Picked up the '64 220s
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A penny for your thoughts.... it'll need the gas tank cleaned, lots of misc cleaning. The drivers door and rear passenger door do not close right. The close up pick is from the drivers door. I also noticed that the pin in the bottom hinge is sheared. Will need some fixing there. Also will need to change various rubber bushings, window seals and stuff that dry rots when setting for 8 years.
71 300SEL, 16 BMW Z4, 58 MGA, 80 Triumph TR7, 85 Porsche 911
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Seals are located all over eBay, and of course at the stealerships. That back window shelf looks bad, but that's an easy fix - take the thing out and replace it with particle board (the kind my dad hangs in his garage and attaches his tools to with hooks). Cover it with carpet from Autozone or a local carper place, and you're golden.
The dash is a loss, I'm afraid to say. My 108 was intact but cracked, so I bought a dash cap from eBay and glued it on. No one's the wiser. If you can find a cap for yours, you could fill it with foam rubber and a layer or two of fiberglass resin in the missing areas, and again, no one would be the wiser.
As for the door guards and sheared pins, I'd suggest loosening the bolts and adjusting the fit for each door. The missing pins can be found (or made from longer bolts) and replaced.
I wouldn't say the car's a complete loss, but you'll need to invest some sweat equity to bring her back into civilized society
I'd be more worried about the fuel system and old gas, if the car's been sitting for 8 years.
The dash is a loss, I'm afraid to say. My 108 was intact but cracked, so I bought a dash cap from eBay and glued it on. No one's the wiser. If you can find a cap for yours, you could fill it with foam rubber and a layer or two of fiberglass resin in the missing areas, and again, no one would be the wiser.
As for the door guards and sheared pins, I'd suggest loosening the bolts and adjusting the fit for each door. The missing pins can be found (or made from longer bolts) and replaced.
I wouldn't say the car's a complete loss, but you'll need to invest some sweat equity to bring her back into civilized society
I'd be more worried about the fuel system and old gas, if the car's been sitting for 8 years.
Thanks for the input. I appreciate the tip on the back window. And as luck would have it I found one that runs good but is in bad shape on the exterior. It's cheap enough that I couldn't get the carbs rebuilt for what this thing is going for. I can use it for repairing the doors, the dash, swapping out the carbs and gas tank. Then of course I have replacement parts for several things. Awesome stuff. Too bad the back seats are in the same condition. The back seats in these cars must have taken some serious abuse.
71 300SEL, 16 BMW Z4, 58 MGA, 80 Triumph TR7, 85 Porsche 911
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2,485 Posts
I looked at the back seats again - they don't look so bad. I didn't see rips or tears. Get yourself some Simple Green and a soft scrub brush, and scrub them clean with a mild solution. Unless they were re-covered with leather, the material is the fake stuff. If the color fades, you can buy ready-made cans of dye from World Upholstery (worlduph.com, I think). I've used them for three Benz restorations now, to include dye.
If the seats are saggy, new pads are available from the same folks, and the replacement is deceptively easy. Do some general searching in this forum for the same subject and you'll find some good information on doing such. If you don't want to buy new seat internals, you can use old blankets (for my W114, I went to a second hand shop and bought a bunch of blankets for a few bucks)
As for carbs, I'm way out of my league. The gas tank though, unless rusted through, can easily be saved. Take it to a radiator shop and have it steam cleaned and recoated. It's a common job.
If the seats are saggy, new pads are available from the same folks, and the replacement is deceptively easy. Do some general searching in this forum for the same subject and you'll find some good information on doing such. If you don't want to buy new seat internals, you can use old blankets (for my W114, I went to a second hand shop and bought a bunch of blankets for a few bucks)
As for carbs, I'm way out of my league. The gas tank though, unless rusted through, can easily be saved. Take it to a radiator shop and have it steam cleaned and recoated. It's a common job.
Thanks. I should be heading to pick up the parts car early in the morning. It runs so that means for $300 bucks I have a motor, transmission, radiator, etc... for replacements when and if needed. It doesn't have the bumpers though. I'm thinking I can pull off my gas tank and swap them out. I took the cap off yesterday and it smells like varnish not gas. You know? Reminded me of how finger nail polish remover smells.
There is a hook at the end of a small cable that goes on the gear rod under the dash. Make sure that it is attached. Then there is a knurled nut on the gear indicator where the cable enters that you turn to calibrate the indicator positions.
Thanks for the info on the linkage...... NOW......I drove 2hrs and 45 minutes to Detroit today to pick up a 1964 220s. I knew it was in very bad shape but it did run. So we throw a battery in and we have lights and it fires right up and purrs like a kitten. At first glance I was thinking that the carbs looked different. But since I am new to this vehicle and since mine were removed already I figured it was probably the same. Didn't think to look on the side of the carb for the name. I get it home start unloading the treasure chest of grills and misc parts from the trunk then pop the hoods. They are different. So isn't the color of the cone shaped lights in the front. Mine are clear these are an orangish color. The engines look identical and it's a 220Sb but I notice on my tag it also says 220Sb. This parts car has Solex carbs. They seem like they will fit on mine but what is the deal? There are several minor differences that lead me to believe that this is either a year or two older or newer. How do I find the year? Will these carbs infant work on mine? Should I sell these carbs and get mine rebuilt ?
