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Discussion Starter #1
My 300 is going to get a new paint job soon, 800-900$, it's white (profile pic) with gray trim. Should I keep it white or go for black? And I have those shinny rims so I'm thinking black would set it off nicely. And if I get black should I get the gray trim black too? Thanks any suggestions
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok good advice, since my white paint is not terrible is there something around 800-900$ that would improve the look even more than paint?( I have new rims and tinted the windows btw)
 

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Perhaps get a color sanding or claybar and do a good buffing. Mine is the same color combo and it always get compliments for a 20 yr old car. You cannot get get a quality job for the estimate you have.
 

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I have to agree with the above comments. In my opinion, the nicest car in the world in white (besides a porsche 930 turbo) is a w126. If you plan on keeping your baby, take her to a professional detailer in your area having them color sand the car, and then full wax. Before taking your car there, read many many reviews. Then go there inspect the work, and ask many questions. I wrote down the order in which they detail your car later on in this post, so you can make sure they know what the hell they are doing. If your car's clear coat is not peeling off, and your paint is just scratched and dull, then that (color sand/wax) is the best route:thumbsup: I know how annoying it is to have a car that needs a paint job, but the money is not there. Trust me, for even 1,000 dollars, you will have a non clearcoat (hard to polish, and even stains from bird shit) that will last literally last 7-10 months, while a good 4,000-7,000 paint job will last decades, just wash 3 times a month, and wax a 6 or more times a year, depending on wheather conditions, if you have a car cover, which if you keep the car stored outdide, should get. I saved for the california car cover SUPERWEAVE MATERIAL, costing about 400dollars. I can leave the cover on outside pouring rain, or extreme heat, and the car will stay perfectly dry, and dust free. It is extremely breathable. My 560sel was tapped in traffic at 3 mph, no seen damage to the bumper except scrape. The insurance paid for the bumper to be painted, and ended up costing 1,800 just to have a no orange-peel and clear-coated rear bumper. Wait as long as you can to have the car painted.
Just close your eyes, and picture what that paint was like when she was new on the showroom floor.
Like I said, best to spend 300 bucks (ballpark, likely less) and have her color sanded and fully waxed. When you ask the detailer how his process works, here is the order:
1. Hand wash (no machine drivethrough, really [email protected]@@s up the paint/glass)
2. Clay the whole car
3. Polish the paint, insist on him only using a DA buffer (no swirl marks)
4. Wax (either hand or buffed on)
If you want to have the car color sanded, then they first measure the thickness of the paint with a little electronic tool. Depending on the severity of the imperfections, the detailer will then wet sand the entire car, making the paint dull. The detailer should go in only 1 direction when sanding. Make sure exactly how much clear coat will be sanded off. The detailer SHOULD say something like .1-.3
When the car is fully dull, then comes the THICK layer of wax. Once completed, all oxidization, scratches, swirls, blemishes will be removed, giving you a car show quality pain job. However, the car will only look as good as it was painted. So if the car has original paint or has been professionaly painted a few years ago, we are talking factory new. If the car has a really low quality paint job on her now, dont spend the money on the detail, and save up for a top quality respray
My wrist hurts:D
Der Bomber:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have to agree with the above comments. In my opinion, the nicest car in the world in white (besides a porsche 930 turbo) is a w126. If you plan on keeping your baby, take her to a professional detailer in your area having them color sand the car, and then full wax. Before taking your car there, read many many reviews. Then go there inspect the work, and ask many questions. I wrote down the order in which they detail your car later on in this post, so you can make sure they know what the hell they are doing. If your car's clear coat is not peeling off, and your paint is just scratched and dull, then that (color sand/wax) is the best route:thumbsup: I know how annoying it is to have a car that needs a paint job, but the money is not there. Trust me, for even 1,000 dollars, you will have a non clearcoat (hard to polish, and even stains from bird shit) that will last literally last 7-10 months, while a good 4,000-7,000 paint job will last decades, just wash 3 times a month, and wax a 6 or more times a year, depending on wheather conditions, if you have a car cover, which if you keep the car stored outdide, should get. I saved for the california car cover SUPERWEAVE MATERIAL, costing about 400dollars. I can leave the cover on outside pouring rain, or extreme heat, and the car will stay perfectly dry, and dust free. It is extremely breathable. My 560sel was tapped in traffic at 3 mph, no seen damage to the bumper except scrape. The insurance paid for the bumper to be painted, and ended up costing 1,800 just to have a no orange-peel and clear-coated rear bumper. Wait as long as you can to have the car painted.
Just close your eyes, and picture what that paint was like when she was new on the showroom floor.
Like I said, best to spend 300 bucks (ballpark, likely less) and have her color sanded and fully waxed. When you ask the detailer how his process works, here is the order:
1. Hand wash (no machine drivethrough, really [email protected]@@s up the paint/glass)
2. Clay the whole car
3. Polish the paint, insist on him only using a DA buffer (no swirl marks)
4. Wax (either hand or buffed on)
If you want to have the car color sanded, then they first measure the thickness of the paint with a little electronic tool. Depending on the severity of the imperfections, the detailer will then wet sand the entire car, making the paint dull. The detailer should go in only 1 direction when sanding. Make sure exactly how much clear coat will be sanded off. The detailer SHOULD say something like .1-.3
When the car is fully dull, then comes the THICK layer of wax. Once completed, all oxidization, scratches, swirls, blemishes will be removed, giving you a car show quality pain job. However, the car will only look as good as it was painted. So if the car has original paint or has been professionaly painted a few years ago, we are talking factory new. If the car has a really low quality paint job on her now, dont spend the money on the detail, and save up for a top quality respray
My wrist hurts:D
Der Bomber:thumbsup:
Thanks for the detailed respond, my paint is factory and with dull and some little paint chips that small rocks have hit. So ask them to sand and wax it?
 

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Yes,
with factory paint, you are a prime canditate for "color sanding" and then a full car wax. I hope everything works out, make sure to read atleast 10 reviews of the detailer before visiting them in person. Dont be shy, ask several questions, because they work for you. If you want, give me the name and phone number of the detailer you are really interested in, and I will give them a call for you. I will then write what my encounter was with them after the call. Take your time, why rush. I am stuck in West Coast time, so I will probably call them this Saturday, giving you time to shop around:thumbsup:
Der Bomber (David)
 

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You can do it yourself. Did mine last year, but didnt trust myself to sand it.
Cut the finish back with a range of different products instead and then worked back up through using less coarse each time. Came out great.
Its hard work though.
 
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