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Discussion Starter #1
Something crazy just happened to me...After a spark plug replacement and valve cover change. I come out a few hours later to see my battery light and brake light on...no key in the ignition. I ignore it and start the car, the lights go out. I drive about a mile to the store when i get there to my surprise the care wont turn off so i ignore it again and go inside the store, I come out to a burning smell i again ignore it and proceed to make it back home to investigate, the dash begins to smoke heavily i make it home in time to remove all the fuses relays and disconnect the battery before it went up in flames!!! What in the hell happened to my baby? I have no idea what could have gone wrong with her she's been doing so well... any ideas before I pull the gauges/dash?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ok it appears something happened I cant figure... there is a ground strap located under the drivers dash attached to a black box says 25 on it and the strap appears to be frying when i attach the battery cable. how can i tell if the relays are bad there are small sparks coming out of the box where the ground strap is located any ideas???
 

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Remove the relay marked 25 from its socket (if you can, chances are its now melted in place).

The you need to look at what else cooked due to the current overload on those wires.

The relay was either the weak point, or the cause.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
update the black box labled 25 was and is the fusebox terminal A was burned and melted to the ground strap dunno why everything was fine perhaps moisture could be the cause I did detect some moisture on the ground strap itself but nothing that seemed it could cause many problems the burning was happening so im thinking...just change the box and relays... dunno what A controls but its attached to a big block relay in the box at the back.
 

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Fuck, thats messy.










You have alot of work ahead of you. I can provide diagrams, explainations on how the parts work, etc. etc. etc. As far as advice, not really much I can give in your situation.



Only thing I could say at the moment is.... Fuck.


Im going to start a 201 project soon. I can provide you with pictures of how it is all suppose to look, if you need them.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok guys heres an update on action taken to fix the situation.

  1. Replaced the bad fuse box.
  2. Opened, cleaned, and sealed all relays.
  3. Checked FPR (Fuel Pump Relay) It had alot of damage, I re-soldered the bad connections and replaced it.
Now there is no power to the fuel pump. Key on engine off there are fans but no fuel pump.
Can anyone help with this situation... Is there a way i could have cross-wired the fan with the fuel pump power supply? the connections to the fuse box were pretty straight forward however the singular connectors were a little difficult to place Hopefully someone knows something about this.

Any wiring tips for testing the fuel pump jumping the relay dosent seem to help much either...
 

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Now there is no power to the fuel pump. Key on engine off there are fans but no fuel pump.
Have you tried cranking it?

Also, you should be checking power at the fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Have you tried cranking it?

Also, you should be checking power at the fuel pump.
I honestly dont know where the fuel pump is located exactly I see a sending unit int the trunk on the tank but it has a 3 pronged connector and i dont know the polarity of it. Can anyone assist me with the fuel pump location? To my understanding there are two? i dunno i used to hear them kick on but now there is nothing. Jumping the relay connecting points does nothing.
 

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I honestly dont know where the fuel pump is located exactly I see a sending unit int the trunk on the tank but it has a 3 pronged connector and i dont know the polarity of it. Can anyone assist me with the fuel pump location? To my understanding there are two? i dunno i used to hear them kick on but now there is nothing. Jumping the relay connecting points does nothing.
You really need to fill out your profile.




Let me see if I can go get the info you need after I figure out which 201 you have.

BRB.
 

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1. Locate the fuel pump relay under the cowl behind the battery shield, it may say 'kickdown' on it. Remove the relay.
Using a fused (10A) jumper wire, connect socket terminals 7 and 8, or 30 and 87, on relay terminals. Fuel pumps should run. Crank the engine to see if the vehicle will start and run.

2. Continue testing at the socket for fuel pump relay inputs using a Digital Multimeter (DMM). Test for Battery Voltage (B+) at socket #9, terminal 15 of the relay. Test for tachometer signal input at socket #10, terminal TD on the relay. It should be 6-11 V with the engine running, it will be a pulsed voltage signal from the ignition module. Test ground on the relay, switch DMM to ohms and test continuity to battery negative terminal on socket #11, relay terminal 31.

And.


1. Remove air filter. Disconnect fuel injector connections on the top of fuel distributor. !!NOTE!! SEVERE FIRE HAZARD! HAVE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER NEARBY READY FOR USE! Remove fuel pump relay and install jumper wire from socket terminals #7 to #8 to operate the fuel pump. Test the flow visually of the output from the fittings on top of the fuel distributor when pushing down on the airflow sensor plate by hand. There should be equal flow from each of the fittings.


And..


Check overvoltage protection relay fuse, replace as necessary. Test system fuel pressure - should be 77-84 psi. Check spark quality, test ignition coil primary and secondary resistances. Primary should be 0.4-0.6 ohm, secondary 5-7 K-ohms. Check for fouled plugs, test compression.


And...


1. Test fuel pressure at inlet to fuel distributor or start injector, specification 77-80 PSI/5.3-5.5 bar. Inspect fuel and air filters for restriction.

2. Use an auxiliary fuel source such as propane or carburetor cleaner spray to see if adding extra fuel to air intake will allow the engine to rev up. If this works, go to #3. If not, go to #4.

3. Disconnect connector at the Electro-Hydraulic Actuator (EHA) on fuel distributor (2-wire connector) to see if this makes a difference. If not, connect fuel pressure gauge to test port on side of fuel distributor to test lower chamber pressure, it should be approximately 5-7 PSI/0.4 bar below system pressure reading with EHA disconnected.

4. Remove oxygen sensor (O2) and install exhaust backpressure tester or just leave the sensor removed to see if that improves throttle response. Maximum exhaust backpressure under any engine load condition should not exceed 5 PSI/0.4 bar.

5. Test intake manifold vacuum. It should be four to 5 inches minimum at cranking, and 18 inches minimum running at idle. Look for intake air leaks, especially at vacuum line connections and at the hose from the idle air control valve to the intake manifold at the throttle body.


And....

I'm not sure if this recall covers any of what your car is doing but..

NHTSA Camp.#87V104000





Do you need the wiring diagram for the circuit?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Those things were already done I need to find the fuel pump itself because i need to see if there was any damage done to it. Under the rear seat there is a box with a vaccum line that goes to it. on the drivers side there is a cylindrical container white in color but I see no fuel pump. I need its location to check it. Or trace wiring if need be... I dunno if I'll be able to fix this one... :wtf:
 

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You cannot see the fuel pump (M3) because it is hidden under a protective cover. Take a look under the car, on the driver's side (US) alongside the transmission for a removable cover.

The WIS advises to check for fuel pump current draw at the fuel pump relay terminals 7 & 8 (with multimeter on the Amps range) Current should be approx 6A. If current drawn is above 10A, replace the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You cannot see the fuel pump (M3) because it is hidden under a protective cover. Take a look under the car, on the driver's side (US) alongside the transmission for a removable cover.

The WIS advises to check for fuel pump current draw at the fuel pump relay terminals 7 & 8 (with multimeter on the Amps range) Current should be approx 6A. If current drawn is above 10A, replace the pump.
okay yes I am aware of that black plastic cover i thought that was for the fuel filter only i will inspect it in the morning and see whats going on with it, I was noticing a spliced wire in the floorboard the same reaching from 7-8 on the FPR terminal a braided fiber covered wire red white and black I was wondering if this was the power line to the pump because the owner had it spliced but i cant remember see to what, he had so much crap wired up. the splice terminal he had installed apparently shorted during my fusebox fire and burned a hole in the floorboard cover which was plastic which is why i need to see the pump itself to ensure it didnt burn up all the way to the pump itself.
 

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i personally would replace the damaged relays instead of resoldering them.
 
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