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Discussion Starter #1
Hi! This is my first post so I appologize if I'm a bit green.

Here's the story...

Driving home from work, my check engine light came on. Car seemed to idle a little rough at stops, but other than that it seemed ok. The next morning, I headed off to work and the car started bogging down like I was out of gas. If I pushed the gas pedal down it would jump and start to accelerate again. I turned right around and coasted home. Now not only is my CEL on, it's flashing. My car hasn't been on the road since.

We went and rented an auto code scaner which came back as bad MAF and cylinder misfires. I have changed the MAF, spark plugs, and air pump.

Now the CEL is still on, but solid, and the code scanner is not giving me any more codes. The car will start and run okay for a few minutes, then it starts to idle rough and dies. Another thing, even with the car is in park, when I push the gas pedal there is no power at all.

I just moved to Indianapolis and I can't afford to take it to the dealer here. A few months ago I went in there b/c my power steering was failing. They said I needed a new pump (min $800) so I took it to a mom and pop shop.... No pump needed, just a loose hose. He reconnected it, tightened the clamp, and no problems since.
 

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Where

did you get the maf?why did you put in an air pump?
Go get the #94169 scanner,take the 39 buck price from the internet page
Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
the store will match the price.
Clear the codes,drive the car till the light comes on,read the codes and post them here.
Usually when the cel blinks it means a system failure and with those codes it could be a fried o2 sensor,but more likely one of your cats is shot.
post those codes,take it from there
:bowdown:eek:hlord
over 80000 miles?
Also no need to take it to a dealer,if we can narrow it down any good indie shop can fix it if you can't.
 

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You bet

your booty:thumbsup:
Failed cat plugged up enough to cause a restriction will cause misfire codes off idle acceleration problems(step on it,falls flat on face)
When you start it up runs fine until the cat gets heated up then struggles or dies.If really blocked car wont even run.Get those active codes/how many miles on the car?if it is a cat they are warranted 8years or 80000 miles whichever is sooner and you are not 8 yet:D
any indie shop will be able to run o2 sensor functions to test if they are good and the same tests will show the telltale values that indicate cat efficiency to show whether they failed.
BTW the car has two governors for the engine one limits top end the other rev limits the engine in neutral or park,so testing engine revs by hitting the gas in P or N to above about 3500rpm will cause misfire codes and the engine will flutter.
ohlord:bowdown:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh WOW! I had no idea! Okay, so I do have 2 bad cats. They estimated $985 per piece for direct fit X 2, and then $150 for labor = $2250 after tax!! Surely this can be done cheaper!! :( He told me that they would just get on my nerves by rattling but wouldn't hurt anything. I was trying to save the money to get them fized!
 

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How many miles?

So you knew you had bad cats or just found out?;)
Race Pages - Auto Parts and Accessories Catalog - 2001 Mercedes Benz E320
call to confirm fitment some muffler shops will splice in the oem units that are about 60bucks or the whole shebang is about 400 if you are not in Ca and 500 if you are.which you are not:D
If both failed you need to confirm that it was just cat failure and not an engine condition(bad rings,valves,head gasket etc.)that ruined the cats.Otherwise you could be in for the same problem in a few months.
Smog tests in your state?He says don't worry but you wont pass the test with bad cats.
ohlord:bowdown:
replace both pre cat o2 sensors while down there
Auto Parts at AutohausAZ - OEM Auto Parts - Discount Replacement Parts, Resources and Car Care Tips
about 90 bucks each
 

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Hey ohlord...

what do you mean by splice in the oem units? I am at the beginning of a rattle myself. I saw the parts on the link you posted in several threads for the whole part. Just looking to be educated before I decide what to do.
 

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Just

the cats spliced in if the pipes are good.If the cats are really rattlin it is always a good idea to check that the muffler did not eat them and get ruined also.
diy of the whole unit pipes and all in the diy section.
How many miles on your 01?
ohlord:bowdown:
 

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Just over 100K, with an intermittent rattle. I have read the DIY with gusto. Just wondering what I will be getting into. I actually own a good stethoscope (I work for EMS) and a set of ramps, and I am relatively handy.
 

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This one is for Ohlord. I had both my cats replaced a few years ago under warranty. When the dealer replaced the cats did they also replace the O2 sensors? They said the cats were falling apart thus all the rattling noises it made when the car got warmed up. I never had one issue with performance or my CEL light coming on but then again I took her in as soon as the rattling started. I guess the O2 sensors are part of the cats? They were about $2000 a piece or close to it if out of warranty. I guess I am naive with this one. Jenny is your car under 80k miles? IF so the dealer will replace at no charge. BTW, first smog test and she passed with flying colors so the cats and sensors must all be A ok!:thumbsup:
 

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You can

ask if they replaced the o2's it might be part of their protocol ,if not they are due at 100000miles just like plugs.The o2's are separate of the cats they are little probes that go into the pipes before the cat and after the cat and register values of a percentage of oxygen in the exhaust stream.They go bad,your fuel curve goes open loop and runs rich and your mpg goes down hill.Knowing the dealers and their propensity to screw even the parent company they probably did charge back the o2's and ran the profit.:eek:
:bowdown:
 
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