[roncallo]

So I finally got to do my first real job in my new man cave with the lift, electricity and airlines all in place and set up.

I have been running around without a parking brake for the past several years because its not required for inspection in CT and I was too lazy to address it. But in NC they do have yearly inspections and the parking brake is on the list of things that need to be checked. So this weekend I changed my brake shoes.

So here is my how to do it.

1) If you go to the manual you will find two special tools are needed. The first tool is for the hold down springs. For this I used a special tool that I bought 35 years ago for working on Toyota drum break hold down springs. But a 1/4" rod this a slot cut in it with a thin grinding wheel should work fine.

2) The second tool is the return spring removal tool. For this I used a standard Snap on cotter pin removal tool.

3) With the hold down and return springs removed the shoes can be spread apart and removed from the vehicle. You could just put new shoes in adjust and be done. but I had the cables disconnected over the years and needed to fix that as well.

I also had a second problem. The spring kits I got, with I am not sure if it came with my shoe kit had different size springs than the original springs. The hold down springs were completely wrong and the return spring near the star wheel would not rub against the star wheel as the original one did and is supposed to. I decided to reuse all my old springs. See the photo comparison.

Since I had my cables disconnected just ahead of the rear drive shaft flex coupling, I was able to pull the brake shoe cams out unpin them to remove them from the cable, disassemble clean and grease. I don't believe that could be done without disconnecting the cables but it really isn't necessary.

With the cables needing to be connected the exhaust system needs to be removed to gain access to the cable adjustment.

TBC

 

[roncallo]

With the exhaust system removed there is clear access to the parking break cable adjustment as well as the cable connection area. Note that the cable adjustment is strictly for taking slack out of the cables. I prefer to do this with the rear brake rotors removed and tighten until I just see the shoes come off the fixed stops on at least one side. That's all there is to this and this adjustment should never be touched again until a brake cable is replaced.

The actual parking break adjustment is performed with the star wheels through the lug holes in the wheel hubs.

In my case I had an additional problem I had to deal with due to modifications of the right side cable mounting which were required to put the large 129 V12 diff into the 107. I had to move the cable away fro the larger flex disk and that cause the cable to bend unfavorably from the cable termination. You can see this cable misalignment problem in the second photo.

The third photo shows where the cable hooks into the clevis. You can see from the photo that the cable hooks in through the bottom of the clevis because the cable slot is facing downward.

Originally the cable slot was facing up and the cable was loaded through the top of the clevis. With my cable now repositioned to flex downward the cable end was now pushing up against the clevis. If the right side cable was slow in releasing, slack in the cable would allow the cable end, which was non placing pressure on the top of the clevis to ride up and out of engagement. Flipping over the clevis completely addressed this problem. So after addressing that and adjusting the cables I have completely addressed my parking break issues.

In removing the exhaust for the first time in about 5 years I had discovered an issue that I was kind of worried about since I raised my engine 1/4" about 8 years ago.

The exhaust is chaffing on the chassis and wearing out the exhaust wrap. Well it has lasted about 6 years that way so the solution will be to re wrap the exhaust every 5 years.

 

[rowdie]

Looks like tight working space. Thanks for posting.

 

[reno4u2]

Great write-up...EGv107 worthy...

But a 1/4" rod this a slut cut in it with a thin grinding wheel should work fine.

Guessing you meant "slot"? :wink

 

[jsebastian]

Great to see the ultimate man cave in full operation...

John

 

[roncallo]

Great write-up...EGv107 worthy...



Guessing you meant "slot"? :wink

Yes

I had to fix that one quick before nobby dot a hold of it.

 

[roncallo]

Great to see the ultimate man cave in full operation...

John

Thanks

It should be in full operation in about 2 weeks when I get my pallet racks in. At the moment I really cant unpack.

 

[nobby]

Yes

I had to fix that one quick before nobby dot a hold of it.

Hmmm.

You still need help.

 

[roncallo]

Hmmm.

You still need help.

its the meds

 

[MBGraham]

I have been running around without a parking brake for the past several years because its not required for inspection in CT and I was too lazy to address it.

I posted in another thread about finding one of the hold down springs on my W123 being broken when searching cause of scraping noise. The brakes are same as on the R107. 560SL - if you hear a scaping sound, check this ...

I am not sure if I will be able to get one of those springs quickly. So, removing E-brake could be an option.

With parking brakes removed, what is the situation? Pushing on ebrake pedal no doubt won't stop car from running downhill. What about when car is put in Park? Does that actuate e-brake or lock rear wheels in some other way?

 

[roncallo]

I posted in another thread about finding one of the hold down springs on my W123 being broken when searching cause of scraping noise. The brakes are same as on the R107. 560SL - if you hear a scaping sound, check this ...

I am not sure if I will be able to get one of those springs quickly. So, removing E-brake could be an option.

With parking brakes removed, what is the situation? Pushing on ebrake pedal no doubt won't stop car from running downhill. What about when car is put in Park? Does that actuate e-brake or lock rear wheels in some other way?

