Take it in. They may be fishing to find other work like worn suspension or such.
When you have it in ask to check for any oil leaks that may have resulted from the pressure of having 1 liter too much that they put in.

 

Interesting that you mention suspension. I just recently had an alignment done and as soon as I drove out I started hearing this knocking as if my lower ball joint is gone with this rubber "odd" sound while turning. While changing my trany fluid I noticed that my inner tie rod needs to be replaced. Bit disappointed that the guy didn't check that before. There was a small leak on the engine oil pan sensor next to the oil drain plug.

 

I don't think 1l overfill could harm anything, but fact is that modern engines are delicate instruments.
Somewhere in forum archive you can find a story about a guy who had 320 engine in ML filled with 16 l of oil and the engine run fine.

 

I wouldn't be too concerned about the dealer putting in too much oil. On my 2006 cdi the car runs just fine on 7.5 quarts. I would be most concerned about leakage in the engine rings. Diesel fuel is an oil and if some gets past the rings of your engine it will happily reside in the crankcase and lubricate the engine and other parts. Problem is when the amount gets to be too much the engine can run away where the engine runs uncontrollably until it destroys itself. Do some google searches on that. The only way to stop a run away condition is to choke off the air inlet into the engine and QUICK.

I have never heard of this happening to a Merc diesel engine but it is possible with any diesel engine. I usually hear of this with heavy duty trucks but one additional quart added by the dealer should be no issue.

 

The thing is that I have no idea how much oil was originally put in. The car run for 3 months before I discovered crap load of oil on intake, turbo and crank case oil seperator.
My concern is the turbo, carbon deposits and engine oil leaks...

 

All shops routinely overfill oils during the service.
It is not that they put too much oil, that they put per book, but they "don't have time" to drain old oil properly.
Do you still have the leaks after extraction?

 

There is no more oil over turbo or intake pipe after oil extraction.
I have not checked it for leaks as I think the best way to do it is to put some fluorescent die into the oil and then check with black light.

 

Over filling can damage rear and front oil seals .And damage the engine and clutch .
A friend of mine did just this on his ford . After a had a chat with him i can see what he had done.
The gallon tin of oil had a extra 1/4 of oil in it , just as a sales ploy . He had done the oil change himself , some times before after i told him how to go about it . He did the filter no problem .And put all the oil from the tin , plus the extra 1/4 of a tin in the engine .It cost a new engine , radiator, and new clutch .So , do stick to the righ levels on your dipstick .

 

I am from old school that advise refreshing shoot of detergents and chem pack between oil changes.
Since most of MB engines don't use oil, I fill up barely above min mark, what gives me a chance to add 1l about 5000 miles later.
$20 for those who find me a shop doing it?

 

My old w124 oil , sits in the centre of both low and high marks . And every time i change the engine oil , i refill to the same mark .

 

So I took it to the dealer and when I got the car back the estimate was $4,300 Canadian to fix potential future oil cooler leak which was addressed in 2012. They also suggested that I change my engine oil filler cap gasket and turbo oil seal. Where is turbo oil seal???

Service advisor said that even though they've overfill the engine by 1 liter this does not warrant free service on the oil leaks that were found.
Czarek

 

Update: I've decided to change the engine oil after the dealer sucked out the extra oil. I didn't know if this was too much oil that the dealer added or was it my motor dumping diesel fuel into the motor.

After 8,000km, I checked the level and it has NOT changed! So dealer did not get the level right originally

Since I had 0.5L of oil left over, I took out 0.5L out via the dipstick tube and added the leftover oil. I'm good for another 8K.

 

I will just like to say. That if i had this shody type of workmanship,, or work from any garage . Then it would be the last time i ever visit them again . For those Mercedes engines that have dip stick, they do put marks on the stick for a reason . Not for some garage mut to think its not for the oil level ,but for show. Now we dont know what damage was caused through this .Only that the owner will carry the can for repairs later on. Just hope no long term damage as been done .

 

Well. Europe has different mentality about the cars.
I don't think you will find a shop in US who will not dump the rated amount of oil into crankcase and will never look at dipstick.
And since they work with "time is money" mentality, they will never drain it all.
Long, long way from German "Langsam, langsam"

 

I tried to drain the oil by having the car's back slightly up and leaving it to drain for 1 hour. With that, it took 7.5L to reach max level on the dipstick. Had I put in the recommended amount, I would have overfilled the engine by 0.5L.

 

0.5 l will always be trap in engine cavities, valve valley and such.
Back in Europe I had manuals that would say
1- total oil capacity (applies to fill after rebuild)
2- oil change capacity.
Usually they would be 0.5 l apart, when on Ford 7.3 the difference is about 2.5l due to high pressure oil pump that doesn't drain

 

I should add the way I determined the final oil level:

1. pull the oil dip stick out.
2. crank the engine for few seconds and shut it off.
3. immediately inserted the dip stick in and check the oil level.

Apparently, that that's how you do it on OM642 as per master MB mechanic at the dealer. You want the level to be just under max mark of the dip stick.

 

You need to change your Master Technician.

The manuals are easy available on MBUSA site.
Take advantage of it.

 

You made my evening man! LOL

 

Same process for the M112, M113, M275, and OM648 engines as for the OM642. Gotta have the engine off for at lease 5 minutes before measurement.

Matter of fact, that's true of just about every car out here, isn't it?

Pardon the brusqueness, but what "master technician" gave such harebrained advice, and why? Did this person explain why such a deviance from the manual?

 

BTW I check the manual for 2014 Bluetec and when procedure of checking the level is the same, MB add a note to add 1l of oil when level is at MIN mark.
Meaning they don't want you to have oil higher than 1/2 way between the marks.

 

Cowboyt, he adjusted the level with basically engine running. His concern was with the excess oil, it always ends up in the turbo. And my turbo seal and oil seperator were covered with oil. He said to keep OM642 engine oil at max but not to overfill. Doing it his way does reduce the measured level on the dipstick vs stopping the motor for 5min and measuring then. I was just as surprised as you are as I don't recall any changes from MB headquarters i.e. they would send you a sticker to place in your manual.

 

Hmm...interesting.

Not sure about the OM642 engine, since I don't have one. But I do have an M275 and an OM648, both of which are turbocharged. Kajtek1 may be right with your engine; I'd say do it the old-school way and have the level at halfway.

 

Yeap. My plan is to change the oil after the winter cold season passes. I should have about 10k km at that point. Before the change I'll throw in a bottle treatment of Liquid Moly sludge remover, and put 7L of oil. Not sure which one at this point. I'm currently using Amsoil 5w40 229.51 spec but I've seen some great reviews on Pentosin.
I think for vehicles with sludge issues (which I suspect is a high number), it's better to have more oil, hence the mechanics suggestion.

 

Blacktone charges $25 for oil testing, not sure if the same price for Canadians, but it is still cheap comparing to