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2001 E320 4matic wagon
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139 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Folks -- I've been away for a while which I suppose is a good thing (it means the car is running, right?), but apparently the W210 misses you all.

On the way to the autoglass place for a windshield (ironically the first thing we've had to fix in at least a year), the check engine light popped on just after my wife was starting the car. I've trained her well. She turned it off, called the autoglass place to cancel, then called me and told me to fix her car. I drove the car previously -- two night earlier -- No CEL and it ran great. It was below freezing, but she said the car started immediately. When the CEL didn't go away after a minute so she shut it down. I started it later, again fine, then checked codes with the OBD code. The only one showing (nothing pending) was P0335. I cleared the code and started the car a couple times -- it didn't come back or show as pending.

I know these CPS fail all the time, and I've been meaning to replace it anyway, but I do think it's odd that we have none of the usual symptoms that many people experience (stalling on freeway, no-start), meanwhile we do have the code but no symptoms. Maybe I should count my blessings that this is happening in the driveway, but still, it's weird. Any thoughts on it (weather related?), or should I save the speculation for grander topics and fix the damn thing?

I know this CPS comes in two versions, and I know I can go pull the connector and make sure I'm getting the right on BUT, it's snowing. And cold. So I'm hoping to do this with part numbers and the internet.

Here's the CPS I'm thinking of getting (mostly because the price is decent and Amazon will deliver it same day:

(Bosch, part number 0261210170) Notes: From Engine #(s) 30 370999, Optional​

My engine (according to data I pulled and saved from the RU EPC before they killed it) is: 112941 31 042292, which I think is reads as 31 042292. And since 31 is greater than the 30 their number starts with, I should be good to go. Right?

I also just found out that in my absence, my MBUSA EPC expired in Sept and Mercedes has since killed free EPC access. Bummer. If anyone still has access and can double check online, my vin is: WDBJH82J21X061262

Thanks in advance!
 

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2001 E320 4matic wagon
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139 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
One other question -- apparently there's a calibration process for the new sensor that most people skip. Because mine threw a code, I assume I should do it -- but is it enough? Does the fact that I had the 0335 code mean I need some sort of SDS calibration or should I be fine with the gradual acceleration technique?


From Ohlord back in 2008:

yea of little faith;)
No SDS indexing is needed,the proper procedure is directly after replacement.
Start the engine and slowly bring the rpms up over a period of 2 minutes from idle to 2500 rpms,this allows the new cps to index itself to the ECU and really set it into sync with the flywheel indexers.Do it and the car will run better,don't do it and you may never know what you are missing:thumbsup:
I haven't eaten any hats yet,nor do I run around with 10 year old brake fluid.However,It would be wise when the member that makes a habit of non maintenance of his and his family's vehicles learn something about anything before he opens his hat filled mouth and other orifices :thumbsup:
ohlord:bowdown:
 

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Dallas, Texas
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One other question -- apparently there's a calibration process for the new sensor that most people skip. Because mine threw a code, I assume I should do it -- but is it enough? Does the fact that I had the 0335 code mean I need some sort of SDS calibration or should I be fine with the gradual acceleration technique?
For normal engine operation reset and relearn of crank sensor is not necessary. If there is misfire associated with crank sensor replacement than reset and new adaptation is needed.
 

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2001 E320 4matic wagon
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139 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
E8 Torx and 1/4" SAE DO NOT INTERCHANGE

Hey Folks -- I got it all swapped in and (I think ) calibrated.

One point to note. Some people out there on the Internet claim you can interchange a 1/4" (SAE) socket in place of the correct E8 (external torx/star drive). Luckily we all know this is a bad idea, right?

But let's say, hypothetically, you own a set of external torx sockets but are unable to find them in your messy garage. In such case you might be tempted to try a handy 1/4" SAE socket so you can get on with your life.

You might even think you were being responsible and proactive by "testing" said 1/4" socket on another, easily accessible, E8 fitting. It may even "fit," allowing you to remove and reinstall the test fitting.

Even if that were the case, you should DEFINITELY NOT try to use the 1/4" socket on your actual hard-to-remove-even-with-the-proper-tools CPS. Remember, you're in a confined spot and are working pretty much by touch. You have no idea if the CPS was last installed by an over-torquing gorilla. You also have no idea if the over-torquing gorilla even used the correct tools. Perhaps said gorilla used one of those almost-fitting 1/4" sockets everyone on the Internet is raving about, resulting in a slightly stripped precious, hard-to-reach E8 bolt head, through (allegedly) no fault of your own.

In such case of a stripped bolt, the job, even with the properly fitting e8 socket, would be difficult. And one of those 1/4" socket you've been hearing so much about? That would just make a mess.

In fact, it turns out that the combination of an over-torqued bolt, cold hands working by feel, and a 1/4" socket will make a heck of a mess of even a pristine E8 bolt.

Or, um, so I hear.

I also hear that extraction of such a bolt, in the best of cases, is still going to take a couple very patient, back-wracking hours while you, hypothetically, of course, tap, tap, tap the now-correct E9 socket very gently with the tiny hammer that will fit in the limited space, hoping that it will eventually re-form the star and allow the socket to seat on the bolt. And when you get tired of trying to "swing" the damn hammer in about 1" of space, you might also try an automatic center punch, compress-pop, compress-pop, compress-pop, over and over again until the socket finally grabs the bolt enough that you risk attempting to attach a ratchet and give it a (gentle, well-pressured) pull.

Or, um, so I hear.

And if that works, you will very happily extract said bolt and CPS from the car, and swear to never, ever again, take a lazy, cheap shortcut with "almost-compatible" tools, so very glad that you don't have to resort to back-up plans involving dremel tools and bolt extractors and/or removing various fuel plumbing and ignition wiring.

Or, um, so I hear.

Seriously. Don't do it. E8 Torx and 1/4" SAE DO NOT INTERCHANGE, not matter what the internet geniuses tell you.
 

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1922 Ford T no OBD, no ECU, no SCN
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The 12-point SAE socket worked for me years ago, but those were the times when no local places would carry E-sockets, so I did not have many choices.
This is screw per my recollection, not machine bolt and takes minimal torque as it is securing fastener, not holding one. Design changed from year to year, so don't take anything for granted.
CPS is check by car computer at each restart, so once you replace it, the code will go to stored and will stay there forever, or till you clear it with SDS.
 

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2001 E320 4matic wagon
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139 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
FWIW, this thing just threw a check engine light again. Is two years and 10,000 miles really the lifespan of a Bosch (0261210170) CPS? Conciencidence that it's the same time of year as last time I got the CEL (it was below freezing last time; well below freezing last time). The car is no longer a daily driver. The car starts and runs fine (just like last time). The CEL went off on it's own on 3rd start. Could it just be ice on the sensor or something? I'm tempted to clear the code and let it ride. If I get it again I'll replace. Thoughts?
 

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2001 E320 4matic wagon
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139 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Remove the connector and clean both the sensor pins and the mating connector with contact cleaner or MAF cleaner.

Put some silicon grease on the connector gasket, against corrosion.
Thanks. Good suggestion. I'll do that and then either post back that it *didn't* work, or post back next year and say that it's still going strong! Much appreciated!
 
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