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1967 250 S (sold) 1986 560 SEC 1987 560 SL
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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings:

Just wondering a ball-park on how much a 2-stage paint job for an SEC would cost. No rust, a few dings. Diamond Blue metallic with the metallic gray for the bumper covers and gravel guards. $5000, $10,000? Any comments would be appreciated.

Thankyou,

John
 

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Always Remembered RIP
1990 560sec
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48 Posts
10k easy,that being said its all in the prep work.takes alot of time to get any car ready for paint.
 

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1990 560 SEL with Euro engine, 1998 SL500 Sport
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2,957 Posts
Depends on what kind of paint job you are looking for. Most of the work is in the prep and the wet sanding/wheeling afterwards to get rid of orange peel and imperfections.

If you want a decent, run-of-the mill paint job, figure around $2,500-$3,500. A very good paint job is $5-6k on average and a concourse/show car quality paint job can cost in the $10-15k range. Figures can vary if you can do some of the prep yourself.

Keep in mind hi-quality paint and clear can cost well over $1,000 alone. The production quality stuff much less. If you are looking for an everyday good quality paint job, consider doing the prep yourself and then take it to a place like Maaco. That should cost around $2-2.5k depending on location. Then you can always wet sand what they do for a nicer finish.

There's no cheap way out, and you get what you pay for. Painting a car correctly is a LOT of work.
 

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1985 300SD 1988 560SEC 822 1976 450SEL 1981 300SD
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1,075 Posts
Do the R&I yourself...

...it'll be done right, mostly due to the knowledge shared here on the forum....mine is coming out to 3K for material alone...turn-key 10K from a reputable shop I figure around here.
 

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99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB
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2,282 Posts
As previously stated it depends on the labor cost of the market...
Typically an authorized Merc collision center runs about $7K for a factory quality finish.

I did a "show quality" Glasurit 90 water based system for $6.5K...material cost alone was $2.3K, balance very low labor rate which included many hours of color sanding and buffing..
Below is the quality of the paint which still has one last buff out...



 

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1989 560SEC
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2,056 Posts
As previously stated it depends on the labor cost of the market...
Typically an authorized Merc collision center runs about $7K for a factory quality finish.

I did a "show quality" Glasurit 90 water based system for $6.5K...material cost alone was $2.3K, balance very low labor rate which included many hours of color sanding and buffing..
Below is the quality of the paint which still has one last buff out...



Stunning!
Mike
 

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Premium Member
2012 CL550 4MATIC Coupe
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9,992 Posts
Greetings:

Just wondering a ball-park on how much a 2-stage paint job for an SEC would cost. No rust, a few dings. Diamond Blue metallic with the metallic gray for the bumper covers and gravel guards. $5000, $10,000? Any comments would be appreciated.

Thankyou,

John
Jon White from SD and Mapearso and others have dues my guy and he charges about three grand. He does a show quality job too. He's not the fastest because he's so in demand.

I can ride herd on him and the train is here that will take you back to SD.
 

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1967 250 S (sold) 1986 560 SEC 1987 560 SL
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1,308 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks all for your wisdom. I should have mentioned in my OP that I painted the car myself and was wondering how much I saved even though the paint does not look that great. Gotta report this kinda stuff to my better half so I can continue to have this hobby. mclare, thanks for your offer; I'm gonna ride with my paint job for a while and see if I want to have a pro like your guy redo it...

Just finished sanding out the orange peel and polishing. Looks ok.

Hat off to all...

John
 

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1990 560 SEL with Euro engine, 1998 SL500 Sport
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Jon White from SD and Mapearso and others have dues my guy and he charges about three grand. He does a show quality job too. He's not the fastest because he's so in demand.

I can ride herd on him and the train is here that will take you back to SD.
I know I've said this before Mike, but that guy is a steal of a deal!!! I would have driven my car to CA to save that kind of money!

Seems, geography makes a big difference. Here in the Motown area, some of the hi-end painters charge big money. I personally have seen show car paint jobs cost upwards of $20K for painting a car that's in the auto show. These of course would be corporate jobs for the Big Three or some big dollar collector who has the cash. Of course you can hire some of these guys on the side and they could probably do it for much less.
 

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1985 300SD with a bad transmission and a 1985 300SD with a good transmission
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578 Posts
Hey OP,

Can we get some pics of what you did yourself? That's something to be proud of :)
 

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Two '87 570SECs, one '87 560SEL
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The price of the paint job on my SEC was about half retail (in 2001) because I helped the painters. When he got the car, the bumpers, headlights, tail lights, and turn signals were still on the car - **everything** else to be painted was in the back seat and trunk. Then we took off the bumpers, etc. When the car and pieces were painted, we put the bumpers and lights back on and all the rest I put on when I got the car home.

