Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
ok i have a 1995 s500, engine rebulit runs like a champ....problem is suspension is shot to shit... so i bring it in to shop, and they replace acculators..900 bucks... as soon as i leave the garage, i hit a pot hole and realize problem not fixed.....so i make a uturn and bring it back.....they keep the car and tell me that it needs new sturts...hmmmm well i kno that the struts rarely go bad in this car, and plus they are not leaking...also he tells me that they need to replace the lower sway bar links. all in all.$$2000...i say go ahead....

now he told me shock mounts are fine...and the round rubber things are fine too

so he just calls me and tells me that the valve and pump are shot....or working but not alot of pressure....and wants another 2000 to fix that....

question is
what if its not the shocks and thumping persists...
dosent the sls control the height of rear of car when weight is applyed, not dosent control thuding?

please help....
i need to know what to do if he replaces sturts and thudding still is there, and if replacing the valve and pump will fix thudding?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
456 Posts
I had my rear accumulators replaced two years ago after experiencing terrible bouncing/banging noise from the rear end. It worked out because some idiot rear ended me when they were bad, his insurance ended up paying half of the repair. Dealer quoted $3000 to get this done, so your mechanic is off, but not by much. Once replaced there was a night and day difference, so the money is well spent.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,660 Posts
So wait. What has been done so far? You said the accumulators and struts were replaced, but the ride is still hard in the back? Does your car have ADS?

ScapinBenz is correct. It should be a night-and-day difference when the accumulators are replaced (if they were bad). Pump and valve only control ride height. I can't imagine that they will affect the damping characteristics of the rear suspension. If you manually move the valve's lever, and you can see that the rear of the car rises and falls appropriately, then the pump and valve are fine.

Brett
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Acculators were changed. No difference in ride.
Shocks being put in now.

Mechanic told me pump n valve are bad, but car sits nice n dosent sag..
I guess question is, what happens if I get car back n it's still banging In back?
Should u replace valve n pump even though car sits up fine n those two components don't help the banging in back anyway?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
540 Posts
Makes me glad I have a 400SEL rather than a 500SEL. I heard it can be complex and costly to work on the 500/600SEL suspensions. I am not sure of the ride difference comparison when both are up to par, but I know that my 400SEL rides amazingly... especially on the highway, it literally floats over the bumps. I do have a clunk from the LF when hitting bumps I have to get addressed.

Hope you get it all sorted out soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
846 Posts
First off, I think you need to find a new mechanic, he's charging you through your nose without him diagnosing correctly, he's just going for a hit and miss method. The rear shocks should be fine, the accumulators and mounts are fine. The valve MAY be a problem, but very easy way to check it. When on a lifted platform where the wheels are down, adjust the valve and see if it moves up and down, if it moves up and down, it's working fine. Or, you could sit in the trunk and see if it sags or compensates for your weight, if it does, it's fine. You might have air bubbles in the valve/system so just move the valve up and down a couple of cycles to have the car go up and down to get rid of them. The PUMP is FINEEEEE because it's the same pump for power steering, power steering pump is what pushes the hydraulic fluid to the shocks and accumulators.

The possible issue may be the nutorious subframe mounts. Rich.Organic replaced everything in the suspension and the subframe mounts ended up being the issue.

And like Brett San Diego asked, do you have ADS?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,209 Posts
First off, I think you need to find a new mechanic,
and complete your profile.

These cars are expensive to keep but for what you've spent you can rebuild the front and most of the rear suspension.

Somewhere on this site there is a list of shops and members' experience.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
456 Posts
Thanks for the agreement Brett! Usually the accumulators go bad not necessarily the other components with them. My car didn't have a huge sag in the back, but you could easily tell once driving over uneven or bumpy surfaces as the accumulators were banging, creaking, and just making awful noises. I personally thought there was more damage, but the dealer had the car for other repairs from my accident and looked over everything else just to make sure. Hopefully this helps, to save yourself some money, start with the accumulators and go from there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,210 Posts
Find a new mechanic.

Based on what you describe, they either don't understand how to properly troubleshoot the self leveling suspension and/or they are simply parts changers.

When you spend $2000 for a "repair" and the problem isn't resolved you need to "man up" and explain to them that you expect some sort of remuneration or your next stop is to your state's Dept. of Consumer Affairs.

I'm not trying to criticize, but if you let them do this to you continuously you're just contributing to the problem.

It's time to get them to resolve the problem at no cost to you or you need to accept that you just paid for a bunch of work you never needed and move on to a mechanic you can trust.

Dan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,210 Posts
You can (and should) replace the SLS fluid every few years, along with the filter.

One thing that is extremely important - do NOT use anything in the SLS system but the MB approved fluid!

