part 2

part 2

 

part 3

part 3

 

part 3

part 4

Nevermind G-AMG, im an idiot! once i crawled back under the car it became blatantly obvious.

 

part 4

part 4

 

part 4

G-AMG, i am doing this same repair on my 97 s500, i am at the point where i am about to re-install the valve body to the bottom of the transmission, in your one picture you state "be sure to line up the shift mechanism to the body" i apologize for my stupidity, but what do you mean by that? as this is my first go with this repair like this on my car, and honestly i dont want to do it again. ('specially today as its going to be 105 degres here today. LOL.) thanx for the info and the tutorial, very easy to follow and job has gone smoothly thus far.

 

part 5

part 5

 

Thanks, G-AMG, for another excellent DIY.

Although there are separate DIYs for either the spring or the conductor plate, yours is the most detailed for both.

I have added this thread to both the Transmission Sticky and also the 722.6 Transmission FAQ.

Thanks again.

 

How many different ways can someone say, "WOW"?

Very impressive, G. Not just that you do it, of course, but you do it
with such precision and, of course, stop to take pictures and then
annotate them for others. :thumbsup:

I see stuff like this and the below comes to mind.

While I'm sure you're much better looking and certainly a nicer guy,
please substitute your likeness and moniker for that of Mr. Cooper
as you enjoy this small token of my esteem...

 

Haaaa Haaaa!! That was quite funny!!... But also quite unnecessary accolades... The Mechanical Temple Monkey is just happy to be able to "give back" to the community that has saved me a Butt-Load of $$ over the years...

G

 

Fancy funnel! Never seen that before.

 

You'll see lots of neat and fancy things in G-AMG's DIY posts. I'm trying to figure out if that is a Hazet mirror.

 

Woaw... Nice clean explanation G-AMG, and so detailled.
:bowdown:
Is there no way of just changing a single component/ sensor in the conductor plate? You need to change it all for one sensor?
Cheers.
Olivier

 

Problems with speed sensor

Hi,
I had MB E320 CDI 1999 W210 in limp mode.
Diagnosed myself with Autologic scanner and found SPEED SENSOR FAULTY.
Cannot locate part number and where to buy it? Price idea?
Help pls
Gemy

 

G man. you may not ever know how many of us you have helped. Awsome pictoral. My 98 E300TD, trans started acting up a few weeks ago, now it is in limp mode, in 2nd gear. I have P, R, & 2nd. Thats it. Check engine light is on and wont go out. I will leave out the detail's on that. So, my car is up on ramps as I type this, and I'm driving my beloved, reliable, 97 Chevy Tahoe to and fro. I am getting ready to do exactly what you have done here to my car. Here are the questions.
1) My trans is the 722.608. Do I use the same part's, is your trans also a 722.608?
2) My wife is helping me, and happend to loose one of the springs on the drivers side of the valve body plate. Do you know where I could order this from?
3) Where can I get the Sonnax spring from? I tried my local parts places around here, and they dont have a clue.
4) Where can I find the rest of my parts needed? Also, should I replace all of the valves in the conductor plate? Do they come with the conductor plate?
5) Should I replace the plug as a default?
6) Where can I find that MB Diagnostic software and hardware?

Feel free to PM me about this. not sure if the policies here prevent us from refering parts dealers and .com's. Thank you so much for your help and anyone else that wouldnt mind chimeing in.

 

Hey!
1- Yes, the parts should be the same, but PLEASE confirm via EPC.net (FREE to you as a USA resident)
2- Hmmm, you were taking the cover plate off of the *DRIVER'S* side of the valve body??WHy? On a RHD car, the spring is on the "Passenger's" side.
3- Go to a TRANSMISSION repair place... they will know what you are talking about...
4- Try AutohausAZ for most of the parts... I haven't looked on their site for Trans parts recently.
5- YES!! It's only a few bucks
6- Look on Fleabay

That's neat that your nice wife is out with you "bonding" with your vehicle..

I hope this helps..

