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But let’s take four steps back to the orginial question a popping sound from the speakers .

Would a fiber optic cable cause that?

He stated mostly the tweeters. Are they bad?

Is it a bad amp? My local pick a part charges 18 for them. They are very easy to pull out and pop in. I believe but not 100% sure all siginals are processed in the amp.

The head unit? Most problems I have heard that it causes is volume flucation or sound loss

So any ideas on how to determine for sure what’s at fault?
 

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2015 ML250 Bluetec | 2019 GLC 300 | Prev: | 2002 ML 500 Sport Edition :( | 2012 C250 | 1998 C230
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But let’s take four steps back to the orginial question a popping sound from the speakers .

Would a fiber optic cable cause that?

He stated mostly the tweeters. Are they bad?

Is it a bad amp? My local pick a part charges 18 for them. They are very easy to pull out and pop in. I believe but not 100% sure all siginals are processed in the amp.

The head unit? Most problems I have heard that it causes is volume flucation or sound loss

So any ideas on how to determine for sure what’s at fault?
The amps don't go bad. It's the MCS's.

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They can if there was a leaking sunroof drain.
Sunroof drain is on the passenger side of the vehicle, and the amp is under the steering column tucked up high. I'm not following.

Are you basing this off of any particular case/experience?





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VX7020 -- Jensen

And Jimmy's info below.



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Thanks! Would you happen to know his username on here so I can reach out to him through here first?

I’ll probably just have him repair it. I dislike aftermarket stuff very much. Especially headunits. I just love the look and feel of factory/oem stuff. No matter how old it is.
 

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Thanks! Would you happen to know his username on here so I can reach out to him through here first?

I’ll probably just have him repair it. I dislike aftermarket stuff very much. Especially headunits. I just love the look and feel of factory/oem stuff. No matter how old it is.
Dude...I can't do everything for you. I don't know if he has a user name here. I don't know if he's still active. I gave you his damn phone number -- PICK UP THE PHONE AND CALL HIM

What I could do, and have, is search the forums, which you didn't do, for this very information and tell you that you have a 20+ year old piece of tech that is failing and provide you with the only real viable option.

If you don't like the advice of the pro's around here, then don't ask for it.

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Sunroof drain is on the passenger side of the vehicle, and the amp is under the steering column tucked up high. I'm not following.

Are you basing this off of any particular case/experience?





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There are 4 sunroof drains one each corner.
 

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There are 4 sunroof drains one each corner.
You're reaching brother, and this has become way off topic.

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You're reaching brother, and this has become way off topic.

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You asked how an amp can go bad. I told you. I was trying to get back on topic.

Both the driver side and passager side have been known to leak. Or elbow cracks.

Passenger can cause fuse box (footwell kickpanel)issues.

Drivers side amp and anti theft components amp can be water damaged.
 

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You asked how an amp can go bad. I told you. I was trying to get back on topic.

Both the driver side and passager side have been known to leak. Or elbow cracks.

Passenger can cause fuse box (footwell kickpanel)issues.

Drivers side amp and anti theft components amp can be water damaged.
Amp wouldnt be touched by water. Fuse panel and foot level, yes. Not Bose amp on the w163's. Physics improbability.

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I think the ML would be in a lake for the amp to get wet.


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Thanks! Would you happen to know his username on here so I can reach out to him through here first?

I’ll probably just have him repair it. I dislike aftermarket stuff very much. Especially headunits. I just love the look and feel of factory/oem stuff. No matter how old it is.
Jimmy has an eBay presence. believe number one issue with ml head units is no sound at all, if speaker popping is a precursor I don’t know. A 7$ chip on the optic out put goes bad replace sound.

Here is a link to his eBay offer. Just don’t want to see you throw money at an issue if it is with another component.


 

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Jimmy has an eBay presence. believe number one issue with ml head units is no sound at all, if speaker popping is a precursor I don’t know. A 7$ chip on the optic out put goes bad replace sound.

Here is a link to his eBay offer. Just don’t want to see you throw money at an issue if it is with another component.


So.....likely the MCS as I said, not the Bose amp that could have miraculously been drenched in a hurricane under the steering column?

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But let’s take four steps back to the orginial question a popping sound from the speakers .

1) Would a fiber optic cable cause that?

2) He stated mostly the tweeters. Are they bad?

3) Is it a bad amp? My local pick a part charges 18 for them. They are very easy to pull out and pop in. I believe but not 100% sure all siginals are processed in the amp.

