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1999 S600 Sedan, 1999 S600 w/ 4-pl seating, 1995 S600 Coupe, 2-1992 600SEL's, 2002 ML55, 1998 SL600
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Agree completely with DRCANE. Only use OEM parts. If labor is half the cost of replacing a part, the delta between genuine and ersatz is minimal, so the savings isn't great. If you do your own wrenching, how valuable is your time?

My coupe came with Brand X brake pads and rotors. I nearly crashed the car getting off the highway because of the high-speed shimmy. Had genuine parts installed, end of problem.
 

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1997 S500V, 1999 S500 grand edition, 2006 s65 amg
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7,370 Posts
Agree completely with DRCANE. Only use OEM parts. If labor is half the cost of replacing a part, the delta between genuine and ersatz is minimal, so the savings isn't great. If you do your own wrenching, how valuable is your time?

My coupe came with Brand X brake pads and rotors. I nearly crashed the car getting off the highway because of the high-speed shimmy. Had genuine parts installed, end of problem.
well then again everything original is hard to find. for example window regulators, i went through 2 new original regulators in less then 6 months. the aftermarket one from autozone lasts longer plus you get a lifetime warranty. Also if you have the m119 engine and doing the camshaft oilers the aftermarket is worth more then the original, original is plastic and aftermarket is aluminum, in this case aftermarket is better

as for brakes i only use ATE(german made). i have new oem rotors and pads on the rear and on the front i have ATE rotors and oem pads. but i have the ate set for the rear in my trunk. one question stryker which manufacturer made the factory parking brake shoes?
 

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92 500 SEL, 84 GMC Caballero, 82 Suzuki GS1100GLZ
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161 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I just posted this for the people that fix their own cars. A lot of the original parts are OEMed by other manufacturers, ie Bosch, ngk,etc. I figured some might like to buy the same part for half the price. Or at least have the option.
I know some still take the car to the dealership to get it washed.
 

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1995 Mercedes-Benz S420 (W140), 1997 BMW 740iL (E38), 2011 C300 Luxury (W204)
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1,315 Posts
There are other websites as well, that supply OEM/OES parts that are great for the DIY owners. They also carry aftermarket stuff as well, for those who want aftermarket, so be sure you know what you're looking for. Maybe there should be a stickied thread on reliable suppliers.

I agree with Nhz, the case for window regulators I am in the same boat, also my aftermarket blower regulator is 2 years strong now with lifetime warranty too. For me, some parts are okay as aftermarket that is not vital to safety, performance. If it works, then it works. The plastic oil tubes, totally true. Older W140s had metal tubes too, it just shows you that they cheapened some stuff to save $ perhaps. They're ~$24 a tube for the metal ones, you do the math, 24x16 tubes... very pricy for some oil tubes. (MB tubes ~$15 per tube)

But as Stryker said, some parts you should not go aftermarket if you want an S Class performance/safety. Brakes, suspensions components, vital engine parts, windows, and maintenance items I consider OEM/OES quality very important. Do not necessarily have to get a MB branded one, but find out the MB original manufacturer and buy the same part to save money. For example, I just replaced my OEM wiper blades this weekend, they had a MB logo on the plastic tab where the blade mounts onto the wiper arm. The same Bosch replacements were cheaper, exact same part aside from the plastic part containing the MB logo.

As for Rock Auto, I used them once but had to cancel my order due to their pricing. I needed a rear wheel speed sensor, it was about 240$ from Rock Auto if I remembered correctly. I couldn't find any other supplier of the same part so I ordered. I got curious as to what the OEM price was and checked the part numbers on genuinemercedesparts.com it turns out the MB part was cheaper! It was like $170 or something and so I ordered that.

Also, just to comment on OEM windshields vs aftermarket. I had replaced my mom's windshield (honda accord) last month with an aftermarket glass from a local glass shop. The difference is not noticeable from outside, but when you look from inside, the edge of the glass distorts the image, if you know what I mean. You get this sort of fish eye distortion around the outer edge of the glass. The original didn't have this affect. The rest of the glass is still fine, but things like this bother me and in cases like this, I would go OEM. I'm due for new windshield on my w140 too, too many tiny rock chips that the glass looks dirty.
 

· Premium Member
M120, M119, W126*2 + Silver Avantgarde wagon
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4,889 Posts
well then again everything original is hard to find. for example window regulators, i went through 2 new original regulators in less then 6 months. the aftermarket one from autozone lasts longer plus you get a lifetime warranty. Also if you have the m119 engine and doing the camshaft oilers the aftermarket is worth more then the original, original is plastic and aftermarket is aluminum, in this case aftermarket is better
Good post:-

Two points:-

(i) Do autozone do rear window regulators on the coupe? I'll look myself too...

(ii) Oilers - I've heard the aluminum ones are risky. This brings Stryker's suggestion firmly into favor. My only one addendum to it would be this - in buying my coupe, I got to speak to several techs who used to work for the local MB dealers. They were all very helpful - & I learned in some instances (window regs) the MB postion on W140 "what's right & what's not", was in their words filled with MB ass covering lawyers writing the service bulletins...

One tech there quit MB over the early W140's. I will respect his confidence but he is one of the, if not the most respected Benz World tech in that city. He told me in no uncertain terms there is a reason why the regulators keep busting so often on W140's, and that it comes down to one of many design faults in the original W140's. With regs & motors it is the excessive internal narrowness of the gauge they have to guide & push the window through.

He said he was just fed up of serving life long customers, repairing things for them even with MB parts and still see it go wrong again on early W140's. He found it embarassing, so he set up his own shop - and is doing brilliantly. Of course some early W140's did fine, but what an education I had in buying my coupe...

Suffice to say he was relieved I bought a 99 - and in exchange for a dozen beers even spent time checking her out for me, before saying...:thumbsup:
 

· Premium Member
M120, M119, W126*2 + Silver Avantgarde wagon
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4,889 Posts
well then again everything original is hard to find. for example window regulators, i went through 2 new original regulators in less then 6 months. the aftermarket one from autozone lasts longer plus you get a lifetime warranty. Also if you have the m119 engine and doing the camshaft oilers the aftermarket is worth more then the original, original is plastic and aftermarket is aluminum, in this case aftermarket is better
Yup I found them for the rear windows on a coupe:-

Window Lift Motor | 1999 Mercedes Benz CL500 8 Cylinders 5.0L MFI DOHC | AutoZone.com

Limited Lifetime warranty.

Has anybody had any experience installing these in a coupe?

Also, where might I go to do the window and door trim at the same time. (Silence is important to me...!)
 

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92 W140 300SD 97 VW Jetta TDI 05 E320 CDI 90 Passat Wagon TDI
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1,280 Posts
Rockauto has a nice website but their shipping is very odd because of the dispersion of parts locations. Also I've noticed that their slipping on the brand name side of things, lots of uro stuff that's reportedly pretty mediocre.
 

· Registered
1999 S320, 97 740i, 99 A4
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95 Posts
I always shop at autohausaz.com and bmaautoparts.com and one local store Import Auto Parts in seatac bought oem windshield wipers for 80 bucks for both sides and oem brake fluid power steering fluid and other staff it's all oem
 
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