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Discussion Starter #1
For the longest time i've experienced a weird jerking when putting the car into drive/reverse and not giving gas. The car would jerk back and forth when coasing, felt like a bad motor mount. Anyways after a complete tune up, new trans fluid, new motor mounts the problem did not go away.

I ended up buying a icarsoft mbII scanner, and upon scanning the car i found (2) stored codes.

They are "Diagnosis of tumble flap intake manifold : Short circuit to ground of sensor lines / tumble flap shafts stick in the actuated position (p2004)"

Is this the common intake manifold problem i've been reading about?
 

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If you won't do it by yourself, don't bother to fix any flap, just swap to a new or rebuild manifold, based on my experience.
 

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Those work, but I would not use the URO brand.

There is one made using metal parts that is available. I saw it on youtube and somebody posted about in the forums, but I can't find the link.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Since my E still has a third party insurance and the manifold is covered under that insurance, i may get lucky and take it to the dealer for a brand new manifold with minimal cost to me. We shall see what happens next week.
 

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If you want to drive for another 10 years, it's better to change a new manifold because inside, all the moving parts(linkages and flap leaves) are made by plastic, so it will give you trouble soon, I think that is a design fault.
On the other side, if you want to fix and sell, go for a cheaper way although you will not save a penny on labor(could be over $1000).

*** One thing I can't understand, the flap is actived at engine's low RPM, that's mean this system is working (under pressure) at 99% of the time, definitely violate the common rules which a system should be at relaxed position on most of the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all of your replies.

So, i took to my local dealer for repair due to me having the break down insurance.

The dealer quoted $2000 for the job (not surprisingly), this includes a new manifold, gaskets, and injector o-rings. My out of pocket cost is $120 which is amazing, i'm very grateful for that.

If i did not have the break down insurance i would've just bought the replacement lever for $70 along with new gaskets and changed it myself.

Worst case scenario for me would've been purchasing a brand new manifold for $500 off of FCP euro and changing it out myself as well.

The job is pretty simple in terms of DIY work.
 

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My 2003 E500 just hit 184,000 miles. I recently had the Check Engine light come on and the MB Dealer said they couldn't repair some type of hose fitting inside the intake manifold, so they had to replace with a new intake manifold. The manifold part there was $1700 plus labor and other parts.......expensive obviously at a MB Dealer here in Northern Virginia. I'm now starting to take my vehicle for maintenance at a local independent MB repair shop which charges about half the rates of the MB Dealer........and they do good work. For example, just had the plugs replaced at $360.........last time a few years ago I had it done at my MB Dealer it was $690.
 

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intake manifold repair P2006/2004

I recently noticed that my car was running sluggish and just not performing as it used to. The Check engine light was not on. However, I had just purchased an OBD reader and wanted to check that it was working. Hooked it up and to my surprise there was P2006 code ...run flap error stuck open/closed. Car is a W211 E350 130000 Km .. After researching this I was able to remove the cover from the engine and actually see that the actuating lever (plastic) was broken. With the help of You Tube and the AllData I removed the manifold ...it was in good shape ,all flaps operating ..so I ordered the URO Premium repair kit from AutohausAZ. It comes with a Metal actuator lever and a replacement vacuum actuator with a metal rod (original it is plastic and breaks). ,I was reluctant to use URO but had read that a number of DIYers had used them an so far satisfied. I received and installed them and so far very pleased. Parts installed seamlessly and function as suppose to. The biggest part of the job was displacing the wiring harness so you could remove the manifold. There are 4 or 5 vacuum hoses to remove and about 20 or more connectors. I also loosened the secondary air pump which I would recommend as it gives you access to a vacuum hose that attaches to the manifold behind it . There is a wire running to the front of the engine..the connector is behind the water outlet pipe and difficult to get at ,I wouldn't recommend removing it as it took me 15-20 to reattach-and you can get the harness moved to the side enough to remove the manifold. I replace all the bolts after removing them so as not to get confused where to replace them . Minimal tools required..E10 socket and Torx 30. this was my first attempt at working on this engine, the job took me approx 6-8 hours. I think the WIS allows 3-4 hours . When replacing the new gaskets for the intake manifold I stole an idea from A DIYer and put string through 3 of the 4 bolt holes on each side at tied it back to the fuel rail for easy release after the manifold was in place and after putting in a bolt loosely tightened to allow for removal of string...worked great. The car runs fabulous and no codes after a few hundred kilometers. The quality of the URO parts looks good ..her's hoping !..

Parts :
AutohausAZ is where I purchased them from.
2721402401RPRM.....URO premium intake manifold adjuster repair kit $153.00 USD comes with actuator metal lever ,bolt,vacuum actuator with metal rod

2721412280 and 2721412380 intake manifold gaskets $3.86 USD ea.
 

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Fix tumble flaps if the car runs fine?

Just drove our 2006 E350 90,000 miles) to Virginia from California. Ran like a top, gas mileage 26+ over 3700 miles (we wander around a bit). Took car to Silver Star Motors in Fairfax for an oil change before the trip back home. The owner Peter advised me that the tumble flap arm is broken and the intake maniforld needed replacement. He did not recommend the replacement arm quick repair. We talked for some time, and I was impressed with his knowledge and shop. He said the flaps are set to the wide open position.