Putting the car in park will lock the transmission and therefore the rear wheels right up to the point where someone taps you car and breaks the parking pawl.

 

[MBGraham]

Putting the car in park will lock the transmission and therefore the rear wheels right up to the point where someone taps you car and breaks the parking pawl.

Thanks, I grew up with manual gearboxes and never ever investigated just what that P did

 

[nobby]

I posted in another thread about finding one of the hold down springs on my W123 being broken when searching cause of scraping noise. The brakes are same as on the R107. 560SL - if you hear a scaping sound, check this ...

I am not sure if I will be able to get one of those springs quickly. So, removing E-brake could be an option.

With parking brakes removed, what is the situation? Pushing on ebrake pedal no doubt won't stop car from running downhill. What about when car is put in Park? Does that actuate e-brake or lock rear wheels in some other way?

I worked on a "newer" Benz for CCToronto.

I did his brakes for him.
The parking brake on his car came on automatically when the car was shut off.

There was some procedure that I followed to temporarily disable it to actually do the brakes without losing a finger.

 

[MBGraham]

I worked on a "newer" Benz for CCToronto.

I did his brakes for him.
The parking brake on his car came on automatically when the car was shut off.

There was some procedure that I followed to temporarily disable it to actually do the brakes without losing a finger.

Well, my 300D is a "newer" car. But only when compared with my 107

 

[MBGraham]

A friend with tons of old parts found a spring amongst his stuff. Going to pick it up soon.

Next thing is to install - I made the installation tool- Cut an old 1/4" diam driver down and cut a slot in the end. Works fine. I removed the other spring as a trial. The manual says to turn 90deg and then make sure spring is "correctly attached"! Seems like that may require X-Ray vision

Anyone done that that? Clockwise or CCW? Same on both sides? If compressed and turned 90deg, does it automatically clip in place?

By the way, this is on W123, but e-brake is same design as on all 107s, I believe.

ADDED: Looking further at manual, it has this cross section. Looks like spring will be retained it it is turned so the hook faces outwards:

 

[Turbo510]

The manual says to turn 90deg and then make sure spring is "correctly attached"! Seems like that may require X-Ray vision

Anyone done that that? Clockwise or CCW? Same on both sides? If compressed and turned 90deg, does it automatically clip in place?

If you look at the orientation of the slot(s) in the brake backing plate, and imagine aligning the spring loop to fit through, it will be obvious how the spring should look after a 1/4 turn. I'm not aware of any reason to prefer a CW or CCW turn, and don't remember feeling the springs latch onto anything. The only extra thing I did was to first fit the disk, then actuate the parking brake just to position the brake shoes, then remove the disk again. At that point, you can shift the springs on the shoes so they are perpendicular to the backing plate, if you are that fussy.

 

[MBGraham]

If you look at the orientation of the slot(s) in the brake backing plate, and imagine aligning the spring loop to fit through, it will be obvious how the spring should look after a 1/4 turn. I'm not aware of any reason to prefer a CW or CCW turn, and don't remember feeling the springs latch onto anything. The only extra thing I did was to first fit the disk, then actuate the parking brake just to position the brake shoes, then remove the disk again. At that point, you can shift the springs on the shoes so they are perpendicular to the backing plate, if you are that fussy.

I turned the spring CCW (I think) but at least in a direction so that the end of the spring coil was being dragged rather than pushed and possibly snagging on the slot it rests on. Also so the hook ended up facing outwards as in the diagram.

Diagram shows the hook over some sort of ledge or retainer. No way to see in there if it is really like that, but whatever, the springs are in and seem secure

 

[MBGraham]

Not sure if I posted elsewhere, but I found that the passenger side of my W123 (same parking brakes system as 107) had lost one shoe lining. I bought new shoes and have the one side almost installed.

Problem I have, is getting the last end of the lower return spring into the shoe's slot. I am using original springs.

I have a hook that I can use to pull the end down. Takes a lot of strength, that I seem to be lacking. Even when close, I have no way to move it toward the slot so it will catch. Have tried needle nose pliers and vice grips, but so far no luck. Taking a break!

Any suggestions or encouragement welcomed

By the way, I do see that this diagram shows the upper spring touching the adjuster (as Roncallo said it should) It shows it mounted on the outside. Mine were mounted like that. I see in post Roncallo's first post that he had the spring mounted on the back of the shoes. I have read others say that is where it should be. But FSM drawing doesn't show that. Maybe some cars are different?

 

[MBGraham]

I finally got that bottom hook in. Hard to explain how. I tried all kinds of ways and tools. Not sure, but I think I tilted the shoe off to one side, then when I got the hook in approx correct spot with hook (or maybe levering with long screwdriver? - I forget) , pulled the shoe back . Took a number of tries, but last time it just clicked in!

Not going to do the other side. It looks fine and I have had enough! Not a fun job!

 

[Turbo510]

When you do this, be sure that the adjuster is screwed all the way in. That allows the shoes to be a little closer together, and makes fitting the spring easier. And almost goes without saying, the parking brake must be released.