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I posted this on a Suzuki forum some years back:

Most newer Phillips screwdrivers and bits do not follow the Phillips standard closely and in fact are profiled more like the JIS spec, with one notable exception--the tip, which is too pointed tp properly engage a JIS screw head. Usually grinding or filing off a bit (no pun intended) of the tip can make them fit JIS screw quite nicely:



Here is a video (1.0 MB .wmv file) showing the improved fit (same two bits as shown above) in a JIS screw (you may have to save it to view it depending on your browser):

 

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Discussion Starter #22
Yes, I just took a couple of Phillips head screwdrivers and used my bench grinder to take off a bit of the tip. I took maybe 1mm off the tips. I noticed when putting a Phillips head screwdriver into a JIS screw, you can rock it back and forth more because the tip bottoms out before the side bits get a decent hold on the slots. My Kawasaki toolkit JIS screwdriver will not rock at a larger angle and my modified Phillips head drivers are now similar.

The JIS driver will work pretty well on a screw previously stripped using a Phillips if the screw doesn't need too much torque. Since the Phillips can't reach to the bottom of the slots, there is an unmolested bit of sidewall at the bottom that the Phillips couldn't reach.
 

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Some manufacturers make diamond coated Phillips and JIS bits that significantly reduce "camming out". I use them all the time on long deck screws--worth every penny in lost aggravation!

Here is one from Wera 110% top quality BTW:

 

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Discussion Starter #25
Why anyone would design an engine with aluminum screws is beyond comprehension.[/QUOTE said:
I’d guess that some engineer at that company figured out that the reduction in shipping weight would save a few yen over the long run. Or he had a brother in the aluminum fastener business. Maybe both.



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having been working on honda bikes for neerly 40 years, and many other brands i can atest to the to the jis engine hardware BS

as a general rule, if i dont know when the last time the philips/whatever screw has been turned i will find the tightest fitting bit and ALWAYS give it a whack with a hammer before attempting to unscrew, it has a habit of A seating the bit and B shocking the threads so it comes out first try....

btw torx bits are GREAT at removing stripped allens..and are also great for removing "euro" wheel locks IE the ones you stick a spline drive into
 

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having been working on honda bikes for neerly 40 years, and many other brands i can atest to the to the jis engine hardware BS

as a general rule, if i dont know when the last time the philips/whatever screw has been turned i will find the tightest fitting bit and ALWAYS give it a whack with a hammer before attempting to unscrew, it has a habit of A seating the bit and B shocking the threads so it comes out first try....

btw torx bits are GREAT at removing stripped allens..and are also great for removing "euro" wheel locks IE the ones you stick a spline drive into
I use the wack with a hammer on steel bolts as well. Especially M117 intake manifold bolts.
 

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I used to build crates that went to the US of A from Canada.
Robertson (square) bit screws are quite popular here.
US customers started calling and asking "What the fuck are these fucking fuck fuck screws????"
We'd FED-Ex them a couple of Robertson bits to get them going.
We then switched to Phillips screws...I still close crates with Phillips to this day.
 
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