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Be careful
With the striker

if I remember correctly they have a captive bolt that will fall into the door when you loosen it
 

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1986/1990 W126
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Sweet and thank you! Is there a bolt on the top part?
No the each upright section is hung on thick metal 'pins'. There may be bolts at the bottom of those sections to release once you have access to them by removing the squab.
So once those two bolts (if present) are removed it's just a case of pulling the seat backs upwards firmly to remove.
The great thing is that these bits of seat weigh almost nothing.
I was always having to whip out the reclining bench seat for access to the shocks, I was changing springs often for a while. Its cumbersome in comparison to these little sections that come out.
 

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Have: 1988 560sel Had: 1991 560sel
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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
Be careful
With the striker

if I remember correctly they have a captive bolt that will fall into the door when you loosen it
So you would essentially have to cut the door out?!? Mine is missing the complete bottom plastic piece.


No the each upright section is hung on thick metal 'pins'. There may be bolts at the bottom of those sections to release once you have access to them by removing the squab.
So once those two bolts (if present) are removed it's just a case of pulling the seat backs upwards firmly to remove.
The great thing is that these bits of seat weigh almost nothing.
I was always having to whip out the reclining bench seat for access to the shocks, I was changing springs often for a while. Its cumbersome in comparison to these little sections that come out.

Thanks!





Went to go change the instrument cluster lights to LED lights but I couldn't get it out with the hanger I had so I decided to wipe down the engine bay a bit. This is about 40 mins of work. Nothing other than soap, water, sponge, toothbrush and microfiber cloth.



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Car Wheel Tire Vehicle Motor vehicle








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87 Euro500HVSEC. 88 Euro 560HVSEC. 89 Euro 560HVSEL
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Jump onto Pelican Parts webiste and buy a new radiator fluid bottle as it looks pretty crusty & stained. (should look like your wiper fluid container behind it)
Sometimes you can restore them by soaking (filling them up) with a decent de-geasing agent for couple of days once removed from the engine bay
Have a go at restoring your air filter lid and giving it a good polishing with an alloy polish

As to the door striker
Use a non permanent marker or pencil to mark where the striker plate sits so you can fit the new one back in the exact same place
You need to use an impact gun with a decent allen key and not a cheap one so you dont destroy the bolt head. Trying to do by hand usually wrecks the bolt head as you can't shock the bolt loose
When you get one loose you leave it still threaded but do not remove it before doing the other one
When both are loose you only remove one and always have one in place so the backing plate inside the channel does not drop down
You can tighten by hand when re-installing the bolts and don't use the impact gun as it will most likely make them too tight unless you can set the torque value
 

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Have: 1988 560sel Had: 1991 560sel
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Thanks for the info especially the door striker. That was my next search and you just saved me time. I was trying to figure out if you HAD to use an impact wrench or not. I have a battery operated dewlap impact so I'm hoping that will do that job and I will make sure to get a quality allen key. I've already ordered the mayle one to switch the guts.


As far as the air filter I personally would never polish it. I'm very much NOT fan of polished anything under the hood. I'd rather have it powder coated or paint it with proper paint. Polishing stuff sucks ESPECIALLY when it's under the hood and .0001% of the people you ever meet are going to see it lol.



As far as the radiator fluid bottle, does it have any impact or anything or just visuals?
 

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Just buy a new radiator bottle no use trying to remove the yellowing it’s impossible
 

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Have: 1988 560sel Had: 1991 560sel
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Just buy a new radiator bottle no use trying to remove the yellowing it’s impossible
Just buy a new radiator bottle no use trying to remove the yellowing it’s impossible

Eh doesn't bother me as long as it's functional. I'd rather spend that $40 somewhere else.



Any info on blocking off the SLS lines?!?! I can't find anything other than it's possible and people have supposedly done it.
 

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87 Euro500HVSEC. 88 Euro 560HVSEC. 89 Euro 560HVSEL
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You have to remove the SLS Pump and instal instead a blanking plate which can be purchased online (or make one out of a piece of alloy to cover the hole in the timing cover and your done
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
That's what I did to my last car but I kept reading that it was possible to let it recirculate by blocking off the lines in the rear. I would like to do that if possible this time but can't someone actually showing or telling what's needed.
 