G

 

Pressure Regulator Spring (Yes, those Idiots at MB change out the WHOLE Valve body, rather than the stupid $8 spring-- thus, NO MB number) Sonnax 68942-01 You should be able to get it at your local Transmission Supply house.

Hi, thanks a lot to all of you guys for lots of great info in this forum
I am having transmission shift 3 to 4th gear problem, sometimes it slips.
So I am hoping its a simple fix of replasing the pressure regulator spring
And i was thinking its just about to die completely ... Pheew

Anyways, in another thread someone posted Mercedes part for this spring, http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w21...-e-class/1423078-722-6-pressure-regulator-spring-replacement-2.html#post3590759

For this one, dealer is the cheapest. Part number: 140 993 58 01

My dealer shows its not in stock, so I will be calling my local Sonnax dealer, but thought i'd ask about it. If this spring is prone to breaking then maybe there is no point to try to get the same from MB, but rather get the one from Sonnax?
Thanks again

 

Gman.

I ended up buying the conducter plate from the stealer. They had it in stock, was a few dollars more than online, but they had it in stock and I couldnt wait. Also, found the springs from a shop in Houston Texas, they sent them to me next day air. Also, I replaced the potentially leaky plug connector.

The speed sensor on the old conductor plate has a hell of a crak in it. Hopefully, this is the cause of the issues.

 

Hi everyone

In this picture clearly i could see conductor plate and i got question.
Would that be easiest way replacing valve pressure spring and 13 pin connector by removing whole conductor plate. I've got 2 springs (one spare just in case) and plastic connector.

Regards Saulius

 

By the way, I kept your post up on my computer, and followed along. I dont have, and couldnt find locally a torq wrench that has torq settings that low, i.e 4nm. So, I when I tightened the torx bolts down, I just got it snug, and then gave it a 3/4 of a turn. I had checked all of the springs in the valve body and one came up missing, that is why I orderd the springs. I didnt have any broken springs, but I did replace the second from the back on the passenger side any way.

 

This single pdf file might be a bit easier

Thanks for all the detailed hard work.

I took your jpg files and converted to a psf file that could be a bit easier to handle and post.

You need Adobe Reader 8.0 or newer to view properly.

Thanks for work !

 

Thanks for all the detailed hard work.

I took your jpg files and converted to a psf file that could be a bit easier to handle and post.

You need Adobe Reader 8.0 or newer to view properly.

Thanks for work !

Hey!

Thanks a bunch for taking the time out to do the PDF conversion!!

 

Glad to hear you got things squared away...

You may also want to "Reset" your Tranny computer..

 

Yes, the car still has the CEL on and will still not get out of 1st or 2nd gear. Think 2nd. The way I understand it, I have to get the codes cleared before the transmission will go back to normal shifting. So, Im taking the car to the dealer first thing in the a.m to get my codes cleared. They charge $56 to clear the codes. Just trying to get my car back on the road ASAP.

 

Have you tried the "FREE" method?? (ie. Resetting the Tranny Computer??)

Turn key to position "2"
Hold gas pedal to floor for 5 seconds
Release and turn key to position "0" but DON"T TAKE THE KEY OUT!!
Wait a minimum of 2 minutes during this time DON"T TOUCH ANYTHING, and Don't open the doors,etc...
Now you're reset...

 

Great news!!! I took my car in this morning to have the CEL codes cleared. Codes were infact indicating the speed sensor faulty. They re-set the codes and the transmission shifts perfect now, with the new conductor plate and connection plug replaced. Great post/ DIY pictoral.

 

Well, I did replace the spring, although I was sad to see the old one intact, replaced filter, gasket, and the leaking front electric plug socket...
Removed the valve body - electric plate looked OK. Dissasembled valve plates and cleaned everyting.. Checked solenoids.. Also changed the shift gear bushing - it was completely missing so it was rattling at higher RPM during highway driving..

My tranny still slips (sometimes) when its hot and during 3-to-4 shift... No Error codes present as checked by my Carsoft 7.4.. It used to show temperature sensor fault once in a while. Control module is nice and dry..

