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Yeah, but If you have ASR, you do not have ESP, and vice versa. Check the button on the center console above driver window switch, if it says ASR or ESP. If ASR, there is no steering angle sensor in your car, so no calibration is required for the steering angle.

With K40, I assume you mean K40/4 which is the fusepanel module you removed. In that case, I suggest you check the fuses on that module. And with the key in position 2, measure voltage on each fuse (with fuses in place, and probing access tabs on them, with respect to chassis ground). All fuses should have around 12V.
 

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Sequence is:

1.Foot on brake, transmission in park, parking brake on.
2.Start car - phots 1

IMG_3593.jpg
2 3.Remove foot from brake - photo 2 followed by photo 3 a few seconds later

IMG_3594 2.jpg
IMG_3595.jpg
 

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Fuses all check out. 12V on both sides of all fuses except the 40A to the secondary air pump because vehicle wasn't started.
 

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Why is your brake light ON ? Have you checked brake fluid level ?

And what happens if you start the car without pressing the brake pedal, then press the pedal and release with car in Park ?
 

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Mrboca - Problem solved (brake light is on because the parking brake is set)

Below is a picture of the unit prior to removal. Apparently the wires have to go back into the exact same slots as they came out of. :cool:

For example, if you were to stick that white connector next to the 15A fuse into one of the other empty holes where it will fit, you may have a problem.

mrboca - thanks so much for the info and suggestions and moral support.

I think the conclusion (leaving out my ham handedness above) is that the K40/4 may have a sticky secondary air pump relay. My local dealer has the part so if this thing acts up again I'll just swap it out but for now I'll drive it for a while and see how it goes.
IMG_3587.jpg
 

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Yeah, the white connector is important. It supplies power to the ETC (Electronic Traction Control, in your case the ASR module) :).

After the P0410 code clear in the ECU, the emission readiness indicators are reset. This also includes the Secondary Air Induction. If the emission readiness indicators are all passed, then you have an intermittent problem, either in the K40/4, or the pump motor itself (worn out brushes, not always starting the pump).
 

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I thought I'd post the pinouts for testing the K40/4k3 relay that controls the air pump in case anybody else would like to trouble shoot before spending $100+ on a part they might not need.

I tested the relay and I also applied 12V to the corresponding points on the wiring harness to makes sure the pump spun up so as to eliminate any possible wiring harness issues as a cause.

To test the relay, apply 12V across pins A2-pin #2 and B2-pin #4. You should hear a click. Place an ohm meter across pins C-pin #4 and A1-pin #7 and confirm continuity when 12V is applied and open circuit when it is removed.

If you want to test the wiring harness continuity to the pump and the pump itself, with key on and engine off, place a jumper on the wiring harness between C-pin #4 and A1-pin #7. If all is well you should hear the pump spin up. Don't leave it too long as it is drawing a lot of current - use heavy wire or just touch it for a moment to test.
 

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Actually, in your case, all you needed to do is to remove connector A2, and put the key in position 2, and jumper pin 2 of A2 to chassis ground. This will turn the relay on, and get the pump running. I do not recommend jumpering the relay contacts, as the pump draws excessive current 20 to 30 amps, so you will have sparking and contact erosion on the pin / socket on connector C. The wiring configurations change from W210 to W210, as K40/4 relay models and versions do change, so it has to be handled on case-by-case basis. Else, one may end up some expensive equipment damage.

So, is the P0410 problem solved now ? You indicated that the SAI pump did not receive power when the engine is cold-started, and you suspected the K40 relay.
 

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Excellent suggestion. In addition to all the issues you point out it has the added benefit of testing the relay components at the same time.

I would say if a sticky were to be made to diagnose and solve this problem that would be #1 on the list. Test air pump wiring and relay in one simple step.

My problem seems to be solved. CEL light is out and it passed Cal SMOG test today. Thanks again for all your help.
 

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Actually, the way I would test is even more comprehensive.

I would remove the engine coolant sensor connector, and temporarily jumper the harness connector pins with a 2.5K Ohm resistor. Then start the car. The resistor will "fool" the engine computer that the coolant is cool enough, so it would start the pump each time I start the car. This would also allow me to observe the changes in the O2 sensors to check whether the induced air affects the O2 readings.

This is a bit more technical, but allows you to test each part of the system.
 

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Very interesting and elegant solution. Most of the time you can't get on the pinout to perform this test so you have to remove the relay, then you have to test the relay and the wiring separately. Great idea.
 
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