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12-CLS63/04-CLK55 AMG/03-CLK320 Conv SOLD/01-ML430 Good Riddance/01 E320 wagon RIP
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
A friend of mine had her CEL come on and the car is running with very little power until it get's into 5th and over 50 mph. I got a code P1402 which seems to be EGR restriction. When I removed the air intake duct to the turbo just to get it out of my way I noticed a considerable amount of oil laying in the front of the turbo intake as well as in the plastic air intake duct. It seems to be coming from the right hand valve cover (PCV).

Question: Is this normal? I understand the concept of crankcase ventilation but didn't think it should produce a puddle of oil in the intake.

Also, I removed the two bolts that seem to hold the EGR valve on (Difficult to get to in the back of the engine) but it would not budge. Is this just a tight fit or should I have removed something in addition to this. WIS has a very poor picture and talks about an EGR positioner and EGR cooler.

At this point I did not want to push my luck and break the valve by prying on it so I just put it back together.
 

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12-CLS63/04-CLK55 AMG/03-CLK320 Conv SOLD/01-ML430 Good Riddance/01 E320 wagon RIP
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Discussion Starter #2
Anyone out there cleaned/changed an EGR valve on a ML 320 CDI? Is it really just two bolts to remove?
 

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did you got fix the valve, or clean the part?

i have the same problem.

Can anybody tell me where to locate the EGR Valve?

thank you on any help,

is there any book that will tell me how to locate the valve?
 

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12-CLS63/04-CLK55 AMG/03-CLK320 Conv SOLD/01-ML430 Good Riddance/01 E320 wagon RIP
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Discussion Starter #4
The valve is in the back of the engine on the drivers side (left). It's a bit hard to reach but only has two bolts. I removed the bolts but could not get the valve out to clean it. Since it was not my car I did not want to take the chance of breaking the valve by hammering on it which is what I would have done on my own car.

Based on the symptoms and the research I did I am pretty sure this was the problem.I don't know if they ever took it back to the dealer for repair though
 

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i don't know how the valve looks, or how to find it.
do i need to take the air filters out?
do you have some pic that ca help.
please help.
 

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12-CLS63/04-CLK55 AMG/03-CLK320 Conv SOLD/01-ML430 Good Riddance/01 E320 wagon RIP
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Discussion Starter #6
You can barely see it behind the drivers side cylinder head. You need to remove to engine cover / air cleaner. I don't have a picture but attached is what I could find in WIS. It is a simple valve that looks like any other you would find on a domestic car.
EGRLocation.jpg
The second picture is looking at the engine from the back which puts the EGR just out of view in the upper left corner. The tube (#4) is the exhaust inlet to the EGR valve.
EGRRearView.jpg

Good luck. This is just in a tight spot and a bit of a knuckle buster.
 

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12-CLS63/04-CLK55 AMG/03-CLK320 Conv SOLD/01-ML430 Good Riddance/01 E320 wagon RIP
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Discussion Starter #7
Here is the procedure for an EGR positioner which I believe is actually the valve. The pictures are just about useless though. You need to figure out if yours is water cooled or not as well.
EGRProcedure.jpg
 

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2008 ML320CDI Iridium Silver/Black, NAV, P2 pkg, Sirius, Harmon Kardon. Active Bi-Xenon
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Had the dreaded P1402 code this past week. I was up in Vermont for some winter recreational activities. It was -8 F on Thursday AM, she started fine, but revs were limited and reduced power. Then after stopping for coffee, got a CEL (which I had Advance auto read later in the eve) I was able to get it to a heated garage. Sat for 3 hours then it was fine on restart. Same thing happened yesterday AM -2 F, this time I just drove it until I got to the interstate, then stopped and restarted, cleared up and no CEL this time. I am leaning toward EGR valve, which I assume isnt covered under CPO since its emissions and not listed on the CPO coverage. But also had a cam position sensor over the summer only one time. Not sure if related.
 