Transmission sliping problem is going on since I got the car ~ 2 years ago, and its getting somewhat worse with time.

I'm about out of ideas guys?? :surrender: Is it time to drop the tranny and use the gasket kit to replase all the seals in the planetary clutch modules?
Any advise on how to drop the tranny? My engine is 2.2 CDI

Just before I do that I might take it to MB shop for diagnostics, although I doubt they will be able to see more, as the problem is intermittant, and there are no error codes present, also from my past experience with them - they are either poorly trained or God knows what else, but they are pretty bad at diagnosing problems
Please help, with any ideas. :bowdown:

Thanks

 

Im thinking that since you had gone that far in there and had the condutor plate out, it would have been a good idea to replace that. I didnt see the crack in my conductor plate at first. Not until I had thrown it away, in the garbage can. Then I thought to get it back out and go over it once more, I found the crack over the speed sensor. These things are black and made of plastic with elctrical contacts. Makes it hard to see the problem sometimes. From what I hear, the actual transmission is pretty durable. The weak link is this conductor plate. Not saying that is where the problem is, but, for how much its going to cost to get it in the shop, you could have paid for a conductor plate. You can buy a new one from parts.com for $127. Just my 2 cents. Thanks for listening, I hope you can get er fixed w/o a whole lot of $$

 

You can buy a new one from parts.com for $127. $

I guess I don't know how to navigate their site, or possibly it's been a while since you bought your conductor plate from them because all I could find was filter, gasket, and pan for a 722.6. Am I missing something?
Thanks!
PTB

 

poster is a gangsta for true !!!!!!!! - i love these trany threads
:bowdown:

 

Awesome work! Thanks for sharing.

Excelent job.

Nice man.. this is the type of information thats always appreciated.
Appreciated​

 

My 722.6 is OK now, Thank you

Hi. I just want to thank you, guys.
I had the same problem with my 722.6 (E320, W210), jerky shifts from 1-2 and 2-3.
After reading this an others posts regarding this subject, I buy the conductor plate + spring+filter, gaskets, etc. and last weekend I replaced the conductor plate + filter + regulator spring + ATF Fluid (Valvoline ATF Maxlife, thanks loubapache).

My car shifts like silk now.

So, thank you again to all of you who share your knowledge and document all the procedures.
(and excuse my poor english ;-)

Take care
FIGU

 

Hello from Slovenia! :wave:

I am new owner of S210, E320, 2002, with 95000km!

I have noticed that when car is cold, 1->2 and 2->3 shifts are harder (not really hard) than 3->4 and 4->5 shifts. When car (and oil) is warm shifts are smooth. Is this only temperature related, or are these conductor plate failure symptoms? I have no experiences how should it feel, so that is why, I am asking You guys...:dunno:

ATF was never replaced (sealed for life...yeah right), so I am planing to replace it within couple of weeks.

Thank You!

 

The speed sensors are not available as separate items. They are molded onto the conductor plate (Electrics kit).

 

I do not think that the sensor fault disappears due to changing the ATF. In my case, the sensor was physically damaged. Moreover, I think you can try to change the ATF and if the problem persists, I see no problem in reusing the same ATF, but would have to be filtered very well.
Just my thoughts.
Figu

 

"Personally", there is NO WAY I would re-use ATF, especially in these boxes.. WIS cautions "even a minute particle can cause problems" (paraphrased).

I can't imagine, under even the most "sterile" of conditions, that you would not be inducing some sort of contamination, while trying to Recycle the ATF.

Just crack open your wallet and buy NEW "Spec" fluid.

Just my thoughts.

 

Guys,
I have silly question about ATF color. I see on picture that G-AMG drained red fluid from his transmission.
I replaced ATF in my transmission a couple of weeks ago. I flush it through backward line and spend 12 liters MBz ATF#001989680301 for that.

When I flushed last liter then it was red and bright, but.. after an hour and short trip on ~10miles I found yellow ATF threads on dipstick. I guess ATF changed color because it was warmed up. Isn't it?