The head unit? Most problems I have heard that it causes is volume flucation or sound loss

So any ideas on how to determine for sure what’s at fault?
1) & 2) Both can be an issue.

3) The amp can also be the problem, as was, in my case.
In my double din swap posting just over a year ago, I mentioned the oem FO amp was gutted (essentially used as a wiring conduit and easy to re-purpose in the same location with the connector on the DS of the amp to connect to the existing harness for the oem speakers.) I was too lazy then, to swap out/change the speaker wiring and the oem speakers. Perhaps another day when when I get the urge.
What I did not mention in that thread is that the FO amp was already on the fritz and was ready to swap that out along with a replacement updated double din. I chose a smaller (physically) sized amp, higher power than oem, as suggested my members of previous past. I was going to replace the oem FO amp with the one shown here. Dont recall the brand - still have it boxed (to be used in the 500e wip.)

btw, double din does have a cd player....which I have never used. I dont even recall why I even purchased this unit with a cd player. Probably, a thrifty deal on the DD I couldnt pass up.

Screen Shot 2020-05-09 at 12.26.30 AM.png Screen Shot 2020-05-09 at 12.36.47 AM.png
 

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So.....likely the MCS as I said, not the Bose amp that could have miraculously been drenched in a hurricane under the steering column?

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Please read though i this case it was not the amp that got wet

 

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Please read though i this case it was not the amp that got wet

Not applicable. We're talking about completely different sections of the car. Give it a rest. Enjoy your Friday night.

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Amp wouldnt be touched by water. Fuse panel and foot level, yes. Not Bose amp on the w163's. Physics improbability.

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Beg to differ. I've repaired a few clogged DS sunroof drains and hoses both sides and in the cowl.
All documented.
Water overflow goes awol. It finds the path of least resistance.

Proximity of amp to the emerg brake cable. It's a tight space up there. And working on an old back upsidedown isnt fun.

Screen Shot 2020-05-09 at 12.43.16 AM.png
 

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I typed this in a-not so clear fashion I said
“believe number one issue with ml head units is no sound at all, if speaker popping is a precursor I don’t know.”

I meant;

“Believe me number one issue with ml head units is no sound at all. If speaker popping is a precursor I don’t know.
Replacing a 7 dollar chip fixes the no sound issue”.

Hope this clears up any confusion.

For anyone wanting a DIY on chip replacement. You will need 20/20 vision at a minimum.

 

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I've been a component level bench tech for over 40 years.. My short answer is: Unless you've promised your dying mother that you would never get rid of the MCS in the ML.. Chunk it.. get your yourself a new unit.. Everybody that's put up the "pros".. is exactly right.. Put your CDs on a thumb drive.. I've got 400 plus songs on mine..


Now we'll go into what you are hearing... If it's a cracking noise that's ended with a loud pop.. That's a semiconductor junction break down (could be anywhere, head unit and/or power amp).. And unless the tech that's working on the unit has seen it 1000 times, and can put his finger on it right away.. It's a long, time consuming possess to track it down.. If it's an intermittent (as you say) break down, with no rhyme or reason.. That's the most difficult repair a tech wants to face.. BIG BUCKS ($100 plus for starters)... And can turn into several trips to the shop because you, as a tech may have just thought you had found the problem..

Did a Sony receiver last week.. Blown driver chip in the final power amp.. easy 1, 2, 3.. Guy takes it home, 10 minutes later he's on the phone, " it's cracking and popping"... He brings it back.. It's was opened up for several days on my bench, before I could catch it doing it.. It had nothing to do with the original repair.. Just got a message from the guy last night.. "It's been running great!".. He's happy,.. I'm happy.. that I'm not going to have to look at it again..
That is,. not until it's at least out of warranty.. (standard electronics warranty,.. 90 days)..


PS.. look at the "Chip replacement video"... I noticed he didn't show you pulling up a surface mounted chip or putting back on the board... If you've never done it before, don't even try it on something you want to save.. Go find some junk electronics and practice a lot before you destroy the board that you are trying to repair..
 

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Thanks Bobby for the insight, just did not want to see him have good money chase bad.

It takes a good amount or soldering skill to remove replace a chip. I messed up rebuilding a Phipps tv board, got everything replaced in the kit. The last was a mosfit forgot to clip the legs tore up the board unsoldering the back. After that I can appreciate the talent someone like you has.

Notice they do not show how they soldered it in. Heat gun?

You have any insight as to why that chip goes bad in a no sound situation? Heat?
 
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