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'04 G55 '80 280GE '99 S420 '98 E320 2011 E350 2016 GLA250
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3,093 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Greets.

Are you having the "rattles" under the front end, while driving on "Rough" roads???

Chances are, it's you swaybar links/bushings.

The record-breaking rains here have wreaked havoc on our already lousy roads. It has been too much for my poor 'ol swaybar.

Here is how you can remedy the situation with an easy and inexpensive fix.
 

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'01-E320 & 02-ST2
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31,633 Posts
Hey, G, thanks for another great DIY. It looks like your first pic has a typo, hard to tell with the yellow font against the reflection but it looks as though it says remove "tie rod" and it's actually the link attachment bolt...isn't that the tie rod above it in the shot?

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
 

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'04 G55 '80 280GE '99 S420 '98 E320 2011 E350 2016 GLA250
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3,093 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Greg,
Yes, bad choice of words. It should say "Remove Swaybar Link Bolt" with T50 Torx bit.

Sorry. It was kinda late...
 

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Mercedes W210 E320 wagon
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406 Posts
G-AMG, Thanks for such of helpful post!

I just done this job and would like to share some experience with it. Unfortunately I don't have a big lift as G-AMG has and did that job on my parking lot. For that case you have to add floor jack as additional, required tool.
When you remove torx bolts from the links (picture 1), then you have to support sway bar by floor jack at middle point before then you start unscrew bracket's screws. Don't forget to put some piece for wood between jack cap and sway bar (you don't want to leave any scratches there);).

Jack support takes out any pressure from brackets and bolts will go a way much easier. For my case it was critical. I have torx bracket screws there and didn't want to cut their heads (Don't ask me how I know that :().
One more thing - ensure that you put right head shield on bracket. They are Right and Left side.
 

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1959 220S cabriolet, 1983 240D original owner, 1999 E300 turbo diesel, 1988 560SL, 2003 SLK320
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3,513 Posts
As Bansai said, make sure you check the kind of bolt heads you have on the brackets. Mine were also the torx type and without the proper socket the chances that you'll round them off and end up with more problems is pretty good. Make sure you've got the proper socket before starting. BTW, the new bolts are hex head, so Mercedes must have figured out that some folks had some problems with those torx types. Also, I found it very easy to pull off the old links while the sway bar was still attached to the car. Just give a good pull and off they come. To reinstall I stood the sway bar up on several thicknesses of cardboard, set the new sway bar in place on the bottom end, lifted the sway bar with the new link in place and gave it a good rap or two on the cardboard and it popped right into place.

Len
 

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1994 E320 Wagon,1999 E320 Wagon,2000 E 320 Wagon, MGB Track/Rally, ,1988 300E ,more....
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6,019 Posts
G-AMG

Do you realize how timely your diy is?See below post
"Help with identifying a sound."
Had him checking the drop link and bushings and there you are with the diy.
Saved my fingers a whole lot of typing.Besides I have never figured out how to put text on a picture,so all anyone ever sees is my finger pointing to the part:D
NOW IF HE COULD BORROW YOUR LIFT HE'D BE IN FAT CITY:thumbsup:
:bowdown:
 

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2001 E320, 2006 CLK350, 2008 E63
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40 Posts
I replaced my mashmellow front sway bar bushings and end links this weekend. Not too hard of a job. I spent more time on the phone arguring with Eibach than it took to do the job.

Here is the scoop: I replaced my stock swaybars with Eibach sway bars back in 2003. The car ran great until recently. Clunking on both ends of the car. I called Eibach to inquiry about their bushings. Simple question, are the bushings rubber or otherwise. After a lengthy conversation they finally stated that they were rubber. Ok, what size? More lengthy dialogue and finally they give me the sizes. 29mm for the front and 20mm for the rear. I took these sizes and went to Energy Suspension for their polyurethane bushings. The front is part# 9.5170G and the rear is 9.5156G. I also got end links from AutoHauz.

The job for the front required a T50 torx bit for the end links and a E10 six point socket for the sway bar brackets. Unbolted the end links then the brackets and removed sway bar. Had to do the removing and installing parts in the house (too cold for that). To remove the old end links I took a razor and cut the outer rubber lip off the end link bushing and then just slid the end link off the bar. Then I just cut remaining bushing off the bar. Slid off the old sway bar bushings (marshmellows) and slid the new bushings with grease fitting brackets on the bar. I used the supplied lube on the bar and inner bushing. To install the new end links I soaped them with Dawn dish detergent and using one of the old end links with the rubber bushing removed. I placed the old one on the floor and placed a new on on top of it. I then placed the sway bar on top of the new link and just pushed it into to place.