Ok, so after some research it appears that it is a 1963 220S. It also seems that I can use the solex carbs on mine too. Thats good. I would like to know if it is better to get the zenith back on there though or if the solex are about the same?
Someone retrofitted those Zeniths on your original car or the entire engine has been replaced at some time. That year and model should have Solexes on a 180.941 engine. The Zeniths were first installed in the 230 fintail on June 1966 around the same time they introduced the w108 which always had Zeniths on the S engine.
My understanding from reading all I could about these cars is that the Solexes are simpler to rebuild and easier to adjust. I rebuilt my Solexes and it was pretty straightforward. It is, however, reported that a well-sorted Zenith is a great carb and if you look at the specifications, the Zeniths do yield 15 more horsepower (on the 180.945 engine).
If you decide to go with the Solexes, you will also need to swap the intake manifold and air hood over. There may also be issues with the linkage and manual vs. automatic choke, although you should have everything you need on the parts car.
My understanding from reading all I could about these cars is that the Solexes are simpler to rebuild and easier to adjust. I rebuilt my Solexes and it was pretty straightforward. It is, however, reported that a well-sorted Zenith is a great carb and if you look at the specifications, the Zeniths do yield 15 more horsepower (on the 180.945 engine).
If you decide to go with the Solexes, you will also need to swap the intake manifold and air hood over. There may also be issues with the linkage and manual vs. automatic choke, although you should have everything you need on the parts car.
1965 220S, 1999 Volvo V70 (wagon), 2006 Ford Crown Vic Police Interceptor, 72 350SL 4 Speed
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You can easily tell early chassis VS late, or 1st version vs 2nd version. Open the hood and look at the middle of the firewall above the engine. If there is a flap that you can open, it's a 1st version. Otherwise it's a 2nd version.
2nd version cars have a regular power booster, dual circuit front disc brakes. There are also minor front suspension differences.
1st version have drum brakes and no remote brake booster or front disc with a remote brake booster.
The service manual refers to the versions.
My 1965 220S is a second version.
2nd version cars have a regular power booster, dual circuit front disc brakes. There are also minor front suspension differences.
1st version have drum brakes and no remote brake booster or front disc with a remote brake booster.
The service manual refers to the versions.
My 1965 220S is a second version.
My '64 has a flap that opens and a brake booster mounted behind the master cylinder.
I have been able to take a lot of parts off of the '63 such as the complete padded dash, door hinge parts and another glove box door. As for the hinges though, I really need to pull the lower hinge on the rear passenger door and the lower hinge on the drivers door. They take a large Phillips head. How on earth do you get these screws out? I am thinking I'll need a air wrench because by hand and electric drill it is not going to happen.
I have been able to take a lot of parts off of the '63 such as the complete padded dash, door hinge parts and another glove box door. As for the hinges though, I really need to pull the lower hinge on the rear passenger door and the lower hinge on the drivers door. They take a large Phillips head. How on earth do you get these screws out? I am thinking I'll need a air wrench because by hand and electric drill it is not going to happen.
1965 220S, 1999 Volvo V70 (wagon), 2006 Ford Crown Vic Police Interceptor, 72 350SL 4 Speed
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1,819 Posts
You will have to take off the door card (cover) and oil the screw threads from inside. You can also try some freeze spray from Locktite, for instance, and a hand impact wrench.
A 50-50 mix of ATF and Acetone is a good lubricant for loosening stuck threads. Let is soak for a few days and re-apply often.
A 50-50 mix of ATF and Acetone is a good lubricant for loosening stuck threads. Let is soak for a few days and re-apply often.
I'll certainly give that a try. I did spray stuff with WD 40 but I'm thinking something else may work better. I'll give your suggestion a try.
I did take the card covers off of the parts car. The first one went pretty rough and the card got trashed. But I used that as a sacrifice to figure out how to do it. All the rest came off nice and easy and complete so I have three card covers too. I did get the passenger side front door off. It was pretty easy since where the hinge is attached to the car is held with bolts. I have some parts to sell off of a '63 220S then I'll scrap the body. I may be able to save a fender or two but the roof, hood and trunk are beat up pretty bad.
I have tried tapping out the hinge pins and can not get them to move. On my drivers door the lower hinge pin is sheared so if i can get that out I can put a new pin in and be good to go there. The lower rear passenger door the hinge is actually broken off from where it mounts on the door. So again, if I can get that pin out and the piece off the door and a piece off a spare door I can simply screw that in and put the pin in. Seems simple. I'll spray it down tonight and try to get it off tomorrow.
I have taken out the back seat and vacuumed as well as cleaned out the trunk and vacuumed it out. As soon as I get the door issue fixed I'll move on to taking out the rest of the dash. Any tips on how to get the padded dash off with out taking out the instrument cluster? On the parts car I didn't want to brake the dash so I had to man handle the cluster and cut the oil pressure line to get it off so that I could get the pad off. I really don't want to mess with my instrument cluster and there has to be a better way to get the padded dash on and off. Any advice?
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