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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
P0175, replaced conductor plate, now no gears...help!

2000 ML320 95k

I finished replacing the conductor plate in the tranny today.
Removed 1.3gal fluid,(way more than the 3-4L expected), only refilled with 4L, thats all I had on hand.

Old fluid was dirty with particles and few micro specs of metal, but nothing serious, just incredibly dirty.

After re-installing everything, I started it up, shifted into D (which was noticebly smoother already), and slid slowly out of the garage. I stopped to back up and Reverse, and no go. Then back to D, no go again. There was no engagement by the tranny into any gear, nor was there a clunk when doing so.

So, it seems to me that the valve body isnt engaging, its electrical, or an acuator. My tranny electrical connector did have a little oil in it, but it wasnt flooded, I cleaned it thoroughly before reinstalling..

Any ideas would be great right now!!

Thanks,
Chris
 

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Practically every new member does not fully complete the registration form by including the year and model of their vehicle. Please click on USER CP to the left, then click on EDIT PROFILE, scroll down to ADDITIONAL INFORMATION and insert the year and model of your truck.

The code you posted, P0175 (System to Rich Bank 2) has nothing to do with your trans. problem. But before anything, I would add the almost one litre of fluid you are short and see if that makes things better. If not, you will have to retrace your steps in removal and installation of the conductor plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
P0175 is the tranny speed sensor problem. I replaced the conductor plate as was indicated above.
Now the gears do not engage. I am going to get the oil today but was curious if that could really be a problem, i.e. pressure in the system. I have retraced everything with no apparent issues.
 

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Outstanding Contributor Always Remembered RI
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P0175 is the tranny speed sensor problem. I replaced the conductor plate as was indicated above.
Now the gears do not engage. I am going to get the oil today but was curious if that could really be a problem, i.e. pressure in the system. I have retraced everything with no apparent issues.
To do the tranny plate means removing the valve body, I would re-check the internal gear lever connection (ive seen this go wrong before);) By that I mean the connection to the valve body. If its in the wrong position then this could happen. But how did you check the tranny oil level?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
There were 2 areas I though of and checked.
1. Metal lever which slides into gear slot, its seated as when removed.
2. Sliding piston with orangy/red plastic square piece of end.
It had to be pushed in/retracted into valve body, in order for the entire assembly to go back into the tranny. (i noticed when i removed the valve body, it slid out slowly)

The tranny oil is insufficient as I only had 3.5L (approx) on hand, but removed 5.5L in the disassembly. So I know its at least 2L low.
I am thinking this could cause a hydraulic problem as there is not enough fluid to actuate the valve body, but dont know at this point.
Lookinf for other ideas.

The tranny does not engage R or D, they both feel like N, engine just revs. There is not apparent lurch or thump when shifting between them either.

Thanks
 

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Put the fluid level right first and dont drive it until you have or damage could occur. Also check the fluid level with engine running and at normal working temperature approx 80 degrees C.
 

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P0175 is the tranny speed sensor problem. I replaced the conductor plate as was indicated above.
Now the gears do not engage. I am going to get the oil today but was curious if that could really be a problem, i.e. pressure in the system. I have retraced everything with no apparent issues.
The code you mean is P0715 which is the TurbineSpeed Sensor. As eric and I have suggested, put in the correct amount of fluid and lastly check with the proper dipstick, part #140 589 15 21 00. Then you will need a new idpstick tube cap, part #140 991 00 55. If the fluid process fails, you will have to drop the unit again and replace the RMP/speed sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
43sqd,

The first thing I am doing is getting the oil to get it back to the correct level. If that doesnt work, then it seems mechanical as I was told, even if there is an electrical issue, 1st gear forward shoud work either way.

I replaced the entire conductor plate because of the fault code so it would be odd for one of the sensors on there to be broken.
I would think it could be the valve body since its not actuating at all.

I will give you an update once I get the oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
what the hell is going on

ok TCM fine, dry as a bone.

Now, new but old problem.

Tranny again will not or barely engage R or D.

Heres the entire story.
I replaced the conductor plate draining 5.5L of fluid.
I put in 3L because thats what I had on hand, tranny wouldnt engage, slid right into R and D like they were N, no thump or jump as if a gear was engaged.
I put in another 1.5L and measured with disptick tool. Tranny engaged great but was still stuck in limp mode.
Dipstick says I am 1/2inch over max fill. I remove 1L and let the car sit for a while. Disptick measures acceptable level. I let the car sit because I needed to take it to the dealer the next day for the TCM/ECU.
ok, so again, car doesnt move, total oil replaced is 3.5L of 5.5L removed, but dipstick says I am at max when warm.

SOOOO, logic woudl dictate that fluid is low, thus the lack of engagement of gear, but dipstick says otherwise, whats the deal?????

