it works out.
Thanks for the info. So, since it was just the passenger door then the drivers door and trunk started to not work also, would that be a good indication that the leak is probably somewhere on the pass door line/connectors?
When you said, "if the windows do not close fast enough" do you mean that last fraction of an inch which makes the windows seat up properly? It does seem like it takes awhile. More so when the car isn't running (I think). But if the power assist isn't working and you close them like a regular car door, they go up within 2 seconds. In some cases it takes them over 5 seconds, especially the pass side. So then, my pump is going bad? Or could a leak make it do that too, possibly?
 

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If I were you, instead of chasing your tail, take it to someone who has a Star system, (dealer) have it diagnosed. They will tell you exactly what it is. A leak or a bad pump or both. If they say the pump is weak, leave it alone. If they tell you the pump isn't putting out enough volume, find one that someone will warranty on line. They are about 300 used. Easy to install. If it is the door actuator the diagnostic will also tell you. If its a leak they will have to find out where the leak is. Usually the trunk is the culprit. Usually you will hear a HISSSS from the trunk and it wont latch and make that final click which will time out the system and then cause the door not to close or the unit system to malfunction. A reset of taking off the NEG and putting it back on will put the system back in order but like I said if there is a leak it will trip again and again. Listen for leaks. Even the lock for the gas door could be bad. They are all the same puck basically just attached to a part differently. Keep us posted
 

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2001 CL 500
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Can someone describe where to find this vacuum actuator for the trunk? (hockey puk..?)
In my case the remote does unlock the trunk, same with the switch on the door, however the trunk cover will not raise up or go down automatically, also to when pressing the down switch in the trunk. Hydraulic rods are new - replaced by previous owner. I can hear the click of the menchanical switch but no noise from pump or similar.
I read in some of the treads that tightens of the actuator may help to eliminate pressure release but I am not sure where to find this unit...

Thank you for any help
 

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First of all, when the lid closes or opens do you hear a hissing from the rear at the license plate that goes for about 30 seconds? If you do not hear a hissing when the lid closes or opens then it is not the puck it is more than likely the unit itself, meaning the hydraulic unit not the puck unit. It is located at the side above the battery. Keep in mind the trunk has two systems, the pneumatic one and they hydraulic one. It sounds to me as though the hydraulic part of the system is bad. usually the hydraulic rod that has an electrical connection at the end. That is, like I said ,above the battery in the trunk. You will need to remove the carpet on the RH side and see if the rod has leaked out the fluid and use an ohm meter to see if there is actually power going to the rod itself. If that rod is no good then it must be replaced. The puck only releases the vacuum and pulls the lid closed at the end of they cycle.
 

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2001 CL 500
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Ok, so no hissing sound come up from the back when either closing or openning the lid.
the power assist works as when I lower the trunk lid almost to the end it will catch up and pull the lid.
Next step (weekend) will be to remove carpet on RH and investigate the power unit and Hydraulics
;-( hoped for a quick and easy one for a change ..
 

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That's great you will just need replace the electro hydraulic mechanism so that it will pull the unit open and closed. Hold on to your shorts they are NOT cheap. They do snap on like lifts do. I would remove the wire and take an OHM meter to the wire and have someone hit the open and close button on the door after you remove the unit. If there is power going to the piston then your wiring and power is good. If you do not have power going to the piston then you will need to trace and find out why. My friend had to replace his harness because it wasn't working. So, make sure before you spend a penny that you test before replacing parts. You might find that your rod is wet and that means the seal that holds the pressure is gone and then you know its the unit itself.
 

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2001 CL500 - Tansanite Blue - 19" AMG rims
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@mrkauz, did you have any joy fixing this problem?
Mine has started to do the same over the last few days, pressing the remote flashes the lights etc but won't lock/unlock the car. I need to use the key to physically lock/unlock or open the boot (trunk)
 

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Replace the transmitter in the drivers door handle and all will be just fine. You must take your DL and registration to the parts counter with the VIN. They will 2nd day you a new IR emitter which will either come painted to match or flat black. Remove the old IR emitter from your painted key handle by turning it and pulling it out and replacing the old with the new. The door key and emitter held in place with one screw at the door edge behind the rubber seal. A star screw holds it in not a Phillips or flat head It takes all of 10 minutes to do the complete job and everything will work as original. The circuit board dries out and allows moisture to get into the electronics shorting it out.
 

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2001 CL500 - Tansanite Blue - 19" AMG rims
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The power assist on my passenger door quits a lot. You then have to close it harder, like a normal door to fully close it. I've unhooked the battery which seems to reset them over bringing it to the shop to have the code erased which costs A bill each time. Now the drivers door & trunk seem to be starting the same thing...

I only found 2 threads about the assist problems and neither seemed to be similar to my problem. There's been no "pops" and they work fine after I unhook the battery for several seconds. I don't hear any air leaking noises either.. Does anyone know what the problem might be?
I've been having the same problem and after some research I located a fuse that controls these items:
f62 20A central locking,
power locking,
rear headrest - release,
rear headrest - adjustment,
trunk lid - remote closing and locking ,
trunk lid - remote release ,
trunk - interior unlocking switch
Upon removing this fuse it has indeed blown, the trouble is, once I replaced the fuse and tried to operate the door/central locking etc it blew again.
I will try to investigate further later on, lets hope is something simple ...
 
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