part 2
Photo DIY- Spark Plug Change
This is a 4 years *OR* 50,000 Mile Interval.
Unlike many other models, there is NO notation as to whether or not the procedure should be done with the Engine warmed-up, or not.
Since I JUST performed the Fuel Injection Cleaning service, my engine was already warm. Remember to do the Cleaning service PRIOR-TO the Plug Removal, so the Yuck does not get deposited onto the nice New plugs.
Use great care at Plug Re-Install. I use the Old-school "Rotate COUNTERCLOCKWISE Until you feel a slight 'Click', then Carefully Turn CLOCKWISE with Fingertip Torque ONLY!!, until Threads Engage."
Unlike many other models, there is NO notation as to whether or not the procedure should be done with the Engine warmed-up, or not.
Since I JUST performed the Fuel Injection Cleaning service, my engine was already warm. Remember to do the Cleaning service PRIOR-TO the Plug Removal, so the Yuck does not get deposited onto the nice New plugs.
Use great care at Plug Re-Install. I use the Old-school "Rotate COUNTERCLOCKWISE Until you feel a slight 'Click', then Carefully Turn CLOCKWISE with Fingertip Torque ONLY!!, until Threads Engage."
Attachments
-
72.4 KB Views: 1,797 -
53.6 KB Views: 1,585 -
51.2 KB Views: 879 -
58.3 KB Views: 1,887 -
55.3 KB Views: 972 -
63.2 KB Views: 940 -
35.7 KB Views: 1,029 -
58.2 KB Views: 868 -
54.6 KB Views: 844 -
62.2 KB Views: 987
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Great DIY G-AMG!
I am about to do this on my 2010 E350 and your DIY will be helpful.
I have a question, is the U-Joint Plug tool necessary to do this or can I just use a regular spark plug socket?
Also, is the Bosch spark plug the best one to use?
Thanks!
I am about to do this on my 2010 E350 and your DIY will be helpful.
I have a question, is the U-Joint Plug tool necessary to do this or can I just use a regular spark plug socket?
Also, is the Bosch spark plug the best one to use?
Thanks!
no a regular socket will/can work. I use a craftsmans spark plug socket with a 3/8 ext. it have never failed me. I personally like NGK plugs, but I put in what ever my parts dept gives me. some are Bosch and some are NGK.
I never unplug the coils. just remove and lay to the side (above exhaust manifold).
I prefer to do this on a cool eng so not to stretch or damage the threads in the aluminum head. WIS does not specify hot or cold. I have looked.
MB also says not to use the stabilant 22a on its pins. it has been known to create issues. it is noted multiple times in WIS repair instructions. It may be ok to use, but I don't.
but other than that a plug change can be done in 20 minutes.
I never unplug the coils. just remove and lay to the side (above exhaust manifold).
I prefer to do this on a cool eng so not to stretch or damage the threads in the aluminum head. WIS does not specify hot or cold. I have looked.
MB also says not to use the stabilant 22a on its pins. it has been known to create issues. it is noted multiple times in WIS repair instructions. It may be ok to use, but I don't.
but other than that a plug change can be done in 20 minutes.
no a regular socket will/can work. I use a craftsmans spark plug socket with a 3/8 ext. it have never failed me. I personally like NGK plugs, but I put in what ever my parts dept gives me. some are Bosch and some are NGK.
I never unplug the coils. just remove and lay to the side (above exhaust manifold).
I prefer to do this on a cool eng so not to stretch or damage the threads in the aluminum head. WIS does not specify hot or cold. I have looked.
MB also says not to use the stabilant 22a on its pins. it has been known to create issues. it is noted multiple times in WIS repair instructions. It may be ok to use, but I don't.
but other than that a plug change can be done in 20 minutes.
Thanks for the Insight.
Since I like Routinely performing a Compression Test at each Plug Change? This is why I follow the WIS instructions of having engine Warmed-Up.
Intersting about the Stabilant! I learned this trick, (from all people!) the Regional SLR Techincal Speicalist!! Haa Haa, looks like *HE* needs to back to school!!
I have never seen any such comment in WIS. Could I be so bold as to ask "where" I can find these warnings??
Cheers,
"G"
Oh, also "+1" on NGK.
My G55 came from the AMG plant with NGK's. When I did the first plug change? I went "MB-Boxed" plugs, which ended up being Bosch. My Second plug Change? I went with Non-MB boxed NGK plugs.
Is it my "Imagination" that the engine runs smoother, and with a tad-bit more Zip? Perhaps!, but I much prefer the NGK. I honestly believe there is a Noticeable difference.
I will do the switch on the W212, next time.
My G55 came from the AMG plant with NGK's. When I did the first plug change? I went "MB-Boxed" plugs, which ended up being Bosch. My Second plug Change? I went with Non-MB boxed NGK plugs.
Is it my "Imagination" that the engine runs smoother, and with a tad-bit more Zip? Perhaps!, but I much prefer the NGK. I honestly believe there is a Noticeable difference.
I will do the switch on the W212, next time.
most of the do not use I have seen is for the ECU connections, TB, and MAF. I have not really read the WIS for spark plugs. I just looked it up a few times to get the torque spec for the plugs. I will say I have used it on some connections and have not had any issue. I was stating that's it isn't necessary to use it.
but that is an awesome detailed writeup. the first couple I did, I disconnected the coils. Know I don't, just lay them aside. less I have to unplug/plug up the faster I can do the job. I use my 1/4 electric air ratchet to remove coil bolts and spark plugs. than tighten them with it slowly and then torque them with my 3/8 torque wrench.