As succinctly stated earlier, labor costs are a major part of the cost of the job. The more you can do rather than the painting staff will save you cost.

FYI, one little trick that the painter should know - gently put a 1/4" rope under the rubber seal for the rear window which lifts it off the bodywork. That let's the paint flow under the rubber seal so that when the rope is (gently) removed, the seal sits down on fresh paint without a seam up against the rubber. It looks like the rear window was removed to do the painting. The front doesn't matter since the SS trim covers the seal.

Also, I had my car painted in Chrysler Bright Silver (PS2) rather than Mercedes Bright Silver (744) and now I can buy all the paint I want at any Pep Boys rather than at a Mercedes stealership. YMMV
 

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1990 W124 200E (daily driver), 1988 C126 560SEC (weekend fun)
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104 Posts
FYI, one little trick that the painter should know - gently put a 1/4" rope under the rubber seal for the rear window which lifts it off the bodywork. That let's the paint flow under the rubber seal so that when the rope is (gently) removed, the seal sits down on fresh paint without a seam up against the rubber. It looks like the rear window was removed to do the painting. The front doesn't matter since the SS trim covers the seal....
A really bright idea!!! I'll remember that when i will be painting mine.
But I wonder if there is a similar trick for the sonroof seal?? I'm pretty sure mine is stock (never been touched) and i don't want to disturb its alignment while removal for a paintjob...
 

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1990 560 SEL with Euro engine, 1998 SL500 Sport
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FYI, one little trick that the painter should know - gently put a 1/4" rope under the rubber seal for the rear window which lifts it off the bodywork. That let's the paint flow under the rubber seal so that when the rope is (gently) removed, the seal sits down on fresh paint without a seam up against the rubber. It looks like the rear window was removed to do the painting. The front doesn't matter since the SS trim covers the seal.
That's exactly what I did on mine. Works like a charm... and yes, you don't have to remove the windshield!

Also, a cut cost cutting factor is the paint. You can go with Glasurit which is very expensive OR you can save money and use other high-quality brands. I used House of Kolor, which is a very respectable company. Their paint is terrific and their base colors are a bargain comparatively speaking. My car was black so it wasnt that big of an issue. I saved a ton that way as the paint was about $180 a gallon vs. over $600 for Glasurit. I used SPI clear which at $140/gal. is as good as any $400+clear. Materials are a big cost factor. I screwed up a few times and had to repurchase materials so it really can add up.
 

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Two '87 570SECs, one '87 560SEL
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Since its Chrysler paint is it a lot lower quality, if so a big difference?
Mine is PPG paint but don't know if the painter used the top quality PPG. He was a friend so I'd hope he did but I'm not sure. The fancy expensive MB paint had already faded so anything new was going to look great. Today it still looks perfect so I'm happy (but that's likely the result of spending most of it's life in a garage).
 

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Premium Member
1995 W124 E320, 1982 W123 240D, 1991 W126 560SEL, 1993 W201 190E, 1978 C107 450SLC, 1992 W140 300SD
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468 Posts
Does anyone have a good write up of what steps need to be taken in prep and post spray? I'm currently looking to have rear section of a car resprayed to match factory metalic paint after a meticulous rust repair (cut, weld, grind, fill, sand) job.

I haven't started sanding off the paint in the non repaired areas but the paint will have to be "rear door to rear door" to make it look perfect. Planning to sand down to original primer and then bring to an MB recommended body shop to respray and match color/age.

Thank you,
Dmitry
 

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99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB
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2,282 Posts
Planning to sand down to original primer and then bring to an MB recommended body shop to respray and match color/age.

Thank you,
Dmitry
No need to sand down to primer or bare metal unless you think something like filler or rust is hiding underneath.

If the existing color coat is sound and not flaking, then it only needs to be roughed up to allow the new paint or primer to adhere...

If you've done body work then best to shoot a coat of primer and sand to see where your high/low spots are..this will allow you to skim coat and sand the area to eventually get the correct surface/contour of the panel...
 

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1967 250 S (sold) 1986 560 SEC 1987 560 SL
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Discussion Starter #20
Hey OP,

Can we get some pics of what you did yourself? That's something to be proud of :)
zombiehunter-

I appreciate your interest, but, sadly, I am not very proud of it. :( While most of the orange peel came out there are some areas where it feels shiny but looks cloudy. Fortunately, this board has given me some good ideas about how to proceed to remedy the paint and I will gladly post pics when done...

Regards,

John
 
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