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2007 ML CDI, 1967 250SL(early), 1984 280 SL, 2004 E320 wagon, 2015 ML 250, 1999 E300TD
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I recently has a similar experience with my 07 ML CDI now woth 165 K miles.
I was parked out doors in NJ last week for about 6 hours during which the temp dropped to +5 deg and windy.
The engine strated fine , but before driving 100 feet it felt sluggish and would not rev over 3000 rpms, so I limped home using the paddle shifters to be abole to get to 60 mph.
Dopy me at the time did not ID it as "LIMP HOME" I thought I got some bad gas with water in it and it froze and that inhibited the acceleration. So I did not think to puul over and turn the engine off and on.
Anyway, I parked in the 50 deg garage over night and all is well.
No codes at all.
I did add a bottle of water sequesterer.
All remains well after 500 miles.
If it was the EGR or the swirl motor -I would have gotten a code, no ?
2 winters ago I left the beast out overnite in minus 3 deg weather and after strating the engine it ran for 10 seconds and died and would not restart. We pushed it into the garage and in 2 hours it started right up and ran perfectly.
That seems like a clear cut case of frozen fuel lines, but this recent mishap remains a mystery.
Any insight is welcomed.
thanks
jz
 

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2008 ML320CDI Iridium Silver/Black, NAV, P2 pkg, Sirius, Harmon Kardon. Active Bi-Xenon
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Zak,

It sounds like you have had the same issue. I didnt get a CEL on Sunday. The only difference was on Sunday I didnt shut down and restart until driving with engine at operating temp. When it acted up on Thursday I made 2 stops while engine was not at operating temp. Once for coffee and second for fuel. I think after the second stop is when it tripped the CEL. If I recall, the fault has to happen twice to get a CEL. I am going to leave it out next cold spell and see if I can get it to duplicate
 

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2007 ML350
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I’m not sure if the issues are the same, but there are enough similarities for me to share the recent advice I received.

The CEL on my 07 ML350 came on Sunday, so I took it to my Indie yesterday. He diagnosed the issue as a faulty thermostat and replaced. That problem fixed.

However, he also brought to my attention a stored fault code 2768 (or could be 2718 writing not very legible), which he said showed 2 occurrences, but unfortunately he couldn’t tell the date of the incidents. He wanted to know if any transmission work, if I recall correctly, he asked about conductor valve being changed; or if I had experience any sluggishness, and the vehicle basically going nowhere , even rev at high RPM, with problem resolving itself by simply turning off the engine and restarting. Never experienced that problem, so I’m thinking it must have occurred with the previous owners as I bought the van 5 months ago.

Anyway, he cleared the code since it was not “current and stored” and I wasn't experiecing the symptoms (by clearing he said if the same code is again stored, he would know that it occurred during my ownership). He told me to monitor the transmission behaviour, as the code I have stated above (component Y3/8n2) is an indication that the internal speed sensor is defective.

For whatever it's worth, thought I would share this information since the symptoms and quick fix resolution (restarting engine) are the same.
 

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2008 ML320CDI Iridium Silver/Black, NAV, P2 pkg, Sirius, Harmon Kardon. Active Bi-Xenon
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Interesting that you mention transmission. I have this nagging issue where it doesnt always downshift to first unless you actually come to complete stop and sit for 5 seconds or longer. Most noticeable when cold, almost like a nudge from behind when it finally gets to first. Thanks for info.
 

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ML320 CDI 2008
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Hi guys, I get the same problem than yours. when it's cold ( around 15F) I got no power and is not limp mode, I can shift the trans manually. If I stop for and restart after few minutes, the car goes normally. the first time I read the MIL code I got P1402 and P0340 pending and same as store code.
I clear all code this morning today it was 2F and same problem I read the code and only have P1402 pending with MIL on. I went for a ride and stop few time and the car still have no power.
I notice that the temp never reach normal operating value (195F) I plug the ODBII reader and the temp after 5 miles ride was at 178F and leaving the car on idle it start to go down. so I thought that some Prestone was missing, but the tank is full. could it be only a defective thermostat that bring us those troubles. I think that the ERG is only active when the car is cold isn't it.
 

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08 ML 320 CDI, 99 ML320 V6, 00 CLK430 Cab
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A friend of mine had her CEL come on and the car is running with very little power until it get's into 5th and over 50 mph. I got a code P1402 which seems to be EGR restriction. When I removed the air intake duct to the turbo just to get it out of my way I noticed a considerable amount of oil laying in the front of the turbo intake as well as in the plastic air intake duct. It seems to be coming from the right hand valve cover (PCV).

