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Discussion Starter #1
At first I thought this to be a bit too "esoteric" of a DIY, but after reading several posts, this seems to be a fairly "common" problem.

Since I had a micro leak, I was forced to replace mine.

Please be environment conscious, and have your system evacuated BEFORE starting this job. PLUS<<< your system will NOT be under HIGH PRESSURE!!






The usual CYA blah, blah stuff. I am not claiming any expertise. I make no bones about it, I am a novice mechanic. My projects are based on my interpretation of the WIS procedures, and/or outside sources. Do work at your own discretion.
 

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Hey, G-AMG.

Esoteric? I think not. But I am beginning to wonder how you have the time to rebuild your W210 one part at a time all for our benefit. :)

I've been wondering what my 5,000th post would be, and this is it. Quite apropos, I think.

Thanks for another bang-up job and another thread for our DIY sticky.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
 

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just wanted to let you know that I replaced my condenser in my 96 C280 today using this DIY.

but there are a few differences in the process.

1- The fan assembly on the C class is actually attached to the condenser with 5 nuts, 2 on left and right side and 1 in the middle.

2- The tubes on the condenser actually have very little space to get through next to the radiator, so you have to pull the radiator out of its bottom rubber grommets and shove it back, then carefully manipulate the tubes and the condenser out of its hole.

other than that, its all the same.

thanks so much for this great DIY.


attached is a picture of my old condenser, the green is the UV dye that shows leakage.
 

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[just wanted to let you know that I replaced my condenser in my 96 C280 today using this DIY.
but there are a few differences in the process.
1- The fan assembly on the C class is actually attached to the condenser with 5 nuts, 2 on left and right side and 1 in the middle.
2- The tubes on the condenser actually have very little space to get through next to the radiator, so you have to pull the radiator out of its bottom rubber grommets and shove it back, then carefully manipulate the tubes and the condenser out of its hole.
other than that, its all the same.
thanks so much for this great DIY]


Hi Kompressor1. This weekend I am going to replace the condenser in my '95 C280. Did you use the same type and same amount of compressor oil that G-AMG used in his car? Thank you so much for your help!
 

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The author mentions that the correct oil amount is 20 grams that he got from the WIS program. I also have WIS and mine shows 20 cm3 for the condenser and I have been looking for a conversion to ounces/ Does cm3 = grams? Thanks
 

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No cm3 = old term cc = cubic centimeters - also termed militers ; like a syringe measurement.

There are 29.57 cm3/cc to 1 fl oz.

20 cm3 = .68 fluid oz
 

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Check a hobby store, where they sell kits, plastic sysringe 10cc to 12cc often handled for glue applications:

TowerHobbies.com | Hobbico Hobby Syringe 12cc Curved Tip

You could also use a "flavor injector" from cook ware:

TowerHobbies.com | Hobbico Hobby Syringe 12cc Curved Tip

Or go to Grainger, your choice to buy a needle, or just suck it up with the body:

Syringe, Luer Lock, Poly, 10CC, Pk 10 - Dispensing Needles and Syringes - Dispensing Guns - Adhesives, Sealants, & Tape : Grainger Industrial Supply
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The author mentions that the correct oil amount is 20 grams that he got from the WIS program. I also have WIS and mine shows 20 cm3 for the condenser and I have been looking for a conversion to ounces/ Does cm3 = grams? Thanks

The specific gravity of the fluid (grams per cc) is "close enough" to 1.0... so for practical purposes, 20cc=20grams. This is not THAT critical of a operation to require any sort of precise measurment.

Now, to clarify-- The 20gm/cc value I quoted from WIS was for CONDENSOR REPLACEMENT ONLY. If you are changing the Receiver/Drier; or you had some Refrigerant Circut/Hose failure, the QUANITY OF OIL NEEDED WILL BE DIFFERENT! Consult WIS for whatever your R/R requirement is.
 

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Thanks for the input to G-AMG and audinicki8181. I have a 98 C 280 Sport and the information you posted was helpful.

QUESTION: Since I replaced the receiver-drier, in addition to the condenser, should I add more than 20 grams of oil??

I appreciate the question about the type of oil required by the AC system. Are there differences in types of PAG oil that must be considered depending on the AC system??
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the input to G-AMG and audinicki8181. I have a 98 C 280 Sport and the information you posted was helpful.

QUESTION: Since I replaced the receiver-drier, in addition to the condenser, should I add more than 20 grams of oil??

I appreciate the question about the type of oil required by the AC system. Are there differences in types of PAG oil that must be considered depending on the AC system??
Per your request, here is the WIS info on quantities (attached)
 

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Hello,

This is a great writeup. I am wondering if the instructions are applicable for 1998 E300TD and if not what else I need to consider. I am about to embark on this project and will have to travel 80 miles to my friend's garage, since I currently live in an apartment.

Thank you in advance.
 

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I bought the Behr condensor from AutohausAZ and was pretty disappointed. It was basically the Nissen product with a Behr "service" sticker on it (whatever that is). I paid 40% more and am pretty sure it's a Nissen Made in Korea.....so be careful when ordering from them. I could have saved $40.
 
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