Grand total for parts will be about $30 if that, and the job takes all of maybe 10-15 minutes, tops.

If you need specifics, let me know. I will be flushing my SLS system in a couple of days as soon as the parts arrive.

Dan
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,660 Posts
Acculators were changed. No difference in ride.
Shocks being put in now.

Mechanic told me pump n valve are bad, but car sits nice n dosent sag..
I guess question is, what happens if I get car back n it's still banging In back?
Should u replace valve n pump even though car sits up fine n those two components don't help the banging in back anyway?
I guess it's not quite clear what you mean by "banging in the back." I'd have to drive your car to make any more comments.

I do not believe the pump and valve will have anything to do with the kinds of rear suspension problems that you seem to be describing, but without riding in or driving your car myself, I can't know exactly what you are talking about.

Brett
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Hello, I have the same problem with my 94 s500 coupe sagging.
Were is the valve to manually raise the vehicle? Thanks in advance. Anything obviously I should check?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
and unfortunately I did add another type of fluid. Making noise now. How do I drain the system so I can put new fluid in it? Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,210 Posts
and unfortunately I did add another type of fluid. Making noise now. How do I drain the system so I can put new fluid in it? Thanks
You may have already destroyed the system, as there are a number of parts that are incompatible with non-Mercedes hydraulic fluid. The bladders inside the spheres (accumulators), the seals on the struts and pump, o-rings in the fittings, etc.

The best thing you can do at this point is the following:

1.) Buy two liters of the proper hydraulic fluid from your dealer or the OE fluid made by Febi from a trusted parts supplier.

2.) Get some 1/4" ID clear tubing about two meters (6 feet) long and a clear container, glass or plastic.

3.) Once you have all of this assembled, open the hood of the car and locate the SLS reservoir. Unscrew the small clamp nut that holds the return line in the reservoir cap, and gently pull the line out of the recess it fits in on the cap. Remove the cap, clamping ring and filter screen (attached to the inside of the cap.) Place these items somewhere that is as close to surgically clean as possible!

4.) Push one end of the tubing over the return line so it fits tightly. Place the other end of the tubing in the clear container on the ground in front of the car. Have one of the bottles of hydraulic fluid open and ready to go. NOTE: Keep hydraulic fluid away from any and all painted surfaces. If it comes in contact with a painted surfaces, the paint will be damaged!!

5.) Start the car. Closely observe the fluid flowing into the container and the reservoir. You don't want it to run dry. Bounce on the rear bumper several times, or have a helper do it for you. This will force fluid in/out of the struts and spheres.

6.) Run the fluid down to the lowest point in the reservoir, then turn off the engine. Fill the reservoir with the first liter of hydraulic fluid. Open the second liter and have it ready to go.

7.) Start the car and continue to observe the fluid coming out of the return line to see when it becomes clear (fresh fluid.) when it does, shut off the engine and top off the reservoir.

8.) Remove the plastic line, reinstall the return line in the cap, and the cap to the top of the reservoir. Check the fluid level with the dipstick.

Dispose of the old fluid with your waste oil.

Good luck.

Dan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Thank you Dan for the info! When I purchased the car about 3 yrs ago it sat alittle low then. Then one day I decided to check all the fluids in the car and noticed that the sls reservoir was empty. It must have already had a problem with the system. I will follow your directions (very detailed and thank you for that) and give it a shot. Did you say the system should hold around 2 qts? If not, how much? Is there anything else I can do to see if the system works? Thanks, Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,886 Posts
The accumulators are usually the first thing to go somewhwere around a 100k the price is around $150, the struts are usually good till over a 100k usually $600. when the ride gets bouncey its the accumulators, when the struts get wet they are bad, The level control valve rarely goes bad, the bad news is that the power steering and level are driven off the same pump (dual pump). Your mechanic is inexperienced and just throwing parts at it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,210 Posts
Thank you Dan for the info! When I purchased the car about 3 yrs ago it sat alittle low then. Then one day I decided to check all the fluids in the car and noticed that the sls reservoir was empty. It must have already had a problem with the system. I will follow your directions (very detailed and thank you for that) and give it a shot. Did you say the system should hold around 2 qts? If not, how much? Is there anything else I can do to see if the system works? Thanks, Mark
I said two liters, not quarts.

The previous poster gave some good things to look at, but I would take exception to some of their estimates. It is not unusual to see struts last for several 100 thousand miles, if not more. My 140 is a 1995 model and it has 246k with the original struts. I have owned other MBs with the SLS system and never had to replace a strut or a valve.

Accumulators give themselves away when they go bad in manifesting as a harsh ride. Think of them as the "spring" in the system, and when they go away it's nothing but straight hydraulic pressure with no give. This is really hard on the level valve and if ignored can cause it to fail.

Dan
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top