FYI, when car started today, it moved slightly in R and D but after a few feet just started revving the engine, stopped moving. Waiting a few minutes, tried R and D again, moved a little bit and then revving.


Please someone give me the answer or is it just in front of me, forget the dipstick and put the same amount of fluid back in that I extracted, which was factory fill???
 

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You are supposed to check the fluid level with engine running, are you doing it this way or with engine off?
 

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When you originally started this thread, you simply said that you just replaced the conductor plate and listed the wrong DTC of P0175 (which is obviously P0715). You never stated why you did this repair in the first place. It's very difficult for anyone to assist you when you only listed the code, but not the problem/symptom(s) you were having prior to replacing the conductor plate.

How did you arrive at the fact that you needed a new conductor plate? Did someone tell you so? Was it simply because of the code? Did you read another thread which influenced you? What are the present codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Oil was checked with engine running.

I installed the conductor plate because the car was shifting erradically, then went into 1st gear limp mode. I pulled the code P0175 and after numerous forum checks, here and on mercedesshop and a friend at the dealer, all said that the speed sensor on the conductor plate was the issue with this code.

I replaced the conductor plate, removed 5.3-5.5L of oil, put back 3L to check level and it said it was nearly full. However, the tranny wouldnt engage any gear. So I added 1.5L more, it would then engage however I checked the level with the stick and it said it was over, so i removed 1 L and that put it at the max level. Now again, the tranny doesnt engage.

However, as my last msg stated, how can it be full if I removed 5.5L from the factory fill and only replaced 3.5L?
...with the tranny now not engaging again.
 

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Oil was checked with engine running.

I installed the conductor plate because the car was shifting erradically, then went into 1st gear limp mode. I pulled the code P0175 and after numerous forum checks, here and on mercedesshop and a friend at the dealer, all said that the speed sensor on the conductor plate was the issue with this code.

I replaced the conductor plate, removed 5.3-5.5L of oil, put back 3L to check level and it said it was nearly full. However, the tranny wouldnt engage any gear. So I added 1.5L more, it would then engage however I checked the level with the stick and it said it was over, so i removed 1 L and that put it at the max level. Now again, the tranny doesnt engage.

However, as my last msg stated, how can it be full if I removed 5.5L from the factory fill and only replaced 3.5L?
...with the tranny now not engaging again.
5.5 Ltr does seem a little high, we normally put 3 ltr and then start the engine and run the transmission through the gears after check the oil level and top up as required. Its possible that the valve body gasket is upside down and therefore blockin oil flow. Without the torque converter being drained, I dont know how you got so much fluid out:confused:

I would suggest you put back the same amount of fluid as was taken out and see what the effect is, maybe you have the wrong dipstick for your car:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Eric,
I have the 722.6 disptick for a 00ML320, that was what I was told was correct.

You mentioned something, a gasket. There was no gasket between any of the parts, valve body, etc. Where would this gasket be you are speaking of?

I dont know why so much came out either. It was more than expected.

But again, if I put anymore than 3.5 in the dipstick says I am over, it just doesnt make sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
well, i add the remainder of oil for a total of 5L. The tranny NOW engages.
How odd this was, for some reason I extracted a lot more than expected and the gauge didnt read correctly.

Now to get limp mode removed and see if that fixes my problems.
 

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chlubb, how's your ML now? Have you find out what the problem was?
His last overall post was on 2/14, so it is safe to assume that he is not a member who visits the forum regularly. I would suggest sending him a PM and ask how he made out.
 

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Darn I wish I would have known the outcome, my 2000 ML320 went into limp mode a few weeks ago and we replace the brake switch which wasn't the problem so we had codes pulled and we had the p 0 700 and P 07015 basically saying it was it speed sensor or connector for wiring for that speed sensor problem. Yesterday my husband installed a new conductor plate and speed sensor pin and I'll rings and we put the fluid back in just over 4 liters, although it looked like it was less than we take out. I haven't measured it yet. We test drove it late last night a few blocks and it didn't shift out of limp mode it also wont shift into other gears. I was able to shift it from Park to reverse and then reverse to drive and drive and second gear but when I go to park I can only push from drive to neutral and then have to turn the car off to put it back into Park. I'm going to measure the oil that came out when I get home and if I need to get more I will run up and get some more to put in, could that be the problem? I also had gone to the AutoZone on last night to see if they could clearly the codes and all codes cleared, so I don't have any other idea as to what could be the problem. Could it remain and let mode just from not having enough fluid? And if not it looks like I'm going to have to look into the shifter module but wouldn't the shifter module show a code if there was a problem with it?
 

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4 litres won't be enough trans fluid after a conductor plate change. You need a dip stick to check the fluid level correctly. Check it at full engine temp with engine running and in park.
Could be your brake light switch out of adjustment causing difficulty moving the shifter in and out of park. You will need to clear the transmission codes with a pro grade scanner so I don't know what auto zone have it may be ok.


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