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'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250 "Grandpa's Roadster" Project Car, 350SDL (Sold)
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Sure, it's possible. As long as the SLS valve stays in the neutral position, it will recirculate all day long. Just plug the lines going to the (removed) SLS struts. However, if the valve moves off of neutral then the pump will be loaded and all the lines pressurized. Wasted power. Or, you could just connect the pump outlet back to the inlet.

Still, the best thing is to remove it completely. No point in wearing out an SLS pump doing nothing useful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Sure, it's possible. As long as the SLS valve stays in the neutral position, it will recirculate all day long. Just plug the lines going to the (removed) SLS struts. However, if the valve moves off of neutral then the pump will be loaded and all the lines pressurized. Wasted power. Or, you could just connect the pump outlet back to the inlet.

Still, the best thing is to remove it completely. No point in wearing out an SLS pump doing nothing useful.

Ok I'll probably just remove it again.


My problem is still what's need to block off the line?!?! The last time I cut the hose behind the water pump because it was in danger rubbing against the pulley and I simply removed the lines from the shocks. BOTH of them were just hanging there. This time I want to block them off properly.

At what point in the lines can you properly and safely block them off?
 

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I'm not sure I understand your question. Are you saying you're removing the pump but retaining the struts? I guess I assumed you would be replacing the struts with shocks, and the SLS springs with regular ones. Once that's done, I'd either remove the lines or cap them off with rubber plugs or something. You can get special cap fittings for some hydraulic lines, might be worth looking in to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I'm not sure I understand your question. Are you saying you're removing the pump but retaining the struts? I guess I assumed you would be replacing the struts with shocks, and the SLS springs with regular ones. Once that's done, I'd either remove the lines or cap them off with rubber plugs or something. You can get special cap fittings for some hydraulic lines, might be worth looking in to.

YES THOSE PLUGS!!!! WHERE?!?!?!?!??! And exactly where do you cap off the lines? That's all I want to know is where do you get them? What size, type, and where is the best place to plug them off?
 

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There are two lines at the bottom of the leveling valve join (loop) them together. That’s all.
 

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YES THOSE PLUGS!!!! WHERE?!?!?!?!??! And exactly where do you cap off the lines?
OK, I'm still confused. You want to cap off the lines, but you don't know where to do it? What am I missing? What exactly are you trying to accomplish? Are you trying to use the struts as shocks? (That won't work well...) Anyhow, google "hydraulic hose caps and plugs." Try a local hydraulic hose shop. Try Grainger.
 

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I am confused on this too? If disconnecting the SLS system then you need to replace the springs for non SLS assist version as they are too soft without hydro support and you need to swap in conventional shocks
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
There are two lines at the bottom of the leveling valve join (loop) them together. That’s all.
Is there any other parts needed to do this? This would be my preferred method.

OK, I'm still confused. You want to cap off the lines, but you don't know where to do it? What am I missing? What exactly are you trying to accomplish? Are you trying to use the struts as shocks? (That won't work well...) Anyhow, google "hydraulic hose caps and plugs." Try a local hydraulic hose shop. Try Grainger.

I am confused on this too? If disconnecting the SLS system then you need to replace the springs for non SLS assist version as they are too soft without hydro support and you need to swap in conventional shocks


Sorry for the confusion. Im very well aware that I will need regular struts as that's the plan and I've done it on my last car.

I want to know WHERE in the line system you should cap off the lines and WHERE can I get these caps?

If you remove the SLS pump you can't simply cap off the line that runs behind the water pump. It just moves all around and is in danger of rubbing against the crank pulley. Last time I took a knife and cut the hose on the left side of the water pump and just let it hang out there in a safe place where it wouldn't get caught in anything or make noise. This time I'd rather not do that. I'd rather cap off the lines properly or recirculate the system .
 

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All you need is a coupling to join those two lines together. Sorry I don’t know the exact size of the coupling but it can’t be anym than a couple bucks.
 

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Why don't you just remove the lines? Seems that would be the cleanest way. Otherwise, what is the point of closing them off? How about driving golf tees in the ends? If there's no pump and no struts then there's nothing to recirculate.
 
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