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Both left and right sides do not go to the intake. they go to the exhaust manifold. The purpose of these is to inject air into the exhaust during a cold start for about 90 seconds, that's it (apart from a very brief injection during the drive cycle for testing purposes). What you see is crud from exhaust plugging the stem of the valves.

I wonder if you are injecting the solvent properly.

1) remove the thick T-hose that connects the air pump to each of the two shut off valves.
2) apply vacuum (maybe some sucking on the small hose will do the trick :) to open the valve inside the valve body.
3) insert the spray nozzle while still vacuum applied, and spray as much as you can
4) wait for the solvent to work few hours, and retry if required.

If you do not apply vacuum to the valve while spraying / filling, it will not open and the solvent will not go anywhere. The valve opens with vacuum.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
2) apply vacuum (maybe some sucking on the small hose will do the trick to open the valve inside the valve body.
OK...

3) insert the spray nozzle while still vacuum applied, and spray as much as you can
INSERT NOZZLE INTO THE VALVE PORT THAT THE RUBBER HOSE ATTACHES TO, RIGHT?
COULDN'T THAT SPRAY GUNK OR SOLVENT IN MY MOUTH OR FACE?
 

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You need to check if the valve holds the vacuum (if you have a vacuum pump, it makes life easier). If the valve holds the vacuum, no solvent will come out from the vacuum port. Make a long vacuum hose from the clear tubing you bought (I hope).

Ideally you remove the valve body and clean it, but you said you cannot do it.

How do you know the stem is full of crud, if you cannot see what is inside? You decided this because solvent cannot flow through?
 

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Discussion Starter #64
"How do you know the stem is full of crud, if you cannot see what is inside? You decided this because solvent cannot flow through?"
I DON'T THINK I SAID OR IMPLIED THAT (?) BUT BASED ON WHAT I JUST DID WITH THE SPRAY SOLVENT, IT APPEARS THAT THE STEM IS CLEAR. LET'S ASSUME IT IS CLEAR, JUST STUCK. SO...

Did as told to left valve: used extra black hose (not clear line which is too thin to fit around the metal port stem) for vacuum - which held with mouth to hose suction.

As I sucked on the hose I sprayed cleaner in the hole where the T tube goes.
Spray went in without coming out until I pushed the nozzle in further. Then the spray backed up and started leaking uncontrollably from the top of the can on my gloved hands and all over the place (aargh faulty can).

Removed nozzle, waited for can pressure to go down while leaking spray stank up the joint.
After it calmed down about 1/3 of solvent was left in can. Reinserted nozzle and continued to spray in valve until it started to come out of the valve hole. I think I got close to half a can of solvent in the valve/stem/port/whatever. A little solvent is left in can, maybe try more tomorrow. Letting it sit overnight.
Waiting for more instruction (think my next car will be a TESLA!)
Are you implying that a gunked up port from left valve to manifold is not a serious condition? You didn't say.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
It does need to pass, next June. I'm kidding a little, I really like my car when it works :laugh Will keep you posted. As always - thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #68
While waiting for BG induction cleaner I uncoupled the MAF tube and removed the sensor on it then sprayed 3/4 can of CRC valve/intake cleaner into the MAF intake and got more white smoke - lots of it.

PO410, PO400 and PO105 codes are gone (finally) but new codes came up:
PO173 - fuel trim bank 2. I assume it's an O2 sensor that should be replaced (?)
PO170 fuel trim bank 1 (ditto)
PO 110 intake air temp sensor circuit (pending)
From what I read online, voltage tests should be done to pinpoint the origin of PO110. I'm not familiar with how to do that. Thoughts?
 

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If P110 is pending, it is a transient fault. I would say do not worry about it till it becomes a "current" fault. The ECU measures the resistance of the sensor for open / short circuits, and if the same value is detected twice in a drive cycle you will have a CEL for this. If the system detects a fault (resistance more than 300 Kohms or less than 92 ohms), then it uses a default temperature value of 20 degrees C. Just keep checking till it becomes a permanent fault (you clear it and it comes back after one drive cycle).

If you do not have a P0410 anymore, why do you think you need a BG cleaner treatment ? It is a very strong cleaner, and can strip lubrication, if used improperly (too much).

P0170 and P0173 pair typically imply a MAF issue (or air vacuum leak that may have been introduced, after you removed the MAF to "clean" something :). Make sure that the MAF harness connector is clean and properly installed. With O2 sensor related faults, typically you do not have the both sides failing at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
If P110 is pending, it is a transient fault...do not worry about P110 until it becomes a "current" fault. .... Just keep checking till it becomes a permanent fault (you clear it and it comes back after one drive cycle).
I cleared the codes after using CRC cleaner and P110 came up after a couple of drive cycles, so I will clear the codes and see if it comes up again.

