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1995 E320 Cabriolet on wish list
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've talked with several people here about the "ecologically friendly" wire insulation that was used in the mid-90s E320s, and how they found out the hard way that it tended to deteriorate and crumble after a number of years; and how Mercedes had replaced most of them by now with decent insulated wires. "Replacing the engine wiring harness" was high on everybody's list of thing to make sure had been done to your E320.

But the engine wiring harness is only part of the wiring in the car, obviously. It's probably the most highly stressed, with thermal and vibration variances all over the scale.

But lots of other wiring goes under the dash, to the switches and light on the center console, to the power windows, to the convertible top motor and controls, to the brakelights etc. And ALL that other wiring, also had the eco-junk insulation at birth, didn't it?

Is it the consensus that wire insulation outside the engine compartment, is less likely to deteriorate over the years? And so it doesn't need to be replaced, even when you replace the engine wiring harness?

This relates to the 95 E320 Cabriolet I looked at the other day. It had a year-old battery, but didn't seem to be charging it very well. On a voltmeter, charge voltage was around 12V with the engine idling, and barely rose to 13V when revved. I'm more used to seeing 13.5V to 14V on Fords, Toyotas, Mitsubishis, and VWs.

Some here have said that the car might have a bad voltage regulator on the alternator. That's understandable... but if true, then what might have killed the voltage regulator? Some eco-junk wiring shorting to other wires or to metal in the car, and producing intermittent current spikes? I don't know if the engine wiring harness has been replaced.

Carfax said the engine head gasket and engine mounts had been replaced, plus a lot of more routine maintenance, by Westwood Mercedes in Los Angeles in 2006. Carfax never mentions electrical system checks or replacement of any wiring, but Carfax can miss stuff.

Even if this car has had the engine harness replaced, might the wiring in other parts of the car be causing problems? Anybody had such a thing happen to them, due to eco-junk wiring that ISN'T in the engine compartment, and so didn't get replaced??
 

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'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
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...

Some here have said that the car might have a bad voltage regulator on the alternator. That's understandable... but if true, then what might have killed the voltage regulator? ...
Worn carbon brushes that are part of the regulator.

Remember, the whole car is made with eco junk wiring BUT the most affected areas are the engine harnesses, throttle body, starter harness, transmission harness, aux fan harness.

The ONLY way to verify is to find the build date tag on the component(s) in question. Anything made prior to 1998 is eco junk.
 

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1995 E320 Cabriolet on wish list
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31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you, sbaert. I'm worried that something outside the voltage regulator, might have killed it - such as an intermittently-shorting wire someplace that puts wildly varying loads on it. If that's the case, then replacing the regulator might simply result in another dead regulator a week later.

I'll look under the battery for any date I can find for the wiring harness.
 

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BTW, do l need any special tools to replace an alternator in an E320 Cabriolet, or replace a voltage regulator?

I've replaced them in Mitsubishis, Fords, and VWs, and done lots of other work, I have all the "usual" hand tools in both SAE and metric. But I've never worked on a Mercedes, and I've heard those sometimes need Mercedes-only custom tools for some jobs. Is this one of them?
 

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2014 G550, 2000 SL500, 1995 E320 Cabriolet, 1980 TR8
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Also, the voltage regulator can be replaced with the alternator in-place.
 

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E320, 1994, 1995
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You only have to first disconnect the battery, raise the car (make sure it is secured with Jack stands), remove the bottom cover, and crawl underneath. You will see the alternator on the passenger side of the engine. Remove the two electric wires on it. Remove three screws holding the back cover. Use a screw driver to open three taps and push off the cover. You then see the voltage regulator with its brushes sitting on the alternator shaft. There are two screws holding the regulator. Remove the screws and the regulator comes out easily. Check the brush length. If it is quite low, replace it with a new one. A new one is about $30.
 
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