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W212 E350 vanagon
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69 Posts
Hi Robert,
did you check the temp sensors directly or at the ECU-plug?
If you did the measure directly at the sensors, check again at the ECU-connector.
Harness-problems occure more often than sensor-problems.
It's absolutely typical the engine runs cold and dies after some miles if the wiring towards the engine temp sensor is broken.
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I can't ship the tool at this time because of the special regulations during the 'Covid19'-crisis. Shipment would be about 53.-€ for me <private person>, more than $55. The weight of the tool is less than 50 grams...

Regards
Norbert
 

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Premium Member
'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,557 Posts
Looks like I found a problem, points measured 160, 165, ~180, 150. Measured several times, the 180 surprised me.
Those are not good numbers! They NEED adjusting.
In order to adjust them, you really need Norberts's tool. Do you have way of getting one machined (he will send you drawing at no cost)?
Or if you post area you are in maybe someone has one or could loan you one? BEEP - My computer says that Norbert just posted here :)
 

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1975 450sl
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Hi Norbert,

I checked at the sensor directly, you're right I should check at the ECU also though. I'll try to do that this evening. No worries on the shipping, I should be able to manufacture one but im in the Atlanta, GA area if there is someone nearby with one already.

Graham, I think I read in an old thread (sorry if im confusing you with someone else) that when using Norbert's tool there were the plastic coverings in the way? Did you break those off to get to the flanges or were you able to remove them?
 

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Premium Member
'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
Joined
·
10,557 Posts
I can't ship the tool at this time because of the special regulations during the 'Covid19'-crisis. Shipment would be about 53.-€ for me <private person>, more than $55. The weight of the tool is less than 50 grams...

Regards
Norbert
Hi Norbert,
A lot of guys over here seem to have had a need for your tool lately! Hope Outtrun can get one made or borrow one. Very hard to do without the tool.

I tried to buy some oil cooler lines from Germany, and had same problem with shipping costs. They would only ship by UPS Express and that made them uncompetitive.
 

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Premium Member
'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
Joined
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10,557 Posts
Graham, I think I read in an old thread (sorry if im confusing you with someone else) that when using Norbert's tool there were the plastic coverings in the way? Did you break those off to get to the flanges or were you able to remove them?
Maybe Norbert will answer. I think his newer version works with the plastic cover on. I have two old sets. On one of them the plastic cover had been removed. Have to be careful doing that because I think they also act as a spacer/washer.
 

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W212 E350 vanagon
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69 Posts
Hi Graham,
I already sent the figure and instruction to Robert.
I changed the tool-design about 5 years ago to allow the adjustment with the plastic-hoods installed.
In the meantime I saw some units with the hoods destroyed...

I just lately had a M116 unit in service that made trouble because of rust-marks at the distributor-camshaft. The points showed some fluttering, didn't close reliably. The points were worn - not extremely, but just to the point the rust-marks could make them flutter. The engine ran rich.

Regards
Norbert
 

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1975 450sl
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
I appreciate all the help, just to make sure that I have my head wrapped around the tool correctly, its essentially a metal cylinder that is 22 mm in diameter and has a gap that fits snug to the base plate. Then set the gap between the plastic piece on the points and the tool to .5 mm by bending the flanges?
 

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Registered
W212 E350 vanagon
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69 Posts
I appreciate all the help, just to make sure that I have my head wrapped around the tool correctly, its essentially a metal cylinder that is 22 mm in diameter and has a gap that fits snug to the base plate. Then set the gap between the plastic piece on the points and the tool to .5 mm by bending the flanges?
Yes, that's the way to do it...

Regards
Norbert
 

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1975 450sl
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
Alright, got them all to about 120-125 degrees! Will hopefully get everything put back together and test it out in the next few days. Gonna redo some of the wiring that looked suspect. Thanks again for the advice/input. We were able to fashion a tool similar to Norberts using a 16 mm socket (22mm diameter) and then using a small lathe to get a section of it down to 18.5 mm. Worked like a charm.
IMG_1912.jpeg IMG_1913.jpeg
 

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1973 450SL
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83 Posts
Yes, that's the way to do it...

Regards
Norbert
Norbert, I would appreciate the tool drawings as well. My 1973 450SL is plagued with running rich & rough.

Thank you,
Ed
 

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1975 450sl
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
I'm happy to report that the car is no longer running rich! Was able to adjust the ECU knob and for the first time it changed the way it idled. Drove it around for a few miles and it didnt choke out, lacked a bit of power but I didnt clean the plugs off (they were covered in carbon). Excited to finish the restoration!
 

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Premium Member
'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,557 Posts
That is good news!
Sounds like trigger points were once again cause of rich mixture!
Hope cleaning plugs helps.
Otherwise sounds like you are in a better place to fine tune from.
 
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