If you do not have a P0410 anymore, why do you think you need a BG cleaner treatment ? It is a very strong cleaner, and can strip lubrication, if used improperly (too much).
Because you said BG was the strongest cleaner on the market and I was not aware that using weaker ones would render it unnecessary...and CRC was not an overnight thing as the other page said should be done for BG.
OK I will save it for another time. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Major snafu this week. On Wed I drove the car 3 hours away for 2 days' business. Was supposed to return early Fri AM but late on Thu it would not stay started. Fortunately I was parked in a good place to have it checked out ...was able to connect late Thu afternoon with a local mobile mechanic service, 2 guys who changed their Fri AM schedule to see me then. Spark plugs were burned out, looked like they had 120K on them (note to self) :twak:
They changed them and the wires and TPS but the car still wouldn't start. Mechanics did more tests and narrowed it down to faulty fuel injectors. OK get new ones - check - but the parts are coming from CA and won't arrive until Tuesday :eek Could have managed to do this myself if I was at home but I was staying with friends and needed to get back to work on Saturday - already missed a day of work

The mechanic loaned me one of his MBs, a 1980 300D with 277K miles :eclipsee_steering: Well, this work needed to be done anyway. The silver lining is that one of the mechanics used to work at the local MB dealership and he has worked on MBs for 40 years, so the car is in good hands. A stranger who saw him working on it told me he is the best mechanic for MBs, period.

Hopefully the new parts will make the car run like new and I can get it back next week!
 

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It is good to know that your car is in good hands. Did the car crank but not start, or it cranks and starts and dies immediately (few seconds) ?

I am kind of surprised with the fuel injectors. Usually you get some prior warning (rough running engine, sputtering) which also applies to the spark plugs. You drove 3 hours with no problems then suddenly some or all injectors failed ?

Typically you would have fault codes with the TPS and injectors. Have they connected the car to MB SDS scanner ?

Hopefully they will find the problem and provide the fix.. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #75 (Edited)
Cranks and starts and dies immediately
yes

Fuel injectors....prior warning which also applies to the spark plugs...You drove 3 hours with no problems then suddenly some or all injectors failed ?
Was not the first time it happened - it also happened Sunday prior, before I sprayed a lot of CRC cleaner in the air intake hose, when that white smoke came out of the exhaust. On Sunday all 6 fuel injector misfire codes came up on the auto parts store scanner. After I sprayed CRC and got smoke the car worked so off I went until Thursday.
I told the mechanics the car had run after I sprayed CRC, so they sprayed in what was left of the can. The engine ran without stalling while the spray was going in, and when they stopped spraying the engine stalled again.


Typically you would have fault codes with the TPS and injectors. Have they connected the car to MB SDS scanner ?
yes and that's why they installed a new TPS. And the plugs and wires are new (did not need new coils) but car still stalls so they have narrowed it down to injectors. If those don't work then who knows what's wrong with the car?


Hopefully they will find the problem and provide the fix.. Good luck.
thanks
 

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It could just be a bad fuel pump relay / intermittent fuel pump operation (wiring)

I hope they checked the fuel pressure at the fuel pressure check port .
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Well, much damage has been fixed and I have paid for it :crying. Picking up the car on Sunday. Needed new sparks, wires, TPS, MAF, 6 injectors, and BG 44K fuel cleaner was added. Mechanic thinks "it might have got some bad fuel". At least they gave me a working car for a week. I kind of like the diesel idea, except for the smell. Thanks for your concerns and suggestions :laugh
 

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Along with the BG treatment I'd suggest a fuel fill from a top tier gas station - premium only.
Looks like you might have had a perfect storm of aged equipment that took some incident to cascade into non-working mode.
Thanks for sharing the cure.
Skippy
 

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Discussion Starter #79
They filled it with premium petrol. The lead mechanic's been working on MBs for 40 years. Couldn't have asked for better care. Just wish it had happened in town so I could've done it myself...and bugged Mr Boca (and others here) more, and saved a bundle on labor.
The car accepts 91 gas, should I use only 93?
And they recommended 5W-40 synth oil. I assume that is best now?
 

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The oldest owners manual I could find online (2000) indicates 91 octane is sufficient.
Locally I have regular at 87, mid-grade at 89 and premium at 91 (Shell).
It would have been interesting to have 93 available, but....
My '98 E320 ran happily on local premium.
 
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