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Picked up the '64 220s

2796 Views 23 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  fishigan, 
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7
Here is the good.....




The Bad.....


The ugly.....






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A penny for your thoughts.... it'll need the gas tank cleaned, lots of misc cleaning. The drivers door and rear passenger door do not close right. The close up pick is from the drivers door. I also noticed that the pin in the bottom hinge is sheared. Will need some fixing there. Also will need to change various rubber bushings, window seals and stuff that dry rots when setting for 8 years.
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Thanks for the input. I appreciate the tip on the back window. And as luck would have it I found one that runs good but is in bad shape on the exterior. It's cheap enough that I couldn't get the carbs rebuilt for what this thing is going for. I can use it for repairing the doors, the dash, swapping out the carbs and gas tank. Then of course I have replacement parts for several things. Awesome stuff. Too bad the back seats are in the same condition. The back seats in these cars must have taken some serious abuse.
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Thanks. I should be heading to pick up the parts car early in the morning. It runs so that means for $300 bucks I have a motor, transmission, radiator, etc... for replacements when and if needed. It doesn't have the bumpers though. I'm thinking I can pull off my gas tank and swap them out. I took the cap off yesterday and it smells like varnish not gas. You know? Reminded me of how finger nail polish remover smells.
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I also pulled out the parcel shelf and noticed that the thickness is the same as some oak plywood I have. :) perfect.
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I am definitely going to need a repair manual. It shifts thru all of the gears but the linkage to the instrument panel to let you know what gear you're in is not working.
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Thanks for the info on the linkage...... NOW......I drove 2hrs and 45 minutes to Detroit today to pick up a 1964 220s. I knew it was in very bad shape but it did run. So we throw a battery in and we have lights and it fires right up and purrs like a kitten. At first glance I was thinking that the carbs looked different. But since I am new to this vehicle and since mine were removed already I figured it was probably the same. Didn't think to look on the side of the carb for the name. I get it home start unloading the treasure chest of grills and misc parts from the trunk then pop the hoods. They are different. So isn't the color of the cone shaped lights in the front. Mine are clear these are an orangish color. The engines look identical and it's a 220Sb but I notice on my tag it also says 220Sb. This parts car has Solex carbs. They seem like they will fit on mine but what is the deal? There are several minor differences that lead me to believe that this is either a year or two older or newer. How do I find the year? Will these carbs infant work on mine? Should I sell these carbs and get mine rebuilt ?
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Ok, so after some research it appears that it is a 1963 220S. It also seems that I can use the solex carbs on mine too. Thats good. I would like to know if it is better to get the zenith back on there though or if the solex are about the same?
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you are correct. I pulled the carb and it does not fit. It's slightly different. That does suck.
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My '64 has a flap that opens and a brake booster mounted behind the master cylinder.
I have been able to take a lot of parts off of the '63 such as the complete padded dash, door hinge parts and another glove box door. As for the hinges though, I really need to pull the lower hinge on the rear passenger door and the lower hinge on the drivers door. They take a large Phillips head. How on earth do you get these screws out? I am thinking I'll need a air wrench because by hand and electric drill it is not going to happen.
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wbain said:
You will have to take off the door card (cover) and oil the screw threads from inside. You can also try some freeze spray from Locktite, for instance, and a hand impact wrench.

A 50-50 mix of ATF and Acetone is a good lubricant for loosening stuck threads. Let is soak for a few days and re-apply often.
Click to expand...
I'll certainly give that a try. I did spray stuff with WD 40 but I'm thinking something else may work better. I'll give your suggestion a try.
I did take the card covers off of the parts car. The first one went pretty rough and the card got trashed. But I used that as a sacrifice to figure out how to do it. All the rest came off nice and easy and complete so I have three card covers too. I did get the passenger side front door off. It was pretty easy since where the hinge is attached to the car is held with bolts. I have some parts to sell off of a '63 220S then I'll scrap the body. I may be able to save a fender or two but the roof, hood and trunk are beat up pretty bad.
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wbain said:
You can remove the rear door hinge pin and the door will come off, but the screws will still be attached.
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I have tried tapping out the hinge pins and can not get them to move. On my drivers door the lower hinge pin is sheared so if i can get that out I can put a new pin in and be good to go there. The lower rear passenger door the hinge is actually broken off from where it mounts on the door. So again, if I can get that pin out and the piece off the door and a piece off a spare door I can simply screw that in and put the pin in. Seems simple. I'll spray it down tonight and try to get it off tomorrow.
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I have taken out the back seat and vacuumed as well as cleaned out the trunk and vacuumed it out. As soon as I get the door issue fixed I'll move on to taking out the rest of the dash. Any tips on how to get the padded dash off with out taking out the instrument cluster? On the parts car I didn't want to brake the dash so I had to man handle the cluster and cut the oil pressure line to get it off so that I could get the pad off. I really don't want to mess with my instrument cluster and there has to be a better way to get the padded dash on and off. Any advice?
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Here is the donor during the strip down. May look horrid but holy cow does that engine run smooth!


Here is what was in the trunk (one grill was on the car)


Here it is before unloading. Found this thing in a rough neighborhood in Detroit.
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Ed Mclass said:
You have $1,000 worth of parts there.
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Thats great.... I paid $300 for the car and with the trailer and gas I would say I have $400 invested. As long as I get my money back I'll be happy.
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Progress is being made

Progress report.

It has been moving along slowly, but moving along nonetheless. I have a long way to go. I opted to work on the cheap easy stuff first. Then I'll tackle the gas tank, carb replacement, brakes, some fabrication and exhaust. 2 of my doors did not work properly because of bad hinges. I managed to fix those with parts from the donor car.

Made a new parcel shelf out of some oak plywood I had laying around.


Removed some wood trim


Removed the back seat


Sanded the trim and one of the doors window trim



Had a broken hinge to replace




And I have a coat of stain on the trim. I opted to go with a red oak stain and then will cover it with a clear semi gloss marine grade urethane
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