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'04 G55 '80 280GE '99 S420 '98 E320 2011 E350 2016 GLA250
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Another Unfortunate example of MB Dropping the Ball on a Needed Maintenance item... Servicing the CV Joints within the HomoKinetic Shaft on the W463 Trucks. "Sealed for Life"??? PLEASE!!

After reading the "Horror" stories of these things going bad, and seeing the Awful, HARD grease, even at under 100K miles... I opted to save myself a $1,000 part, and be proactive with a Service..

I think Professor Harold is suggesting a 7 years/80,000 mile Clean/Re-grease schedule. Since my truck was at that exact interval I was surprised to see the grease in a "still soft", but in an overly "Paste-Y" state for my liking... so "I" am going to go with a 4 year/50,000 mile interval.

The Temple Monkey was a bit nervous, especially after seeing all of the Nightmare frozen bolts.... So I started the procedure with a "Respectful Bow East Towards Graz" to appease the bolt-gods. I was very pleasantly surprised to encounter ZERO problems.... all the nuts/bolts had a satisfying "Crack" as the Microencapsulation gave way.

Yes, yes, I know the Nuts are 16mm, but for REMOVAL, all I wanted to do is hold the nut long enough to get the bolt started.... Since you Must renew the Nuts, I didn't care if I slightly rounded one of the corners. As you can see, the Diesel Valve Adjusting Wrench had the PERFECT shape to access the Front Joint Nuts. For the REAR, the Multi-Purpose M110 engine Valve Adjust Spanner was a nice Length to reach the aft nuts.

A few tips from some "mistakes" I made.
1- DON'T use a regular Parts Bath with the CV Joints. That MolyKote grease is Very Thick, and is VERY HydroPhobic. Instead, I found using lint-free towels to MANUALLY remove as much grease as possible, Prior to using Brake Cleaner (no, Not for "Green" reasons. Although I'm Kaliphornian, I'm NOT a Tree-Hugger)

2- After FLOGGING on the Shaft Re-Install, I opted to try the "Blonde Brains" over Brawn.... If you use a big Drift to approximate the FRONT Joint FIRST, then use the Drift to Torque the Joint around so as to Align the holes enough to get a few of the Bolts in place. Once the front is situated, the REAR is a breeze to get in.



VERY IMPORTANT NOTE!!!-- Since the Shaft is Pre-Balanced, it is ***IMPERATIVE*** the Boot/Covers/CV Joint/Trany-Transfercase Flanges MUST be Marked in their "IN-SITU" positions, so they go back EXACTLY as they came out, otherwise imbalance, which may lead to Transmission or Transfer Case DAMAGE!!
 

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Gongrats! Another splendid DIY thread! I wonder, that they haven't asked you to write "G-Wagon easy as Lego for Dummies" book already...!
 

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'04 G500, '00 E55 AMG, '90 300TE 4Matic, '82 240D
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7 years later this is still an excellent resource, thank you for putting this together.

..and nice Hazet collection, damn
 

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'04 G55 '80 280GE '99 S420 '98 E320 2011 E350 2016 GLA250
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Discussion Starter #6
7 years later this is still an excellent resource, thank you for putting this together.

..and nice Hazet collection, damn

Ugggg, 'thanks' for reminding me... I'm due for a '60k' service on the propshaft... :^(
 
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