Now don't do what I did and install the wrong end link to the incorrect end. You will not realize this until you go to install the bar and the end links are facing the wrong way. That was good for a laugh!!! To remove the new snug fitting end link I just placed the end link on the floor and placed two jack handles on the end link and stood on them with one foot on each side of the link. I then pulled and worked the sway bar and it popped free. Don't forget the Dawn before you try this. Once the end links were correctly installed I reinstalled the sway bar bolting the sway bar brackets 1st but not tightening all the way to insure play when lining up the end links. Tightened the end link bolts, then tightened down the sway bar brackets. Now the front is complete and the rear is next. Can't do them until I receive the rear stabilizer links in 2 days.
 

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'04 G55 '80 280GE '99 S420 '98 E320 2011 E350 2016 GLA250
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3,093 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
ZX,

Sorry to hear of your "misadventure" of mixing up the links. Ha! I was afraid of doing the same exact thing!, which is why I did one at a time, and posted my "warning" (4th pic).

The Meguires Rubber and Vinyl cleaner worked Ok at getting the links back on.
 

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Premium Member
2001 E320, 2006 CLK350, 2008 E63
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40 Posts
This is what happens when it is 20 something degrees out and you try to rush. Good thing I could bring the sway bar in the house. Good lesson learned for me and everyone else that will successfully complete this R&R.
 

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W210
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13,885 Posts
Do you have to get an alignment after this procedure?

ALSO, VERY IMPORTANT: Is there any member here you is an avid DIYer who would like to do this for my car? Someone that lives close to I-95 anywhere between NYC and Raleigh, NC? I can pay or buy them a case of beer:)
 

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W210
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13,885 Posts
Hi G-AMG,
Would it be possible for you to post a list of all of the parts along with their numbers to do both sides? Also the tools needed. I can't really tell from the pics as my eye site is getting temporarly worse due to my diabetes being uncontrolled whic is cause my optic nerve to swell. It will take a few weeks to get my eye sight back after my sugar levels come back to normal. I would really appreciate this.
Thanks
 

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'04 G55 '80 280GE '99 S420 '98 E320 2011 E350 2016 GLA250
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3,093 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Cancer Researcher,

Sorry to hear of your optic nerve problem. Diabetes is a TOUGH road.

Anyhow, here are the items you requested. As a "Hint", you can double click on the images I post, and see "the real thing" which is MUCH more clear.

Again, we are ASS-U-Me-ing your model has the same part numbers...Here we go:

Bushings: (TWO NEEDED) A 210 323 14 85

Link: RIGHT- A210 320 37 89 LEFT- A210 320 36 89

Bushing Bolts: (FOUR) 13mm hex heads. N 910 106 008 019

Link Bolts: (TWO) T50 Torx heads. A 210 323 05 71

I hope this helps.
 

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W210
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13,885 Posts
Cancer Researcher,

Sorry to hear of your optic nerve problem. Diabetes is a TOUGH road.

Anyhow, here are the items you requested. As a "Hint", you can double click on the images I post, and see "the real thing" which is MUCH more clear.

Again, we are ASS-U-Me-ing your model has the same part numbers...Here we go:

Bushings: (TWO NEEDED) A 210 323 14 85

Link: RIGHT- A210 320 37 89 LEFT- A210 320 36 89

Bushing Bolts: (FOUR) 13mm hex heads. N 910 106 008 019

Link Bolts: (TWO) T50 Torx heads. A 210 323 05 71

I hope this helps.
Thanks sir,
I really appreciate you going out of your way for me. God Bless.
 

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W210
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13,885 Posts
How much labor should I pay an ASE certified master technician to do both sides. I have found a couple of them who will come to my house and do it. They have all necessary tools to do the job. I e-mailed them the link to this thread. They are charging $100-$120.
Thanks
 

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E 200 kompressor
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316 Posts
Im gonna do the front and rear anti roll bar bushings and links this weekend and the front shocks as well , thanks for the DIY GAMG will be a help to me . Ill let you's know how to goes for me .
 

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2001 E320 Midnight Blue
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71 Posts
Bushing bolts - stripped?

Anyone else has problems taking out the bolts that hold the bar on? I stripped 3 out of 4. And now I cant get "3" out of 4 off?? I have the replacement bolts, however the current bolts sheered like butter when attempting to remove. Any advice on removal? Thanks!!!!
 

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Have 2000 CLK320 soft top,W210s replaced with rare'11 Turbo 9-5NG (only 500 imported) , '07 9-7x.
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156 Posts
Should the bar be removed with the wheels on a ramp or should the car be jacked up on stands with the suspension hanging?
 
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