Drove the car back home, still runs fine, same good mileage, no Check Engine Light.
Only change is a slightly "throater" sound at low speeds.

My question is:

Fix it or let it go and see if I pass the biannual smog check next year??
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just drove our 2006 E350 90,000 miles) to Virginia from California. Ran like a top, gas mileage 26+ over 3700 miles (we wander around a bit). Took car to Silver Star Motors in Fairfax for an oil change before the trip back home. The owner Peter advised me that the tumble flap arm is broken and the intake maniforld needed replacement. He did not recommend the replacement arm quick repair. We talked for some time, and I was impressed with his knowledge and shop. He said the flaps are set to the wide open position.

Drove the car back home, still runs fine, same good mileage, no Check Engine Light.
Only change is a slightly "throater" sound at low speeds.

My question is:

Fix it or let it go and see if I pass the biannual smog check next year??
The car will pass smog unless it somehow ends up throwing a code.

But, i recommend fixing it. After i had my manifold replaced there was a major difference in how the engine felt and responded at low rpm's.
 

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It's just going to get worse. I'd fix it now. After extensive reading on the subject, I'd just replace the whole manifold unless you're just interested in a short term fix. While you can just buy the individual part, the inside of the manifold also gets gummed up over time also and even with the new lever, the rods might break as it will be more difficult to move the flaps inside the manifold. If you don't want to worry about it just get a new Pierburg manifold, they were OEM for MB. Probably eeuroparts at $445 or FCPEuro at $455, the latter has a lifetime warranty but if they last 120-160k, you probably won't need it. The kicker is really the labor because I think even if you just replace the lever, it's still going to be 3-4 hours or more to take everything apart. You mind as well just do it once. If you DIY it, I suppose you could just do the lever and do it again in a few years when it acts up again.
 

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Just an update ...one month later ...car is running great. I have read that some members think you should just bite the bullet and replace the manifold. When I had the manifold off I wiped or cleaned all the ports and checked the plastic flaps and linkage. Everything look great and there was no build up of carbon deposits or dirt anywhere. All the plastic components looked and felt like new. The engine has 138,000km on it. I did the job myself..I would recommend the URO part as it comes with a metal lever and also include a new vacuum actuator with a metal (aluminum) rod. The lever (triangular plastic piece, which affords attached to the 3 rods coming from the vacuum actuators), typically breaks and also the plastic rod coming from the center vacuum actuator. This is why I recommend replacing both the triangular lever and vacuum actuator rod. The URO kit includes both, It also apparently modifies the travel distance so there is less stress on the linkage at the extreme travel locations . My recommendation (with limited experience ) ..if you can DIY opt for the URO fix.If not, have an INDY do it with the new Piersburg manifold.
 

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I think even if you just replace the lever, it's still going to be 3-4 hours or more to take everything apart. You mind as well just do it once.
For someone not DIY, how many hour will indy shop charge to replace the whole manifold vs just the lever only.
 

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The charge would probably be the same as the whole manifold has to be removed to replace just the lever.,.ALLDATA quotes 3 hours labor for re and re of intake manifold .
 

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Just an update ...one month later ...car is running great. I have read that some members think you should just bite the bullet and replace the manifold. When I had the manifold off I wiped or cleaned all the ports and checked the plastic flaps and linkage. Everything look great and there was no build up of carbon deposits or dirt anywhere. All the plastic components looked and felt like new. The engine has 138,000km on it. I did the job myself..I would recommend the URO part as it comes with a metal lever and also include a new vacuum actuator with a metal (aluminum) rod. The lever (triangular plastic piece, which affords attached to the 3 rods coming from the vacuum actuators), typically breaks and also the plastic rod coming from the center vacuum actuator. This is why I recommend replacing both the triangular lever and vacuum actuator rod. The URO kit includes both, It also apparently modifies the travel distance so there is less stress on the linkage at the extreme travel locations . My recommendation (with limited experience ) ..if you can DIY opt for the URO fix.If not, have an INDY do it with the new Piersburg manifold.
I thought there were some internal parts that you can't get at that get gummed up. Also with your mileage, it seems a little low, other people report problems in the 120-160k range, mine I think are still original and one is over 110k and the other over 90k. I think your 138k kilometers works out to about 86k in miles. So you may have a while to go before they get gummed up.
 

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In case of no check engine light and was told by indy shop that the intake manifold need to be replace because the tumble flap arm is broken.
Will MB Star DAS Xentry be able to see if this problem?
 

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In case of no check engine light and was told by indy shop that the intake manifold need to be replace because the tumble flap arm is broken.
Will MB Star DAS Xentry be able to see if this problem?
If the lever is broken, the arms should be in one position or another so either it's tuned for low or high rpm and you should either have problems at low or high rpms and you should notice performance problems. And the codes mentioned are regular CEL codes, not MB specific.
 
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