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'04 G55 '80 280GE '99 S420 '98 E320 2011 E350 2016 GLA250
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, this started as a brake pad change post.

My 140.043 has no rear brake pad wear sensors, and since I have almost 120,000 miles/10 years on the ORIGINAL PADS, I thought, "Ah, what the heck, let me just change them".

As you can see from the post, the rear pads and rotors are NEARLY NEW!!

Anyhow, the procedure is the same. Just substitute "New Pads" for "Replace Pads".

For reference, my Front Pads lasted almost 100,000 miles before hitting the wear sensor.

Since most cars are a 80/20 split between front/rear braking, this might explain the lack of rear wear.
 

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'04 G55 '80 280GE '99 S420 '98 E320 2011 E350 2016 GLA250
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
whoops! Forgot to put the wheel back on!!

whoops
 

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1997 S500V
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272 Posts
Excellent pix! I am impressed with the mileage you are getting out of your brakes. The last time I changed all 4 brake corners, I was suprised they were all evenly worn. I bought ATE rotors and pads and the experienced MBZ mechanic mentioned that MBZ designed all 4 brake corners to wear out evenly at the same time despite the weight transfer during braking.

My initial thought was your brake proportioning was biased towards your front brakes...thus allowing your back brakes to barely wear.
 

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Thats odd... I have the wheels off mine, had the rims re-painted, so i figured i might as well change the pads, i noticed the rear pads are worn just about to the sensors, front pads still have plenty meat on them.
 

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1987 560SL - 1994 S420 - 2005 S55 AMG
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341 Posts
I have heard the hardware should be replaced each time the brake pads are replaced; however I also re-use the pins and springs. I always clean the pins throughly to ensure they allow for ease of movement. Does anyone buy all new hardware when they replace their brake pads and is there a safety issue in re-use of the old brake hardware (ie pins, springs). Also if the sensors are not worn down can they be re-used safely? (I do it)
Great Pictures G-AMG!
 

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1996 S320 (Kuro) 1998 S600 (Weiss)
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2,885 Posts
Thanks a million - I've .pdf'd this and added it to the knowledge thread.
 

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1993 300SEL (Sold) 2007 X5
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Thats odd... I have the wheels off mine, had the rims re-painted, so i figured i might as well change the pads, i noticed the rear pads are worn just about to the sensors, front pads still have plenty meat on them.
I'd say the previous owner replaced the fronts and then not the rears as they still had life left in them.
 

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'04 G55 '80 280GE '99 S420 '98 E320 2011 E350 2016 GLA250
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have heard the hardware should be replaced each time the brake pads are replaced; however I also re-use the pins and springs. I always clean the pins throughly to ensure they allow for ease of movement. Does anyone buy all new hardware when they replace their brake pads and is there a safety issue in re-use of the old brake hardware (ie pins, springs). Also if the sensors are not worn down can they be re-used safely? (I do it)
Great Pictures G-AMG!
Chief,

The WIS is usually quite clear as when to install NEW parts (ie. when replacing the calipers, use NEW Encapsulated Bolts).

I have never seen any sort of mandate for disc brake work.

Now, on the G-Wagen W460 with the rear DRUM brakes, it DOES specify replacing the internal springs and hardware after every SECOND brake service, but NOTHING about the front disc brake hardware.
 

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2008 C200K (W204) & 1998 SL500 (R129) Imperial Red
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I Know this is an old thread, but thanks G-AMG, great write up! I am going to do the brakes on my S320 tomorrow, and those disc thickness specs were very useful since I want to get my discs skimmed..

Much respect comrade!
 

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1999 S420; 2007 S600
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416 Posts
Great walkthrough, thank you very much! Easy job once you know what you're looking at. These are a bit different than other brakes I've worked on. As a note, I think these are original pads. They were nice and quiet and had perfect stopping power when going forward but made a HORRIBLE loud squeal in reverse, that sounded like metal on metal, even though I could see that there's plenty of pad left. After a week at the beach, hearing this horrendous squeal inside a parking garage every day when we'd come & go, I decided to replace them. New pads are whisper quiet, so that's good.

One thing to note is that at 65000 miles, the old pads still had 90+% of the pad left. I guess it was just from the 12-year-old material; and they had no shims, but I'm not sure if that would make any difference.
 

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93 190E 2.3, 94 E320 (sold), 01 E320, 99 S320, 18 Durango
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While installing the new wheels I noticed groves in the rotor as seen in the pictures below on the rear passenger side only and there is no lip at the edge.
The brake pads on both sides seem very low and I am planning to replace the pads, but do I need to do the rotors as well because of those groves?
The driver side rear rotor looks fine with smooth surface.

Car: 1999 S320 SWB with 113k miles.
 

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2003 Mercedes E500
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When installing the new pads you should get the rotors resurfaced. Its bad to put new pads on rotors that have grooves in them because your new pads will have uneven wear.

If you can find a shop that does brake resurfacing instead of having to buy a set of new rotors. At our shop we charge $12 per rotor to resurface them even and smooth.
 

