part II
partII
partII
Photo DIY- Engine Oil Change via the "Sucky" Method
Greets.
I know I am going to lambasted for my "extremist", anal-compulsive approach to vehicle maintenance... To be PERFECTLY CLEAR, I am NOT in any way promoting "Break-In" Oil changes. I guess "old-school" ways are hard to break (ie. the days of 600 mile oil change).
Well, after the 1.500 km "break-in" period (which I also do to excess, keeping under 2.000 rpm)
I went ahead with an oil change. Please don't cast stones, or send the "Green" Geo-Nazi's to my door for wasting said oil... to me it is cheap insurance.. just like when I do 5.000 mile oil changes, even with synthetic.
This basic post is designed to show those who may be too timid to do their own oil changes, "It's no big deal, and easy to do!" I feel there is a certain "bond" between owner and car when maintenance is done.
I will probably also open up the can of worms by recommending the "Sucky" vacuum method of oil removal. I've tried BOTH drain and suck methods, and EACH time I got nearly 200 cc of EXTRA OIL via the Sucky method vs. drain... Plus?? the sucky method, you can do in your White Tuxedo, and not get a drop on you.... try that with the "drain" method! Also, no jacking safety issues to contend with.
A few notes:
This is for a M272 engine on E350.
The Oil Listed, Mobil 1 Formula M 5W-40... this is **NOT THE SAME AS** Mobil 1 "ESP" Formula M 5w-40. Originally, the "ESP" version was BRIEFLY included on sheet 229.5 (Gasoline Engines), but was later pulled by MB. The "ESP" is on sheet 229.51 and is for Diesel Engines...
The Mobil 1 Formula M is ONLY available through the MB Dealerships... Trust me, I even tried BRIBING Mobil Oil, and several Distributors to sell to me directly, to no avail... Don't worry, though, it is actually cheaper than you think.. I got mine for $6.02 per quart from MB, which is quite a bit less than the Brand X auto parts store which is probably closer to $8 bucks.
You will see the two variations of oil filters. In the past, with the same part number
000 180 26 09 MB box would sometimes be a Mahle, and sometimes Mann. Nowadays, it seems to be solely Mann (with the FLAT edge in the photo below). Some Guru MB mechanics believe the Mahle-type provides a slightly better "seal" due to its extra "Lip" on the ends. I'm sure I'll catch flak for that, but my "proof-in-the-pudding" is my AMG engine on the G came with the Mahle-type installed... "If it's good enough for AMG, it's good enough for me too"..
You can get the Mahle type from AutohausAZ. The Mahle number is OX 345 D.
One note on the Mann-Type... there is a "Line" on the filter element that you need to TWIST the filter onto the holder COMPLETELY, so that the "line" on the filter lines up with the holder edge.
Once the oil is in, and you take it for a drive to check for leaks, and to warm the new oil, you must check the oil level on a flat floor, and wait FIVE MINUTES after shutting off the engine... Wipe off the dipstick, re-insert and hold inserted for AT LEAST 3 seconds to obtain a correct reading..
Anyhooo, enough babbling...enjoy!
I know I am going to lambasted for my "extremist", anal-compulsive approach to vehicle maintenance... To be PERFECTLY CLEAR, I am NOT in any way promoting "Break-In" Oil changes. I guess "old-school" ways are hard to break (ie. the days of 600 mile oil change).
Well, after the 1.500 km "break-in" period (which I also do to excess, keeping under 2.000 rpm)
I went ahead with an oil change. Please don't cast stones, or send the "Green" Geo-Nazi's to my door for wasting said oil... to me it is cheap insurance.. just like when I do 5.000 mile oil changes, even with synthetic.
This basic post is designed to show those who may be too timid to do their own oil changes, "It's no big deal, and easy to do!" I feel there is a certain "bond" between owner and car when maintenance is done.
I will probably also open up the can of worms by recommending the "Sucky" vacuum method of oil removal. I've tried BOTH drain and suck methods, and EACH time I got nearly 200 cc of EXTRA OIL via the Sucky method vs. drain... Plus?? the sucky method, you can do in your White Tuxedo, and not get a drop on you.... try that with the "drain" method! Also, no jacking safety issues to contend with.
A few notes:
This is for a M272 engine on E350.
The Oil Listed, Mobil 1 Formula M 5W-40... this is **NOT THE SAME AS** Mobil 1 "ESP" Formula M 5w-40. Originally, the "ESP" version was BRIEFLY included on sheet 229.5 (Gasoline Engines), but was later pulled by MB. The "ESP" is on sheet 229.51 and is for Diesel Engines...
The Mobil 1 Formula M is ONLY available through the MB Dealerships... Trust me, I even tried BRIBING Mobil Oil, and several Distributors to sell to me directly, to no avail... Don't worry, though, it is actually cheaper than you think.. I got mine for $6.02 per quart from MB, which is quite a bit less than the Brand X auto parts store which is probably closer to $8 bucks.
You will see the two variations of oil filters. In the past, with the same part number
000 180 26 09 MB box would sometimes be a Mahle, and sometimes Mann. Nowadays, it seems to be solely Mann (with the FLAT edge in the photo below). Some Guru MB mechanics believe the Mahle-type provides a slightly better "seal" due to its extra "Lip" on the ends. I'm sure I'll catch flak for that, but my "proof-in-the-pudding" is my AMG engine on the G came with the Mahle-type installed... "If it's good enough for AMG, it's good enough for me too"..
You can get the Mahle type from AutohausAZ. The Mahle number is OX 345 D.
One note on the Mann-Type... there is a "Line" on the filter element that you need to TWIST the filter onto the holder COMPLETELY, so that the "line" on the filter lines up with the holder edge.
Once the oil is in, and you take it for a drive to check for leaks, and to warm the new oil, you must check the oil level on a flat floor, and wait FIVE MINUTES after shutting off the engine... Wipe off the dipstick, re-insert and hold inserted for AT LEAST 3 seconds to obtain a correct reading..
Anyhooo, enough babbling...enjoy!
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Great job G AMG :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
Recently i've changed oil on my W220. Funny thing was that i decided to make oil "sucky" by my self. I've got pipe to fit in oil dip stick and attached to a stiff plastic 25L can. Made a hole for vacuume cleaner to suck air. Whole project cost me less than 5 quid but it failed :crybaby2: because plastic can walls could not hold sucking pressure. At least i tried
. Whole project cost me less than 5 quid but it failed :crybaby2: because plastic can walls could not hold sucking pressure. At least i tried
Oh well.. it you are only out 5 quid... no big loss.
Perhaps a METAL can?
Improving SHURFlo Performance?
G-AMG - First, thanks for this thread. Well, my e-350 just hit 10K miles and I decided to change my oil yesterday. Everything went great except sucking out the oil.
Engine was warm and I put a piece of tape the length of the dipstick + 1 inch.
It started out fine, but slowed to a crawl. I only ended up extractring 7 qrs after 2 hours.
Any tips that aren't in the instructions? Would it help to shorten the tube a bit? There was always suction, and I played around with pushing/pulling in and out. Thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Jim
G-AMG - First, thanks for this thread. Well, my e-350 just hit 10K miles and I decided to change my oil yesterday. Everything went great except sucking out the oil.
Engine was warm and I put a piece of tape the length of the dipstick + 1 inch.
It started out fine, but slowed to a crawl. I only ended up extractring 7 qrs after 2 hours.
Any tips that aren't in the instructions? Would it help to shorten the tube a bit? There was always suction, and I played around with pushing/pulling in and out. Thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Jim
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