Question: Is this normal? I understand the concept of crankcase ventilation but didn't think it should produce a puddle of oil in the intake.

Also, I removed the two bolts that seem to hold the EGR valve on (Difficult to get to in the back of the engine) but it would not budge. Is this just a tight fit or should I have removed something in addition to this. WIS has a very poor picture and talks about an EGR positioner and EGR cooler.

At this point I did not want to push my luck and break the valve by prying on it so I just put it back together.
There is a video on youtube showing a guy removing the egr valve which was clogged badly with carbon. He had to hammer it pretty good to get it off due to it being frozen up with carbon. There may have been a third bolt but I'm not sure.
 

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2008 ML320CDI Iridium Silver/Black, NAV, P2 pkg, Sirius, Harmon Kardon. Active Bi-Xenon
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478 Posts
Hi guys, I get the same problem than yours. when it's cold ( around 15F) I got no power and is not limp mode, I can shift the trans manually. If I stop for and restart after few minutes, the car goes normally. the first time I read the MIL code I got P1402 and P0340 pending and same as store code.
I clear all code this morning today it was 2F and same problem I read the code and only have P1402 pending with MIL on. I went for a ride and stop few time and the car still have no power.
I notice that the temp never reach normal operating value (195F) I plug the ODBII reader and the temp after 5 miles ride was at 178F and leaving the car on idle it start to go down. so I thought that some Prestone was missing, but the tank is full. could it be only a defective thermostat that bring us those troubles. I think that the ERG is only active when the car is cold isn't it.
Sounds like your thermostat is fine. Usually when bad, you can drive 10 miles or more and only get to 120 degrees F. I still have not had time to pull the EGR valve. Am hoping to do that before heading north for the holiday. Right now its more of an annoyance, as I can bring it up to temp, shut off and usually goes away, as the EGR valve is up to temp and the gunk is soft enough for the valve to open.
 

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2007 E320 Bluetec, 2008 320ML CDI
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There is a video on youtube showing a guy removing the egr valve which was clogged badly with carbon. He had to hammer it pretty good to get it off due to it being frozen up with carbon. There may have been a third bolt but I'm not sure.
I have watched this video and it seems like a fair amount of work to remove the valve. If you read the follow-on text, the valve cleaning did not cure his problem.
FWIW, I think there are only two bolts.

Skippy
 

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ML320 CDI 2008
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this morning my car refuses to start ( it was -22F this morning) all my gasoline vehicles start ( pick up Chevrolet, dodge Sebring, Toyota matrix). I spoke with the stealer to get the electric cable to plug the block heater, because the car is equip with it but with no electric connection????? I spoke with them for the erg problem and he told that Mercedes as approved since few months a cleaner the EGR valve for removing all the carbon with out removing it. ($300.00) ( may be we are late in Canada) supposed to be a new procedure ( they must have too much problems with the EGR)

so install the electric cable that was very easy to do 1/2 hour. and plug it and after few hour he start like summer time. I don't know if a diesel in good condition is supposed to start at that cold. so I think I will change My fuel filter ( looks old) and pass a battery check, that probably the original and the car is 5 years old. I don't know is diesel are able to start at that cold?

any body has tried that cleaning for the EGR at the dealer or buy the stuff and do it him self?
 

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2007 E320 Bluetec, 2008 320ML CDI
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-22F sounds like it was too much for your 5 year battery.
I think that standing voltage should be 12.5 (car off for overnight).
Your dash would show it as 12 volts as there is about 0.5 volt difference dash to battery.
The manual doesn't say when to use the block heater, just that Canadian models have it. Now that you are setup to plug in it might help extend the battery life.

Did the dealer provide any details on the EGR treatment other than price?

Skippy
 

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ML320 CDI 2008
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I look at the voltage with the message panel and it was under 12V ( 11.5) (car off for overnight) this is where I thought that the battery is weak so, I plug the boosting cable with my pickup running, but I know that diesel need a very strong cranking to start and it didn't work..

the dealer gave me the name of the treatment they approved but I didn't remember of the name, may be I can do it by my self. I can phone back to get the name. He mentioned about moving part that get stock. I'm quite sure that they are seeing that problem very often end they know exactly what is the problem.
 
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