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93 190E 2.3, 94 E320 (sold), 01 E320, 99 S320, 18 Durango
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I just finished installing the rear pads and the old pads where stuck in place and very hard to pull out due to a lot of dust build up. I think the old pads are the original pads or maybe was replaced only once before (113k miles now).
 

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93 190E 2.3, 94 E320 (sold), 01 E320, 99 S320, 18 Durango
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Forgot to mention that I ntoiced when I was replacing the rear pads that the pads worn unevenly on each side.
On the passenger side, the inner pad worn more than the outer pad.
On the driver side, the outer pad worn more than the inner pad.
Also the brake pad wear sensor was only on the passenger side.
What could be the reason for that? or is it normal?
 

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86 190E 2.3L 16V, 2 95 320TE's, 02 S500
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Single rear wear sensor is normal. Approximately how much difference in material thickness between outer/inner pads? Does the difference in thickness seem consistent between the two sides?
 

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93 190E 2.3, 94 E320 (sold), 01 E320, 99 S320, 18 Durango
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The difference between the two sides is almost the same consistent but the passenger/right side is slightly thicker/thinner than the driver side. It is just not the same inner/outer on each side.
In the pictures below (same photo but with/out flash) the top pads are the passenger side and the lower are the driver's side.
 

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Mercedes Benz
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Brake bleeding a 1995 W140 S420

Today I have driven my 1995 W140 S420 20 miles. There are no dash lights and the brakes are working perfectly. This post is to answer those that have the exact same year car with the ABS/ASR pump number 0024319612. This part was succeeded by 0024319812 and is said to be the same. I can not verify that.
WHAT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE IS that this model is the ONLY one that I know of that DOES NOT have an SP port. This is important because every factory manual and direction for the ASR models refers to this port in it’s procedure.

I WILL be covering here how to bleed the brake system. NOTE: I have not used an Star Diagnostic Tool or similar device to “actuate y61 switch other valve”.


THIS FIRST ACCOUNT DID NOT DO THE JOB! It left me with a stuck caliper at the front passenger and rear driver. In this I followed the procedure found in the EPC WIS, on AlldataDIY and on this thread and site. Of course the only difference being there is no SP port to relieve pressure from. This was done after replacing the rear brake flexible lines and the front calipers, pads and hardware.

(When up capping a brake line I used rubber plugs from my Miti-vac kit to stop brake fluid from leaking and air getting in the system.) After topping off with Pentosin Super Dot 4 I opened the male nipple on the master cylinder. I started the car. The I brought the mitt-vac pressure bleeder that I attached to the fluid reservoir with their provided screw on cap style attachment. I squeezed the handle until the psi was 20 and made sure all air bubbles were gone before I stopped this process. I then moved to the passenger rear.
At the this tire I had my assistant keep pressure with the mitt-vac to 2 PSI. I bled that wheel until there we no air bubbles. I did this procedure then for the driver rear, front passenger and then front driver. At the end of this process the aforementioned problems arose- the front passenger and rear driver caliper was stuck closed.
With the car running I put it in gear. I wanted to see if the driver rear would turn. I gave it gas. The ABS pump began making noise that it makes similar to when a person slams on the brakes. The dash board lit up with the ABS ASR and Brake light indicators illuminating.

That evening I posted in this forum. I searched through engines and posted in Benzworld. After searching for two days I was still no closer to answers. Then I came back to the 500e board and saw some additional posts. GSXR figured out that the unit on this singular model year is unique to it. Another member posted his experience and it was similar to mine when I had done this job once in the past.

The following is what I did. THIS WORKED.

The beginning of my process was identical to the above until I got to the passenger rear.
THERE WAS A BIG CHANGE HERE! I attached the pressure bleeder to the fluid reservoir. BUT THIS TIME I attempted to also use a second vacuum mitt-vac at the wheel. I WAS NOT GETTING MUCH FLUID AT ALL!
(THIS NEXT PART I DO NOT RECOMMEND UNLESS you have a new or close to new master cylinder). I removed the pressure bleeder from the fluid reservoir, filled the fluid and put the oem cap on it. I then asked my assistant to pump the brakes as should would if she was coming to a stop. She did this for 9 times. I still was trying to pull with the vac at the wheel but it was creating air bubbles. Finally I had her pump 9 times and then I closed the valve. HERE IS THE PART THAT WORKS:
AFTER PUMPING FOR 9 TIMES I HAD HER PRESS THE BRAKE ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR AND once she was at the floor I opened the bleeder valve with the 9mm brake line wrench and closed it as soon as the fluid was without bubbles. It was a very quick open - close action. I repeated this two more times. I then did this at each wheel. The passenger front required the most attempts. THE ENGINE WAS RUNNING DURING THIS ENTIRE PROCESS and I MADE SURE I DID NOT GO LOW ON FLUID in the reservoir.

MY BRAKES feel better than they ever have. I have had no lamps come on. I hope this helps!
 
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