MB has switched b/t Bosch and NGK a few times. I don't like switching them if the car came with NGK and put Bosch in or vice versa. But I got tired of arguing with my parts dept so I put in what ever EPC says.
but that is an awesome detailed writeup. the first couple I did, I disconnected the coils. Know I don't, just lay them aside. less I have to unplug/plug up the faster I can do the job. I use my 1/4 electric air ratchet to remove coil bolts and spark plugs. than tighten them with it slowly and then torque them with my 3/8 torque wrench.
MB has switched b/t Bosch and NGK a few times. I don't like switching them if the car came with NGK and put Bosch in or vice versa. But I got tired of arguing with my parts dept so I put in what ever EPC says.
most of the do not use I have seen is for the ECU connections, TB, and MAF. I have not really read the WIS for spark plugs. I just looked it up a few times to get the torque spec for the plugs. I will say I have used it on some connections and have not had any issue. I was stating that's it isn't necessary to use it.
Haaa, That is strange, because according to the SLR Tech, it is Exactly THOSE type of Contacts (MAS, ECU, and other "Electronically-Sensitive" Connections) is where the Stabilant is best Suited.
Again, if I could trouble you for those WIS References, I would REALLY appreciate it, as I would really hate it if I am Echoing BOGUS repair recommendations. ~:-0
Cool! Thanks "King" for the Grease tip...MB Spark Plug Connector Grease
By the way, how do you find these "Star Bulletins"??
Actually, the request for the WIS documentation was directed at the use (or Prohibition as the case seems to be) of Stabilant 22A. I did not want to be Regurgitating some fact if it is CONTRAINDICATED.
I know thought recently released bulletin complemented thread. Bulletins are readily available through STAR subscription.Actually, the request for the WIS documentation was directed at the use (or Prohibition as the case seems to be) of Stabilant 22A.
Perfect!
I have ordered a couple of tubes of the Lube. Don't know why they don't offer a Larger size than "10cc's". At the recommended 1cc/plug, that is one tube per plug change.
Unless I buy a V12! Haa haa ;^)
Honestly, the Bosch Dielectric grease was kinda' "sticky", anyway. In the past, I had used the Wally-World "CRC" Dielectric grease, but that seemed TOO thin. Most of it would Liquefy in-between changes.
I'll give a Product review when I get the specified Gooooop.
I have ordered a couple of tubes of the Lube. Don't know why they don't offer a Larger size than "10cc's". At the recommended 1cc/plug, that is one tube per plug change.
Unless I buy a V12! Haa haa ;^)
Honestly, the Bosch Dielectric grease was kinda' "sticky", anyway. In the past, I had used the Wally-World "CRC" Dielectric grease, but that seemed TOO thin. Most of it would Liquefy in-between changes.
I'll give a Product review when I get the specified Gooooop.
So only six spark plugs and not 12 like on the W210 Nice! less money!! looks pretty straight forward. I will tackle this next as I have gone over mileage for change I am now at 66k 
OOOooopppps! Forgot to Photograph the Gapping Process.
0.8 mm Gap
0.8 mm Gap
Great information here. Thanks and subscribed!
Great write-up and pictures. Makes the job look very easy.
I am going to replace the plugs this weekend in my wife's 09 E350. I bought the NGK 4288.
A question: Is a 5/8" spark plug socket the right size? How deep does the socket need to be?
What extensions did you use?
I am going to replace the plugs this weekend in my wife's 09 E350. I bought the NGK 4288.
A question: Is a 5/8" spark plug socket the right size? How deep does the socket need to be?
What extensions did you use?
5/8" should work fine.
In terms of Extensions? A 6" extension should work for all 6 plugs.
In terms of Extensions? A 6" extension should work for all 6 plugs.
I just replaced my spark plugs this morning. I have a 2008 E350 V-6 86k miles (I used the NGK brand plugs - PLKR7A) All gaps were good from the factory but i checked just in case.
- The torx screws were not hard to loosen and they did not have any loctite on them so I didn't use any when I replaced.
- The plugs were not that difficult to remove
- There was no debris or oil in the spark plug chambers
- I did not disconnect the coils like in the DIY from the OP. They came out easy and were easy to re-install.
- I torqued the spark plugs to the recommended setting. (I did not use any antisieze)
- I used a dab of dielectric grease on the boots
It only took 45 minutes to change the plugs and I took my time. I saved hundreds of dollars by doing this myself. (actually the hardest thing to do is re-install the air hoses on both sides of the air cleaner housing)
The car seems to have more pep than before and idles much smoother.
- The torx screws were not hard to loosen and they did not have any loctite on them so I didn't use any when I replaced.
- The plugs were not that difficult to remove
- There was no debris or oil in the spark plug chambers
- I did not disconnect the coils like in the DIY from the OP. They came out easy and were easy to re-install.
- I torqued the spark plugs to the recommended setting. (I did not use any antisieze)
- I used a dab of dielectric grease on the boots
It only took 45 minutes to change the plugs and I took my time. I saved hundreds of dollars by doing this myself. (actually the hardest thing to do is re-install the air hoses on both sides of the air cleaner housing)
The car seems to have more pep than before and idles much smoother.
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Mercedes-Benz Forum
BenzWorld.org forum is one of the largest Mercedes-Benz owner websites offering the most comprehensive collection of Mercedes-Benz information anywhere in the world. The site includes MB Forums, News, Galleries, Publications, Classifieds, Events and much more!
Full Forum Listing
Recommended Communities
